[ShaunBlake]

Okay, I was encouraged to post pics, and I've been taking some. I've "practiced" a bit with some scrap using 6011 ~90A with my Stickmate 235AC, and here is some of my feeble efforts:

Stuck but broke right off

1st Attempt (fail).jpg (42.61 KiB) Viewed 1949 times

So I tried again:

Ugly but I couldn't break it

1st Attempt (success).jpg (55.06 KiB) Viewed 1949 times

Watched a bunch of vids, mostly Jody's and Chuck E's YouBoob vids. Added ears to my trailer gate hinge to balance it (TOTALLY unnecessary):

Sweet! I think I'm getting there

1st Weld - left top a.jpg (47.94 KiB) Viewed 1949 times

Drat, this is hard!

1st Weld - left side a.jpg (39.11 KiB) Viewed 1949 times

Started good, what went wrong?

1st Weld - left bottom a.jpg (30.05 KiB) Viewed 1949 times

The ear on the right side was about the same.

[ShaunBlake]

Welds cleaned up:

ewww... why din' it penetrate the bottom?

1st Weld - left top b.jpg (58.84 KiB) Viewed 1948 times

holy moley Batman! It got bombed out!

1st Weld - left side b.jpg (48.8 KiB) Viewed 1948 times

Other ear wasn't much better. <sob>

[PeterB]

Thank you for posting your pics!

How thick is the iron and how thick is the rod?

I am a real beginner, put in my first beads yesterday. I had some success with a 3/32" (? 2,5 mm) 7018, ran some ok beads at about 90 amps, the piece of steel is about 1/4" thick. Made a 90 degree joint to another piece of scrap metal using a thinner 6013 rod and it wasn't pretty at all, but I could not break it loose. I will grind it loose and try again some other day.
For now, I'll stick to stacking beads.

[ShaunBlake]

Next attempt was to add some supports to the 2x3 angle trailer arms for the bolt-on tongue jack.

Added 1.5x2.25 angle to 'square up' trailer arms to facilitate bolting on tongue jack

2nd Weld - tongue jack support.jpg (39.6 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

Some of these pics are badly composed and or focused - it was difficult for me to get down and arrange the shots. Very sorry about that.

Tacked the pieces, then welded them, switching from the left piece to right piece, first the top front beads, then top underside beads, then side beads, top-to-bottom:

2nd Weld - 1st bead.jpg (16.79 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

2nd Weld - 2nd bead.jpg (29.14 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

2nd Weld - 3rd bead.jpg (28.9 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

2nd Weld - 4th bead.jpg (32.4 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

2nd Weld - 5th bead.jpg (30.99 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

2nd Weld - 6th bead.jpg (36 KiB) Viewed 1940 times

I didn't get pics after scraping off the slag and wire-brushing. Haven't painted it yet, but from what I've seen in some of the threads, you guys with a little bit of experience can see all kinds of 'issues', even with the slag hiding the weld details.

I've dicked around with the amperage and found that I can only get a good strike and bead at 90A with the 6011 rods, so that's what all of my 6011 welds are run at.

Comments welcome. However, recommending that I run a pad is not necessary -- I can see the huge benefit of that practice and plan to begin pads "real soon now". <shrug> Priorities...

[Chilidawg]

I'm in the same boat. Newbie with a Lincoln stick welder. I don't have the courage to show my attempts yet.

[Otto Nobedder]

ShaunBlake,

You're getting there...

The impression I get from your pictures is: You are having a challenge seeing the difference between the puddle and the slag. This is making you move too fast (which is why you're not tied in to both sides for the entire weld). You need to slow down a bit. You need to watch the puddle, not the arc, so you can know the difference.

It's easy to focus on the arc. It's harder to focus on what's going on under/behind it. You need to see the gap fill in with metal before you move forward.

Steve S

[AKweldshop]

I need counseling after looking at those pics.

[weldin mike 27]

In fairness to the newby, John, you're probably going to need therapy anyway. I know I do.

[ShaunBlake]

Thank you for posting your pics!
How thick is the iron and how thick is the rod?

Duh! Mostly 1/8". The "ears" were 1/4", very rusty/scaly. I used Chicago Electric 6011 3/16" rods.

[AKweldshop]

Thank you for posting your pics!
How thick is the iron and how thick is the rod?

Duh! Mostly 1/8". The "ears" were 1/4", very rusty/scaly. I used Chicago Electric 6011 3/16" rods.

