Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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BetheRod
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I’m very new to stick welding, I’m ok with MIG, the problem is that I can’t strike a arc, I constantly weld the rod to my practice work. I have a OmniPro 2200 and I’m tying to use either 6010 or 7018 both 3/32. My metal is 10 gauge mild steel. I watched many videos but not being able to strike a arc is pissing me off! So can you help?
Thanks
Bazza


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You have to be gentle, don't stab at it, go with a little downward and across motion, like striking a match. On the 7018s you'll need to break the end of the flux of on restarts as the core wire burns up inside slightly.
noddybrian
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    Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm

Good chance your welder will not run 6010 at all - some 7018 especially the cheap stuff found in big box stores can be a PITA so maybe if your starting out try 7014 or 6013 till you get the hang of it or get some decent brand rod - I believe your welder is dual voltage ? if so are you running on 110 volt? it sometimes can cause low arc voltage giving poor starts - also is there any setting for hot start / arc force set incorrectly on the machine ? I'm not familiar with your welder.
BetheRod
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noddybrian wrote:Good chance your welder will not run 6010 at all - some 7018 especially the cheap stuff found in big box stores can be a PITA so maybe if your starting out try 7014 or 6013 till you get the hang of it or get some decent brand rod - I believe your welder is dual voltage ? if so are you running on 110 volt? it sometimes can cause low arc voltage giving poor starts - also is there any setting for hot start / arc force set incorrectly on the machine ? I'm not familiar with your welder.
I’m using electrodes from HF, yes cheap stuff! Yes, the OmniPro 2200 is dual Voltage and I’m using it at 220 volts
I have the Hot start and Arc Force at the default setting of HS=2 out of 10 and the AF at 0 out of ten. Are these settings correct? For 6011 I have the amps turned down to 45-50 , I’m using sheet of 10 gauge, if I turn it up any higher I get burn through. Once the bead is running I get relatively easy restarts.
I’m only really welding as a hobby, I’m 73 and always have to be doing something. I might try a course at the local college, but the start of that is someway off. I did tig there some while ago and really enjoyed it. I just love messing around with molten metal!
Thanks for your help
Bazza


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cj737
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Bazza - one trick that can help get a new welder to light up a stick rod is to drag the rod at a very flat angle to light, then straighten up once the arc is going. The flatter angle helps prevent sticking. A very light pressure, just rotate the rod upwards until the exposed core touches the base metal.
noddybrian
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Amps vary quite a bit depending on accuracy of the machine readout & rod type / brand - on my inverter I would need to be a bit higher like 60amps with 6010 but that could be the rod or the machine - worth playing - if that' appears too hot while running on your material it could be rod angle / arc length rather than just amps ? as to machine settings - these vary quite a bit so without using yours which are not sold here I can only suggest based on others to try hot start around 5 > 7 & arc force around 5 > 7 for cellulose rods & 2 > 3 on anything else - the exact effect does vary some between machines - one of mine it has fixed default settings with just a selection of rod type another has it in percent for both & one engine drive does it by having separate volts & amps controls on one - the other behaves as an inverter - I think this is the problem that an experience welder can " read " what the arc of any process is doing & adjust machine or style to suit - when starting out this is difficult to understand - most times if you can find someone with experience to either watch what your doing or set the machine & explain what they did & why you will be able to weld just fine depending on eyesight & a steady hand.
BetheRod
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Thanks for the replies. I think I’ve resolved my problem. Today I went and purchased some quality 6013 3/32 rods and they work a treat, I suspect the HF ones are not so good. Anyway , I can strike a arc with them pretty reliably , also unlike my HF 6011 and 7018 I can stretch the arc length to at least half a inch. They seem better at 80 amps which is the low end of their stated range.
Now to get some decent practice in.
Bazza


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BetheRod wrote:Thanks for the replies. I think I’ve resolved my problem. Today I went and purchased some quality 6013 3/32 rods and they work a treat, I suspect the HF ones are not so good. Anyway , I can strike a arc with them pretty reliably , also unlike my HF 6011 and 7018 I can stretch the arc length to at least half a inch. They seem better at 80 amps which is the low end of their stated range.
Now to get some decent practice in.
Bazza


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For your original issue, I'd bump up the Hot Start to 4-6, and the Arc Force, to 5. I bet that would help out, but that's just a guess without being there.
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I would also get some plate that is thicker than 10 gauge for practice. Get some 1/4 or 3/8 plate and set those 6011's at 85 amps. Trying to weld 10 gauge with stick is like trying to take chemistry 201 before you take Chemistry 101...too far advanced for the beginner.

Also when I was learning to stick weld I always found it useful to use a mantra when striking arcs: "keep the stick moving, keep the stick moving, keep the stick moving." It is awfully hard to stick the rod if it is in constant motion. I think lots of beginners (myself included) get the rod close, maybe tap it, but then don't keep it moving and then sticking is a natural consequence.
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BetheRod
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Thanks I’ll give it try when I’m settled. We’re having to live in our motorhome at the moment. The house got burnt in the Carr Fire. Fortunately my workshop was spared but the only power we have is from a small generator at the moment!


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