[Bill Beauregard]

Am I mistaken that 7018 was developed as a pipeline electrode? Those welders make bad rod seem good, not to mention the skill of the weldors using them.

[MinnesotaDave]

Am I mistaken that 7018 was developed as a pipeline electrode? Those welders make bad rod seem good, not to mention the skill of the weldors using them.

I'm not sure who they were developed for but you are certainly right when you say pros make bad rods look fine

For AC only welders, I like 7014. 6013 is fine with me too.
Back in the early 90's Washington Alloy had really smooth running 6013 rods that I used a lot.
Have not checked them lately but their 7018 rods run well for me and are always in stock at my local L&M Fleet store.
I do not care for the current Hobart 6013 as much, spatter a lot, but run ok.

If it were me, and my AC welder didn't like 7018AC, I'd run 7014 and not look back

[rake]

I tried the 7018 AC rods and found that they run much better on DC.

+1 on just use something else.

[sling-it]

Did you check with a voltmeter to determine which tap gives you the highest OCV?

I've noticed on past AC units I've had that the low tap has a higher OCV than the high tap.
As a result, the rods light easier and run better with less pop-outs (arc goes out).
The owners manuals have also stated to use the low range until the high range is needed - when the volt/amp curves are given, the differences are obvious.
Good luck!

My welder is actually housed elsewhere, so I've not looked at it yet. I might be able to try the 3/32 rods on med, but I don't think the amperage is there for 1/8. In any case, I found a box of Lincoln rods that will get a try soon. They do ad on the box square burn off, and that seems to be my problem, so my fingers are crossed.

[kermdawg]

I tried the 7018 AC rods and found that they run much better on DC.

+1 on just use something else.

Every rod runs better on dc. Cept maybe 6013

[sling-it]

I tried the 7018 AC rods and found that they run much better on DC.

hmmm, can you point out the DC switch?

[rake]

I tried the 7018 AC rods and found that they run much better on DC.

hmmm, can you point out the DC switch?

If you're gonna quote me then put the whole thing up.
I was referring to the AC 7018 rods actually run better on DC and you should try other rods more suitable
to that machine like 7014.

[sling-it]

If you're gonna quote me then put the whole thing up.
I was referring to the AC 7018 rods actually run better on DC and you should try other rods more suitable
to that machine like 7014.

Rake, you apparently didn't catch the at the end. I wish I had the newer equipment...then again, I'm glad I have my grandfathers equipment.

I've been running 7014, 6011, etc. I just want a better weld available to me. An AC rod should run on AC. It's as simple as that. I'm just wanting to know why it won't. I'm finally starting to piece things together now. Inverters must run more voltage than the old transformers, and not all rods are created equal when it comes to this difference.

If these Lincolns run good, I'll feel a lot more confident that the new D rings will stay on my trailer for starters.

[rake]

You could always scourer ebay for some large diodes and build yourself a rectifier.
Then grandpa's ole buzz box could run on DC as well.

[Bill Beauregard]

On a machine like yours the arc dies 120 times per second. As voltage returns, current must be reestablished. Rods made specifically for AC will have stabilizers in the flux to maintain or stabilize the between voltage arc. Air is a poor conductor of electricity, the gap would be very tight if it weren't for flux. As flux burns, a gas that can be easily ionized is produced. Ionized gas (atoms unstable with either too many or few electrons) conducts electricity easily. A specialized flux for AC will help.

[wheresmejumper]

6011 are harder to run than an AC7018, so if theyre going fine id say your lohys are shite.buy some fresh ones

[sling-it]

You could always scourer ebay for some large diodes and build yourself a rectifier.
Then grandpa's ole buzz box could run on DC as well.

I just wish I knew this stuff well enough. I think it would be fun to custom build a setup of some kind.

6011 are harder to run than an AC7018, so if theyre going fine id say your lohys are shite.buy some fresh ones

Well I guess that explains a lot. Walmart should have it.........

[grafted]

Last time I looked wal-mart they did not have the 7018 rod made specifically for AC. Try Lowes or Home depot they both carry the 7018 AC rods and they usually have 1/8 and 3/32. They do all work better on DC.

Tom

[Otto Nobedder]

I don't buy steaks at Wal-Mart. I don't buy tools at Big Lots. Why but welding supplies from a "home center" like Lowes? Find and get to know your local welding supplier. If you're a freindly fellow, you can talk them out of free samples of the rods you want in the various brands they carry.

