[ZKR]

Hey,
I got to get quite good uniform welds with 7018, the problem is HOW TO START THEM ?
I don`t mean restarting, I know the head trim trick, I talk about just getting it to start without sticking to the surface, it`s very hard for me, don`t know why.
I need to weld overhead, in case it matters.

Suggestions someone?

[Follow da blue light]

I recently used one of them inverter welding machines with low hydrogen rods, the rods dont stick at all, re starting the rod is a breeze too.
These welders are not much bigger than a lunch box. they cost about $400


https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/index. ... Capacity__

[Nils]

Are you using AC or DC? I had an old Lincoln AC welder that did not like starting 7018. If it is AC, are you using the 7018AC rod? Other than that, crank it up.

[ZKR]

It`s DC. If I crack it up it burns the metal rod too much.

[noddybrian]

Just a thought - check the open circuit voltage - most 7018 don't like to start ( or run nice ) under 70volts - if that's OK maybe you got a batch of bad quality rods - could be worth trying another pack of rods- or even a different brand - don't know whats available where you are - new rods come and go - people rave about some of them initially but plain old Esab Unitrode ( 48.00 ) is still a reliable rod in almost any position ( except vertical down obviously )

[ZKR]

I might try it, but then I have to order 20 kg, which I`d have no use for.
The only international brand in my are is Kiswel.

Still hoping for a better technique.

[matt1223]

I might try it, but then I have to order 20 kg, which I`d have no use for.
The only international brand in my are is Kiswel.

Still hoping for a better technique.

When you start go one inch ahead of where you want the actual weld to start and just drag it back to the starting point. as long as it just has an arc strike not really making a puddle or anything its fine to weld back over. when I start with it on vertical especially I always go up a little then quickly drag it along the joint then weld upward. I don't know the joint you're welding or what you are doing it for but that's just something you could try out. I also know some machines that also have a tig function can have I think its called a hot start where you can have it start with more amps then it goes down to the setting you selected, etc set it to say 105 amps it may start at 120 for a fraction of a second then go back down. Its not made for stick but I have seen people do it with good results. It stops the sticking of the electrode since when it firsts arcs it is hotter and cant stick. Hope something helps you out.

[Vince51]

Hood time will make the biggest difference. Been welding for 15 years and still stick a rod here and there. It's an old Indian trick you know haha

[lazerbeam]

Hot start is made for stick welding and it will help if you have it on your machine. I make my students turn it off when learning to strike an arc because it can become a crutch for bad technique. Lighting up any stick electrode is a touch thing and 7018's require a little more finesse. I have noticed that about one third of my students pick it up quickly and one third struggle and little and then get it but about one third really struggle a lot and stick rods way past when they should have it down. It is easy for me to demonstrate but impossible to teach the proper touch to light up.

Practice, Practice, Practice

[ZKR]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Don`t have the hot start on my machine. I was told to weld with the coldest possible amps.
The electrode is 75-100 so I set it to 75-80.
I noticed that after I weld a bit and it turns off, it`s quite east to restrike it if I do it right away, and if it didn`t receive the cap around it.
It makes sense because it`s when the metal is hotter.

The problem is, I don`t want to connect the the restarted weld to the one that got several seconds to cool, because the slag has already been formed on it.

[jwmacawful]

Hood time will make the biggest difference. Been welding for 15 years and still stick a rod here and there. It's an old Indian trick you know haha

been welding almost 3x that and guess what? if i'm not paying attention the rod will stick. it comes with the territory. why do you think they call it "stick welding" haha. vince is right- hood time makes all the difference.

[Stirmind]

I just got an auto darkening helmet for the 1st time and couldn't figure out why I was getting an extra twitch before starting each weld, resulting in a couple of sticks. Then I remembered I already have my hood down and don't need to flip my head forward to get it to drop, LOL!

Felt like the total noob until I figured it out though, so don't lose hope man. Another thing you might try when striking your arc is to hold the rod with your forefinger and stabilize it, because the thinner rods flex allot more and it may help you to gain consistency in forming the proper arc length before you can bear down a little.