3/32"?

If so, 90amps is too much.
Try 70....

[ShaunBlake]

...
You are having a challenge seeing the difference between the puddle and the slag. This is making you move too fast (which is why you're not tied in to both sides for the entire weld). You need to slow down a bit. You need to watch the puddle, not the arc, so you can know the difference.

OhNo (sorry, Steve), I knew you guys would be able to see all kinds of things and identify the causes with just a glance. I've read in WTnT and seen in Jody's, Chuck E's, and other's vids about slowing down, and about "watching the puddle". I actually focus on the puddle more (which contributes to my long-arcing so much); what messes me up is it seems that about the time the puddle seems to fill, one or both of the edges suddenly dissolves (blown out?). Yep, I do jerk the arc then, and when I try to move it back into the puddle, it either blows out for sure, or gets a big inclusion.

It doesn't help that I'm in an awkward position (but even my flat welds suck, so I can't totally blame that). I really need to run some pads

... It's easy to focus on the arc. It's harder to focus on what's going on under/behind it. You need to see the gap fill in with metal before you move forward.

Yep, I get it. I'm going to really tune in to that puddle and learn how to work it.

Thank you!

[ShaunBlake]

I need counseling after looking at those pics.

If I wasn't laughing so hard, I'd pour ice water down your neck!

[Otto Nobedder]

If I wasn't laughing so hard, I'd pour ice water down your neck!

He's in Alaska. He might not notice...

Steve S

[Coldman]

Go polar bears!

[Louie1961]

I would practice on a flat plate before trying horizontal or vertical welds as you have. I also wouldn't choose 6011 as the rod to learn with. Try some 7014 first. you can drag the rod on the plate and not have to worry about arc length, it takes care of it automatically.

[ShaunBlake]

Thank you for posting your pics!
How thick is the iron and how thick is the rod?

Duh! Mostly 1/8". The "ears" were 1/4", very rusty/scaly. I used Chicago Electric 6011 3/16" rods.

3/32"?

If so, 90amps is too much.
Try 70....

Now everybody here knows that I've lost my mind. <sigh> Yes, 3/32".

First, thank you; I'll start over, with your suggestion as my guide.

Secondly, I started with lower amperage (I'm guessing ~70 or 75A) and had so much sticking, spatter, etc. that I thought the amperage was too low. (I was using pretty clean scrap, and some new stuff with mill scale, all of which I cleaned with a grinder.) With all my difficulty, I checked the recommended ranges (conveniently displayed on the top of the Stickmate), but carefully selected the settings for 1/8" rods -- and reconfirmed the recommended range several times.

[ShaunBlake]

I would practice on a flat plate before trying horizontal or vertical welds as you have. I also wouldn't choose 6011 as the rod to learn with. Try some 7014 first. you can drag the rod on the plate and not have to worry about arc length, it takes care of it automatically.

I've burned a few 7014s and really like them. I've been using the 6011s because right now I'm trying to rehab my utility trailer and it's pretty old and very rough. My thought was that the deeper penetration would help a little to save my poor technique. And maybe I was being a little lazy, trying to minimize the prep I'd have to do on this crappy frame.

All that being said, I am a true believer in the need to run some pads.

[TRACKRANGER]

I got the impression that the O/P is long arcing.

Shaun, try holding a tighter, shorter arc.
With that size material I would go for 1/8" electrodes (10g) at closer to 120 amps and see if you get the feel for holding a tighter arc better. You'll get there.

Get yourself into a comfortable position. Don't be afraid to lean against something that can help you hold the electrode steady.

Chip of all of the slag, grind out any slag inclusions, and place a cap pass over what you've already undertaken.

Keep at it. Practice makes perfect

[Louie1961]

Yeah, he is long arcing as well as running too hot.

My thought was that the deeper penetration would help a little to save my poor technique.

Quite the opposite I think. Not to pick on you but if those welds are expected to hold any weight, you need to grind them all out and start again. 7014 would be a much better choice, just drag it across the plate slowly without worrying about arc gap. If the amps are set correctly it can almost weld itself. THAT will do more to help your technique. Jody has a video where he puts a 7014 in stinger, lays the whole thing on the table and it literally welds itself.

[ShaunBlake]

Thanks, gents! I'm thinking of all the things that have been pointed out and it's helping -- but you wouldn't think so to see my welds. When I get the puddle right, the line curves; when I get it straightened, I've gotten an inclusion, etc., etc.