Remember, Home Depot and Tractor Supply are box stores... How long have those off-brand Chinese welding rods (Yeah I know what "brand" is on them...) been hanging there? How many serious welders are burning up those rods, making them rotate stock?

It's been said, "It's a poor carpenter who blames the nail", but if the nail is crap, the best hammer in the best hands can't help it.

Take the variables out. Use the best machine you can afford, and the best & freshest rods you can afford. Then, the problems you see are in your practice, and you can work on them.

Steve S

[sling-it]

Guys, I was referring to the term lohys... ......apparently humor doesn't translate well on here. My bad.


Seriously though Steve, I get what you're saying. I'm the same way normally. With that being said though, even 10 lbs of rod will become old stock in my hands. Since I revived this welder, I think it's run about 3 lbs of rod in the last two years. So, although relatively expensive in the short run, the Hobart job packs allow me to experiment without owning 40 lbs of rod that I can't afford to just burn up as practice. D rings on my trailer are the latest excuse to fire up the old buzz box. I just hope I can keep finding uses for it.

[sling-it]

Well, that solved it. Lincoln 7018AC ran about as good as anything else I've run. Heck, I think I like it better than 7014 even. Ran some really nice looking welds (ok, a couple weren't that pretty, but they were solid). Rods welded quite nicely at about 115 - 120 amps. Easy starts and limited sticks (still getting used to striking instead of pecking).

When done welding, I looked at the tip, and the flux had burned off flush with the rod, where the Hobart had burned up into the flux. Problem solved. There IS a difference. I'm glad I'm not crazy...it was starting to become a question.

[AKweldshop]

I'm glad for you!!!

7018AC is a great invention for buzz-boxes....

[MinnesotaDave]

Excellent news! Nothing worse than knowing you're doing it right and having something unknown going wrong to make you question your own skills.

[sling-it]

One thing I did notice - The flux is a LOT more fragile than the other rods I'm used to. These things don't like being roughed up at all. I have no idea how I knocked the flux coating off of 2 inches of the top of one of the rods.

[AKweldshop]

One thing I did notice - The flux is a LOT more fragile than the other rods I'm used to. These things don't like being roughed up at all. I have no idea how I knocked the flux coating off of 2 inches of the top of one of the rods.

rod oven.
Or can you pick up an old toaster oven a garage sale for a few bucks??

Pack it full, and put it on bake....

~John

[Otto Nobedder]

A rod oven is a usefull thing for 7018,

But that flux will still be the most fragile of all the common rods. It crumbles when the rod is bent, leading to a common prank on green welders and helpers, betting them they can't bend a handfull around their necks... When the flux crumbles down their sweaty backs...

The easiest way to restart a 7018 (since the flux likes to "glass over" the rod tip when you stop) is to keep a coarse file or a brick handy, and scrub the tip across it to break the slag and expose bare metal. However, the fragile nature of the flux will sometimes leave you with a half-inch of bare rod exposed. Here, strike up on the previous weld and long-arc it until the bare metal burns off, then go back to welding (not approved for most pipe welds; get a new rod, but works fine for most welds).

Steve S

[MinnesotaDave]

A rod oven is a usefull thing for 7018,

But that flux will still be the most fragile of all the common rods. It crumbles when the rod is bent, leading to a common prank on green welders and helpers, betting them they can't bend a handfull around their necks... When the flux crumbles down their sweaty backs...

The easiest way to restart a 7018 (since the flux likes to "glass over" the rod tip when you stop) is to keep a coarse file or a brick handy, and scrub the tip across it to break the slag and expose bare metal. However, the fragile nature of the flux will sometimes leave you with a half-inch of bare rod exposed. Here, strike up on the previous weld and long-arc it until the bare metal burns off, then go back to welding (not approved for most pipe welds; get a new rod, but works fine for most welds).

Steve S

Using the file works awesome, I had never heard of it until Jody mentioned it in a video.
Now I keep the file sticking out of the stub can.
Can't believe I didn't think of it myself before.....

My kids think the welders helper joke videos are hilarious

[Bill Beauregard]

I'm obtuse. What welder's helper?

[Otto Nobedder]

I'm obtuse. What welder's helper?

On an industrial or major commercial job, a welder will have a "helper" assigned to him. Usually someone who wants to weld in the trades, learning from a more experienced hand. Usually relegated to dumb work, like pulling leads, fetching rods, sweeping up, other general labor, but an easy way to meet people in the industry and advance your name.

Steve S

[weldin mike 27]

In Aus they are refered to as a Trade Assistant or TA:-).

Mick