Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Post Reply
camlott55
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:44 pm

Any help or advice would be appreciated. ..
6010 at about 95 amps..
Attachments
20140121_140858.jpg
20140121_140858.jpg (59.25 KiB) Viewed 1128 times
lazerbeam
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:50 am
  • Location:
    North Carolina

Rate of travel and arc length seem to be the main issues. Are you whipping and pausing?
camlott55
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:44 pm

Yes sir
lazerbeam
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:50 am
  • Location:
    North Carolina

Keep your arc length consistently tight and watch the edges of your puddle. That will tell you when to whip and how long to pause. BTW your beads are solid, just a little fine tuning needed.
camlott55
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:44 pm

Thankyu man I been welding now for about 5 days so any help is appreciated. .
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:06 pm
  • Location:
    Elizabeth, WV

I am in an agriculture education program in college and we have to take a few welding classes for our teaching certification and I have never ran 6010's or 6011's until I came up here. I have welded for about 10 years now but that was the most difficult to me because I didn't know that they looked like that until after the class was over. Like he said travel speed and arc length. When I teach people to weld the one thing I tell them is to watch the puddle and don't move on until it is as wide as the rest of the weld. If the puddle is as wide as the weld then it will be consistent and not as sloppy. That is just the first thing to work on. Of course there is penetration and other factors to consider but if you follow that basic rule then for the most part the weld will be uniform. Good luck.
Matt
It's always best to build your own, especially when it comes to hitches!!!
Matt
lazerbeam
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:50 am
  • Location:
    North Carolina

Matt, please remember to use 6011, 6010's when you are teaching in your shop after you graduate. I have fought against 6013's being the all purpose rod for Ag. mechanics since 1978 and finally got a few other Ag. teachers on my side. I taught Ag. Mechanics for 32 yrs. in N.C. and now I teach welding part time at a community college. Good luck on your teaching career.

Kevin
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:06 pm
  • Location:
    Elizabeth, WV

Thanks Kevin, I definitely will use 6010 and 6011 in my shop class. I started with 6013 and 7018 and was never exposed to 6010 or 11. After that class I hate running 6013 and refuse to run them. My brother-in-law gave me a 50 pound can of 6011's from where he works that they were throwing away and I have ran them around the farm ever since then and they have been better than the 6013's I was running. I feel that they are not a great starter rod because they are not widely used other than by the farmer. I also disagree with starting someone out on Mig. They teach us up here to start the students out on Mig since it is easier and then work our way up to stick then if we have the equipment, Tig. I disagree totally with that. I learned stick and oxy-acetelene weld 10 years ago, taught myself how to Mig weld about 6 years ago and just recently after watching every video Jody makes sat down and taught myself how to Tig weld on aluminum and steel. I feel that I benefited a lot from starting with stick and it makes me appreciate Mig more when I use it but I love to stick weld. If I had the choice of how to weld something, I would choose Tig, then stick, then mig and finally oxy. Sorry for the drawn out reply and getting off topic but I really like 6010 and 11.
Matt
It's always best to build your own, especially when it comes to hitches!!!
Matt
Post Reply