Of course to keep you fingers cool use either a nice thick set of gloves...or a Tig Finger, LOL! I just used mine to cap a couple of ugly welds on the trailer I'm building, and 3/32" 7018s like to bend a little when you start them if you aren't propped up and steady.

I say turn it up a smidge and run it

[lazerbeam]

One more thing. Whoever told you to weld on the coldest possible setting misinformed you. You need to weld with the correct amperage for adequate penetration and bead profile. The proper amperage will also make the rods easier to start. I prefer to weld on the edge of being too hot rather than the other way around.

[MinnesotaDave]

One more thing. Whoever told you to weld on the coldest possible setting misinformed you. You need to weld with the correct amperage for adequate penetration and bead profile. The proper amperage will also make the rods easier to start. I prefer to weld on the edge of being too hot rather than the other way around.

Yep - agree with all of this. Turn it up and let it eat

Makes most issues people have with stick welding go away, in my opinion.

[Stirmind]

One more thing. Whoever told you to weld on the coldest possible setting misinformed you. You need to weld with the correct amperage for adequate penetration and bead profile. The proper amperage will also make the rods easier to start. I prefer to weld on the edge of being too hot rather than the other way around.

+1

[Otto Nobedder]

One more thing. Whoever told you to weld on the coldest possible setting misinformed you. You need to weld with the correct amperage for adequate penetration and bead profile. The proper amperage will also make the rods easier to start. I prefer to weld on the edge of being too hot rather than the other way around.

Okay, to quote this post again...

I learned to work 105A for 1/8", period.

I can lay in a 1/8" 6010 root in any position at 105A, and fill/cap it with 1/8" 7018 at the same 105A. When your machine is in the next building, with 75' of stairs down and up each way, and they don't give you a helper...

105A is hot for 1/8" 6010, and just a little cool for 7018...

Steve S

[jwmacawful]

One more thing. Whoever told you to weld on the coldest possible setting misinformed you. You need to weld with the correct amperage for adequate penetration and bead profile. The proper amperage will also make the rods easier to start. I prefer to weld on the edge of being too hot rather than the other way around.

Okay, to quote this post again...

I learned to work 105A for 1/8", period.

I can lay in a 1/8" 6010 root in any position at 105A, and fill/cap it with 1/8" 7018 at the same 105A. When your machine is in the next building, with 75' of stairs down and up each way, and they don't give you a helper...

105A is hot for 1/8" 6010, and just a little cool for 7018...

Steve S

yikes steve! 105 amps for a 1/8 7018 and the machine is at least 75 feet away? that's not just a little cool it's freezing. the heat from those previous 6010 passes must have heated the work-piece just enough to get fusion. granted, my shop machine is right behind me with 50 ft of lead and about 10 ft of ground and i run a 1/8th 7018 at 150 amps. btw, working long distances from the machine without a helper is the worst!! i feel for you!

[jwmacawful]

One more thing. Whoever told you to weld on the coldest possible setting misinformed you. You need to weld with the correct amperage for adequate penetration and bead profile. The proper amperage will also make the rods easier to start. I prefer to weld on the edge of being too hot rather than the other way around.

Yep - agree with all of this. Turn it up and let it eat

Makes most issues people have with stick welding go away, in my opinion.

could be he's confusing mild steel with the technique of welding stainless steel with the lowest machine settings while still maintaining proper penetration?

[SUBMAN719]

I agree with "HOOD TIME"!... just get that big batch of rods and practice, practice, practice! That's how I got better with 7018! Bought a 50 pound can of Lincoln Excalibur 7018 MR and tried different amp settings, rod positions/angles and metal thicknesses until I figured out what works and what doesn't. I start with the middle of the road on the amp settings and go from there one way or the other. I also bought a small portable rod oven just in case!

[AKweldshop]

@ ZKR, you were saying that if you turned your welder up,you were burning holes in your base metal. What thicknes of metal are you trying to weld? It also matters what weld joint your trying to weld lap/tee/butt joint . Thanks John

[AKweldshop]

It`s DC. If I crack it up it burns the metal rod too much.

what thickness of metal are you trying to weld? And what size rod are you using? John