[Jawon]

Newbie. Been mildly successful practicing beads as well as butt joints of thin sheet metal with 6013 dcen.

I'm moving on to practicing T-joints and that feels a lot harder because I can't get the puddle right into the corner. Conceptually, I'd guess it would be easier than butt joints. I have tried both 1/16 and 3/32... have heard the smaller rods will get into the joint better but am having no luck with either.

Another complication is that ultimately (not now), I'm hoping to weld different thicknesses for this T-joint. Maybe 19 gauge with 1/8".

Any tips, warnings, words of encouragement?

[weldin mike 27]

First off youll do better with DCep. or even ac . Other than that, its simple refinement of skill. Ive found that 6013s run better with a slightly longer arc, that allows you to wiggle the rod a little (like a natural shake of the body) it helps the bead form when doing fillets.

Mick

[MinnesotaDave]

Never weld metal that is thinner than the rod.

For 6013, 7014, 7018, I run fillet welds with the flux touching on both sides.

Turn the amps up until the arc force keeps the slag at bay - then it's a simple drag for the first pass.

For 1/8" Washington Alloy 6013, I like 130-135 amps DC+ or AC.

I know it works on DC- too, for slightly less penetration on thin metal, I've just never used it.

Also, 19 gauge is really thin, around 0.043" - this is not something you want to weld with stick.

Stay 11 gauge and heavier - you'll be a lot happier

[Jawon]

19 gauge is really thin, around 0.043" - this is not something you want to weld with stick.

I realize this is not ideal but it seems there are plenty of people (maybe old schoolers) who say go for it. I know it is delicate and has to be done a little at a time so as not to warp and/or blow thru, but I'm getting the hang of it. Just gotta take it nice and slow. And I'm not in a position to go shopping for a mig. Anyway thanks for the tips on the t joints. More welcome.