Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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Try a flat lock seam and then solder it.
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Hey,

Was also thinking about soldering. An air lpg soldering iron couldnt be to expensive.

Mick
qwerty12
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    Sun Mar 10, 2013 4:38 pm

I have a soldering gun like this one on picture:
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips6/too ... ng_gun.jpg

Could that do the trtick?
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Hey,

That is a soldering iron for electrical work, sadly not suitable for sheet metal fabrication. The ones we talk about are a large copper block heated by a flame or heated in a furnace. Or simply a butane blow torch.

Here is a technique you could investigate.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0crQoDV33U

or a flame like this one, can be bought at most hardware stores.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-rfwRsQhcg

I hope i have not confused you. I dont know much about soldering.

Mick
qwerty12
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I will try to do it with my ac. Maybe just need to practise more.

One thing I noticed... it blows less when I use larger electrode. With 2mm electrode arc is easy to start buth it goes trought metal. And 2.5 electrde is hard to start buth les burn trought does. Maybe because 55 amerage cant warm 2.5mm rod so much so it does not burns.

Will try to buy 1.5mm electrodes tomorow(I just have 2mm,2.5mm,3.2mm) and to see whats happening with 1.5mm

Cant practise today my eyes hurt like hell from yesterday practising. :oops:
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Hey,

A common problem with thin metal is that you start welding and think its good so keep going then it all melts. Just try to weld 10- 15 mm spots,(almost start then stop right away) that way hopfully it wont get hot enough to burn through.

Good luck
Mick
Alexa
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Qwerty12.

While practicing, try to simply drag the electrode along the edged piece of the lap joint. Play with adjusting your travel angle and the speed of travel. If it works, you will not need to worry about holding a consistent arc length. Aim the rod more at the flat surface and less at the edged sheet.

Alexa
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Please let me chime in on the discussion regarding Qwerty12's problem.

I have spent enormous time practicing on thin sheet metals and have spent about 8kg of 6013 1/8 and 3/32 rods on 1.0 mm to 14 gauge sheets. Used my 300 amps AC welder that can go low as much as only 60 amps. It was really very difficult to deposit or maintain a good weld bead and for sure burn through will occur on the metal and joints. Anyway to be able to attain a good bead, you will need to train your arms and wrist to control the deposit of the bead and not to apply excessive heat on the surface specially when using an AC welder. Very much different when using a DC welder of 200 amps, it has a soft start and amperage can be lowered to as much as 20 amps. Applying weld bead is much easier on the surface or joint, applying it one bead at a time, letting the bead cool first then removing the slag and then re apply again overlapping a little the previous bead, maybe this technique would help. See also if you could use some of the 1/16" 6013 rods available at amazon.com. ;)

Is there a chance that you could put a piece of metal like copper or aluminum underneath to absorb the heat being applied on what you are welding, for sure it will help a lot. :)
qwerty12
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today bought 1.5mm electrodes

much easyer to start arch on 55 amps but burns trought the metal like hell

if I could make amperage lower than 55A it could be done much better

any idea?
Nils
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You may consider at this point a machine with a lower amp setting. The Everlast 140ST will run down to 10 amps and is a DC unit. Also runs on either 110/240. The list price is less that $300 but maybe cheaper on Amazon. Might be a good time and investment to make now?????

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Power ... 15-pd.html
Everlast PowerTig 250EX, PowerTig 185 Micro, PowerArc 160STH, Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto-Set
qwerty12
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Unfortunaly I cant aford myself new welder.

Must fight with one I have., :ugeek:
qwerty12
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Is this weld anny good?

Image

Image
Alexa
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Qwerty12.

Visually inspecting a finished weld will help reveal various aspects about how it was welded.
The longitudinal weld in the two photos showing the external and internal surfaces show various weld flaws.
It is important to identify each one and try to understand what caused each flaw.

Look at the external surface and list every flaw that you see, and do the same for the internal surface.

Afterwards, we can look at the causes of each of them.

Alexa
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Have you considered cleaning the metal, prior to welding it? The photos show some pretty oxidized metal that does not conduct electricity very well. A wire wheel or disc grinder should do a decent job of prepping the weld area. When the metal is clean, you can strike an arc at a much lower amperage. Same thing goes for your ground connection, it should be on clean metal.
qwerty12
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@Alexa sory buth I did not understood you. Is my weld anny god or totaly bad?

@WerkSpace Ofcourse I cleaned weld before welding(the place where groung goes and of each side of weld for abouth 2mm. BUth you cant see it because ower the cleaned area there is weld now.

Did not clean it to much becouse if it is cleaned to much with flex machine the metal becomes more thin and that makes more trouble :?
Drowstiq
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Hi Querty12.

Something you might want to try is making small circles when welding to lay out a even coat of new metal.
It also will probably have less burn thru because you are moving the heat around.

or maybe try another pass or two over the first weld.

from one beginner to another I think your weld is almost there.
try the circles I think it will help.

Peter.
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