Stainless Steel SMAW Tips - Page 2

Poland308 · Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:12 am

Sometimes you have to weigh, not just how long this job will last, but the relationships and future possibilities. Good luck either way!

Easy10pins · Fri Jul 21, 2017 5:45 am

Poland308 wrote:Sometimes you have to weigh, not just how long this job will last, but the relationships and future possibilities. Good luck either way!

The PM, Superintendent and I have a great working relationship and already discussed the possible positive and negative outcomes of this last test.

I already knew my job may depend on me passing the test. No pressure there. LOL.

Hey, it's been a good 1.5 years with this company though.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskZ88uMH

Easy10pins · Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:26 am

Gentlemen,

My old superintendent was fired. The new guy gave me a new box of test plates to practice stating, "I need you to pass this test. Not only will you save me money but this will set you up for future projects."

So starting tomorrow I will be running practice plates once again.

My question is....

Is there a way to ensure that all of my stops and starts are OUTSIDE of the test pieces? Is it advisable to plan my beads in a way so ALL stops and starts fall outside of the pieces to be cut to bend?

Thank you.

PeteM · Mon Sep 04, 2017 12:51 pm

Probably.

The first inch of a typical test plate gets cut off and tossed. The second inch is the one that gets bend tested. The middle two are kept as proof. The 5th inch is also a bend piece or back up, depending on if they are doing 2 bends (root/face, etc.) and the top inch is also discarded.

If you plan your welds to avoid stop/start in the second or fifth inch, you could likely get away with a bad start.

That is what I know of AWS testing. I also did some ASME and ISO stuff on stainless that got x-ray and bend tested but don't know the what/where of the procedures for that type of testing.

Poland308 · Mon Sep 04, 2017 4:52 pm

Often no. You will simply need to grind back into your previous weld to ensure a good tie in.

Easy10pins · Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:39 pm

Poland308 wrote:Often no. You will simply need to grind back into your previous weld to ensure a good tie in.

Unfortunately, I can only grind the root. Once the root is in and I get a thumbs up, I'm only allowed to use a wire wheel for cleaning.

Poland308 · Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:11 pm

The root is the most important. After that the wire wheel should be enough.

Easy10pins · Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:20 pm

Poland308 wrote:The root is the most important. After that the wire wheel should be enough.

Yeah the tie ins are my greatest concern.

Poland308 · Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:04 pm

Grind back at least a 1/2 inch. And feather it pretty thin for a 1/4inch for the tie ins.

Owr · Wed Oct 04, 2017 11:14 am

If you`re running rutile then starts would be as previous poster mentioned - on the start of the weld.

Rutile ss stick requires tight arc all the time, best is to just practice vertical stringers with no pausing on let`s say 5mm plate with 2,5 mm rod. Amperage for vertical is usually pretty low compared to same diameter rod on mild steel.

If the job allows it you also have rutile-basic electrodes on disposal from Lincoln, which are from my experience great to work with.

Easy10pins · Wed Oct 04, 2017 4:31 pm

Poland308 wrote:Grind back at least a 1/2 inch. And feather it pretty thin for a 1/4inch for the tie ins.

No grinding allowed after the root pass.

Poland308 · Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:11 pm

Plan ahead,as you get close to the end of your comfort zone whip ahead and leave a low spot to start up on