I cut up four 5" pieces of a nasty 1-1/4x1/4" bar that I salvaged; ground them down pretty clean; tacked them up and welded them up with the 7014s. As you say, it is very sweet. My thought was to work on getting the 6011 going using the proper amperage, then use the pad to practice with the 6011s. However, the problems I created when fabbing the pad make me think I need to get the fundamentals down, and I will create the right muscle memory sooner with the easier rod. So tomorrow I want to dedicate as much time as possible sitting down and working on running beads.

Again, thank you all.

And I think I should say that I can take ragging pretty well, and I receive criticism, even harsh criticism, with humility and appreciation. Sometimes folks just can't get the message until they experience the 2x4 wake-up call -- I'm becoming aware of a tendency toward that.

[ShaunBlake]

So creating the pad added additional evidence that some serious practice is needed. It also prompted the thought that all the advice I've gotten seems to have fallen on deaf ears. Sadly, after running a dozen beds, the student will prolly be classified as learning disabled and sent to play with the Nerf toys.

Tacked, then welded two 1-1/4 x 5 x 1/4" bars

Fab 1.jpg (95.93 KiB) Viewed 1386 times

Fab 2.jpg (96.8 KiB) Viewed 1386 times

Then two more, and joined the two

Fab 4.jpg (84.77 KiB) Viewed 1386 times

Then tacked it to my trailer ramp so I could run some beads

Pad assembled.jpg (98.35 KiB) Viewed 1386 times

Twisted it so I could rest my elbow on the ramp, and clasp my hands in prayer.

[ShaunBlake]

I don't have words to express my disappointment. I've been given some great advice and encouragement, and I realize that becoming proficient will take considerable practice. However, it seems that I'm unable to do anything that you folks have told me.

From the start, I had trouble striking an arc. I used 1/8" 7014s (I got AKweldshop's recommendation to use nothing bigger than 3/32s but I only have one box of 7014s) and adjusted the amperage to 110A, and was getting nothing but sticking. Cranked it up to about 125A and was able to strike an arc - sometimes. (Once hot, I could re-strike, but of course, then I was welding over slag. <sigh>) Anyway, I didn't dick around with the amperage any more, just tried to lay down some small, uniform stacked beads. What a joke!

I'll only post a few of the pics; I think prolly the first and last would tell you chapter and verse anyway.

Followed Jody's advice in his pads tutorial, and ran ... er, tried to run my first bead along the edge, and tried to overlap each bead by a third with the subsequent bead. My first bead ran off the top of the pad, and the next couple merged into the other lanes.

Pad 02b.jpg (150.27 KiB) Viewed 1385 times

"Officer, I swear, I have had nothing to drink but coffee and water!"

Pad 06b.jpg (181.66 KiB) Viewed 1385 times

I really thought I was on the edge of the bead.

Pad 13b.jpg (128.3 KiB) Viewed 1385 times

"Th-th-that's all, folks!"

[Coldman]

We were all there at some time. Keep up the practice, it doesn't come together after a dozen beads.
In a couple of months you will wonder what all the worrying was about.

[Louie1961]

Actually, you may not see it, but those beads are an improvement over your first pictures. You are going in the right direction. I think you need more amps with those 7014's. I run them about 135-140 amps on my machine. Stick to the high end of the manufacturer's amp range. Once you get your arc lit LET THE ROD DRAG RIGHT ON THE PLATE. Do not try to maintain any kind of arc gap, it is not required with 7014. After that it is all rod angle and speed of progression. don't angle the rod too much. Keep it within 20 degrees of perpendicular to the plate. Move the puddle forward more slowly. You'll get there.

[Boomer63]

Especially on the older, more rusty material, use your 6011 1/8" rod. Brush, grind and otherwise clean your metal before hand. As you practice work on achieving consistency, and an even look. As you watch various video, pay close attention to the rod ANGLES that different folks use. That is so second nature to welders that most guys don't think about it, but it is really important. One last thing ... there is a lot that ChuckE gets wrong, but one thing he gets right is that he is noob and he (sometimes) seems to know it. I am not a fan of his stuff, but some of my students are - I think because they are closer together in skill level.

Keep practicing!
Gary

PS - Should the issue of 'therapy'; and a lot of seem to need it!! Be on a separate thread?