Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
I have an older jeep and busted the rear shock mount. I have access to a stick welder but was thinking this won't be the last project... so in my research here and the website I was thinking about a decent mig rig for the job. I also have some rust on the driver side by the seat belt bolt underneath that would require be to do on my back so thought both options would get used. Essentially what to use where? I know I have to cut off and grind down the old mount and I have the replacements on the way...
- Attachments
-
- bustedmount.jpg (55.95 KiB) Viewed 1506 times
- AKweldshop
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Wed Oct 23, 2013 3:30 pm
-
Location:Palmer AK
How skilled are you at out of position smaw ?
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
This may sound duh but remove everything you can to make life easier.
A fire blanket or at least some fiberglass cloth from the auto parts store
will keep things like your legs or "your fellers" from getting burnt.
Also, if possible, sandblasting the repair area of the frame can be really
helpful in getting good, clean welds.
A fire blanket or at least some fiberglass cloth from the auto parts store
will keep things like your legs or "your fellers" from getting burnt.
Also, if possible, sandblasting the repair area of the frame can be really
helpful in getting good, clean welds.
Haven't done out of position welding but I was thinking a MIG might make the task easier. Sounds like the best thing for the out of position needs is practice. I don't have a MIG but was considering buying one for these types of issues. I finally got the jeep out to my shop yesterday which is about 20 miles from the house. I have a small sandblasting unit that I was considering using to clean up the areas but may just do the whole frame if i can weld in what I need and seal it all up. I want to replace both the mounts and on the other side is the fuel and brakelines so I may just pull the tub after all and that should give me the room and it would take out the over the head stuff. I like the idea though of the blanket to protect me though... Thanks guys.
something like this.... http://weldingdirect.com/twmifmigwegu.html?massacre wrote:A flexible-head MIG torch might help in that position?
Man things have changed a lot in 20 years!
In case this helps I have other pics here
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/93-i ... ndex6.html
Also from a removal standpoint the shock is out. I plan on dropping the rear end and the whole exhaust since replacement will be coming in March. I think it will be safer to go ahead an pull the tank and the fuel line to avoid any issues. If I don't take the tub completely off I should have enough room this way to get it done right.
Another thought for close quarters with the smaw option would be to practice but never burn past half the rod. If I need the practice anyway...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/93-i ... ndex6.html
Also from a removal standpoint the shock is out. I plan on dropping the rear end and the whole exhaust since replacement will be coming in March. I think it will be safer to go ahead an pull the tank and the fuel line to avoid any issues. If I don't take the tub completely off I should have enough room this way to get it done right.
Another thought for close quarters with the smaw option would be to practice but never burn past half the rod. If I need the practice anyway...
So once I get everything cleaned up and cleared out which will take me a few weekends 7014 rods was what I was going to use. I plan on picking up a 5lb tube and practicing on some scrap to get back in the swing. I think I will use the fire blanket idea and use a small metal table I have and also practice welding from the floor to get some out of position practice in. Thanks for the input guys.
Possibly. I still need to get a lot torn down to see the larger picture.steeldr. wrote:Might want to take to a weld shop, or muffler shop to do the welding, they have all the equipment and experience. Could be cheaper in the long run, and should have a warranty......ron
One frame mount is on. I practiced with a some test steel to get the settings right on the welder. In the end used Hobart 7014 rods. I also bought a Everlast SuperUltra 205 3 in 1. It works great on the stick side and the plasma cutter. I still have the powerkart and I have used that work some other work like fixing the bucket on tractor.... I watched a lot of the videos from Jody and great advice from searching the forum. Thanks again.
Return to “Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding”
Jump to
- Introductions & How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Welcome!
- ↳ Member Introductions
- ↳ How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Moderator Applications
- Welding Discussion
- ↳ Metal Cutting
- ↳ Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding
- ↳ Mig and Flux Core - gas metal arc welding & flux cored arc welding
- ↳ Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding
- ↳ Welding Forum General Shop Talk
- ↳ Welding Certification - Stick/Arc Welding, Tig Welding, Mig Welding Certification tests - Welding Tests of all kinds
- ↳ Welding Projects - Welding project Ideas - Welding project plans
- ↳ Product Reviews
- ↳ Fuel Gas Heating
- Welding Tips & Tricks
- ↳ Video Discussion
- ↳ Wish List
- Announcements & Feedback
- ↳ Forum News
- ↳ Suggestions, Feedback and Support
- Welding Marketplace
- ↳ Welding Jobs - Industrial Welding Jobs - Pipe Welding Jobs - Tig Welding Jobs
- ↳ Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade Used Welding Equipment
- Welding Resources
- ↳ Tradeshows, Seminars and Events
- ↳ The Welding Library
- ↳ Education Opportunities