ESAB buddy tig 160 (inside view/no test because noob)
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 4:36 pm
After a long hesitation I choose this welder against an stahlwerk DC unit.
I wanted a DC welder that can do SST job and because I'm a beginner a cheap one too.
HF seem to be a must so I wanted that too, I want to work also on my car with it so it must do lift also.
I didn't feel to need a pedal because I have a lot to learn, I will hack one If I need one (I'm comfortable with electronic stuff).
I write this so people can see the inside of it and also because I did'nt found a lot of information about this welder.
this unit cost me around 550€ (A little more than I wanted)
So lets do this first some unboxing
The unit came in a cardboard box inside it everything was well packed with protection and so on
with it :
-the tig torch 17 with a 2.4mm gray tungsten and a nr 8 cup
-masse clamp
-stick holder
-tube for argon with 2 clamp(no regulator)
-One strap for transport I remove it
The unit front
It seem extremely small and light brochure say :
height 230 mm
width 140 mm
length 310 mm
6Kg (same as the 3 cable)
Only 2 knob on for amp and one for downslop (upslope when stick)
1 switch to choose HF/lift
1 switch to choose 4T/2T/stick
2 led on and overheating
the switches seems fragile
the potentiometer shaft is in plastic so no brute force on it.
1 connector for the switch on the torch and the HF (3pin so no foot pedal without hacking)
the plugs socket and the argon port
Rear
non replacable cable,argon port and main switch
Sticker
Made In PRC
Plug
ground clamp
Torch
I've small hand the torch seem big to me
There is a switch on it, because of its position I don't like the way it make me hold the torch but I will live with that
The neck is not rigid and there is a swivel ball kind of thing for the cable (doesn't fell usefull for the moment)
It came with 2.4mm rod nr8 cup and long cap (nothing else)
The hose is composed of the main cable with argon flowing around and an another cable for the switch and HF I guess
The 2 are hold with some kind of heat shrink like hose doesn't feel good quality to me and heavy also.
Torch came with a tag with "Checked" written on it and the cup was not very clean
Stick clamp
rated to 200A nothing else written on it
And now the guts
Back of the main board (side)
The other side
Controller board (up)
seems that they hide the micro controller
Front (pot pcb)
IGBT
https://1123dcc6accb359eafd98acc592e5a6 ... 20igbt.jpg
model IKW50N60T from infineon
Rear
Solenoid
Conclusion
It weld but I have not a clue if it weld good or not.
On the other hand it seem pretty well assembled.
There is red goo on every large component some connectors and even on screw.
PCB are populated mainly with SMD that a good point for compactness less for serviceability.
Some wire are protected by a silicone like hose.
No daughter-board flying around the controller board is fixed on the heatsink.
Can't say if it will be reliable or good welder will see that in the futur. For the moment I grind more than welding.
Will try to post result that are showable in few weeks
So what you think?
I wanted a DC welder that can do SST job and because I'm a beginner a cheap one too.
HF seem to be a must so I wanted that too, I want to work also on my car with it so it must do lift also.
I didn't feel to need a pedal because I have a lot to learn, I will hack one If I need one (I'm comfortable with electronic stuff).
I write this so people can see the inside of it and also because I did'nt found a lot of information about this welder.
this unit cost me around 550€ (A little more than I wanted)
So lets do this first some unboxing
The unit came in a cardboard box inside it everything was well packed with protection and so on
with it :
-the tig torch 17 with a 2.4mm gray tungsten and a nr 8 cup
-masse clamp
-stick holder
-tube for argon with 2 clamp(no regulator)
-One strap for transport I remove it
The unit front
It seem extremely small and light brochure say :
height 230 mm
width 140 mm
length 310 mm
6Kg (same as the 3 cable)
Only 2 knob on for amp and one for downslop (upslope when stick)
1 switch to choose HF/lift
1 switch to choose 4T/2T/stick
2 led on and overheating
the switches seems fragile
the potentiometer shaft is in plastic so no brute force on it.
1 connector for the switch on the torch and the HF (3pin so no foot pedal without hacking)
the plugs socket and the argon port
Rear
non replacable cable,argon port and main switch
Sticker
Made In PRC
Plug
ground clamp
Torch
I've small hand the torch seem big to me
There is a switch on it, because of its position I don't like the way it make me hold the torch but I will live with that
The neck is not rigid and there is a swivel ball kind of thing for the cable (doesn't fell usefull for the moment)
It came with 2.4mm rod nr8 cup and long cap (nothing else)
The hose is composed of the main cable with argon flowing around and an another cable for the switch and HF I guess
The 2 are hold with some kind of heat shrink like hose doesn't feel good quality to me and heavy also.
Torch came with a tag with "Checked" written on it and the cup was not very clean
Stick clamp
rated to 200A nothing else written on it
And now the guts
Back of the main board (side)
The other side
Controller board (up)
seems that they hide the micro controller
Front (pot pcb)
IGBT
https://1123dcc6accb359eafd98acc592e5a6 ... 20igbt.jpg
model IKW50N60T from infineon
Rear
Solenoid
Conclusion
It weld but I have not a clue if it weld good or not.
On the other hand it seem pretty well assembled.
There is red goo on every large component some connectors and even on screw.
PCB are populated mainly with SMD that a good point for compactness less for serviceability.
Some wire are protected by a silicone like hose.
No daughter-board flying around the controller board is fixed on the heatsink.
Can't say if it will be reliable or good welder will see that in the futur. For the moment I grind more than welding.
Will try to post result that are showable in few weeks
So what you think?