Welding Tips and Tricks

So here we have my Crystal 2.0. In terms of clarity, it is the closest thing to a perfect welding hood there is.





The "shade 2" of the Crystal 2.0 is very deceiving. I would call it "shade 0.5", as there is practically nothing there! The e684 is like 10x as dark! The other hood that I have is what I would call a real shade 2 is the HTP Striker CSV. That one is lighter than the e684.

I was using it yesterday, and I realized I have to retrain my brain! I keep thinking that, even though the hood is down, that I don't even have my hood on and for a split second it freaks me out right before I strike the arc. Its like one of those "oh schit! I almost blinded myself ! Where is my welding helmet" kinda reactions! It is stupid-nice! I recommend this helmet over any welder or welding product/consumable ever.

You think you're happy. Until you try the Crystal 2.0, you wont realize just how miserable you are!



So I fired up the Invertig 400 to test out the Crystal 2.0 at high-amp TIG. Right now it will output a max of 350A since it is still on 1-Φ power. I tested 250A, 300A, 350A. At 350A, the tip of the tungsten is still discernible, but just barely. I prefer to see the tip of the tungsten 100%; I don't like it when it is obscured by the arc light being too bright.

For my eyes, I would say 350A on DC is the absolute max I'd want to use with the 2.0, unless you put on some sunglasses. It is tolerable for a little bit, but I suspect it might be too bright after about 30 seconds or so. So IMO, the Crystal 2.0 has a realistic upper limit of 275-300A DC, depending on your eyes. I haven't tried aluminum yet, but since it is usually brighter, I'm going to guesstimate 250-275A for AC TIG. I don't think that's big deal for the clarity you are getting. I'm just gonna order some cheapie polarized sunglasses off ebay to see if I can get away with 400A later when I have 3-Φ; just have to add a little darkness to it.

Oscar wrote:You think you're happy. Until you try the Crystal 2.0, you wont realize just how miserable you are!

Maybe ignorance is bliss in that regard...

Oscar wrote:For my eyes, I would say 350A on DC is the absolute max I'd want to use with the 2.0, unless you put on some sunglasses.

So are you saying that for $429 you can't darken the lens any? Granted, it would be fine for the amperage I have available to me, but can't you make the lens darker like you can on the Lincoln or Miller helmets?

I've been pondering getting either a Fein Slugger cold saw, or the Crystal 2.0, but after finding that out I think I'm leaning towards the Fein saw.

Yes you can adjust it, but it only goes up to shade 12, whether in Auto-Pilot or in manual mode. I think you read the "2.0" a little too literally. I was referring to the welding hood itself, not the shade level. I suspect that is part of the price Optrel paid to have such a light shade in the un-darkened state. It still does the whole auto-pilot thing while welding and everything. But you can't darken a lens more than the maximum it can be darkened. That should go without saying. I think with some sunglasses it will make it perfectly fine for 350A+. Of course that will be at the expense of not benefiting from the ultra-light un-darkened state. Perfect, no. But the increase in clarity (and the ability to see true-colors) at sub-300A welding is more than worth it. One day I suspect Optrel will have a lens that is shade 0 (like regular glass) that will darken to shade 15+. They are well on their way.

I'm sure the Fein slugger is nice too. Both would be great to have. I myself have been eye'ing the new EVO saw with a 15" steel blade.

Oscar wrote:One day I suspect Optrel will have a lens that is shade 0 (like regular glass) that will darken to shade 15+. They are well on their way.

Ok, you make a good point, and your case may be much different than me as you have 350-400 amps to worry about, where I just can't get that many amps out of my machine and probably won't.

However, this must be a problem for welders with high amperage machines. How has that been handled by most in the past, do you know?

Oscar wrote:I'm sure the Fein slugger is nice too. Both would be great to have. I myself have been eye'ing the new EVO saw with a 15" steel blade.

Yes, actually I had been eyeing the EVO S380CPS which is a 15" saw, but ships with a 14" blade. There is an EVO S355CPSL which is a 14" saw, but it has a stamped base, where the S380CPS has a cast base, similar to the Fein Slugger.

But here's why I've been looking at the Fein. First, the EVO saws are made in China. Also, the S355CPSL is available but the S380CPS which is the saw I would prefer is not, and it has no projected availability. I suspect this has something to do with the Wuhan virus, but don't know enough about where the EVO saws are manufactured to really know, just that if you go on the Amazon site and go look under the EVO page, there is no projected availability for the S380CPS.

The other factor is the Fein is actually made in Taiwan, that gives it a slight edge as Taiwan is known to produce better machines and tools than China does, and the Fein is available today. The one thing I thought may have looked easier to set on the EVO was the angle for the miter cuts, that's one area I mostly want the saw for, I want a saw that I can take my miters off and go straight to the welding table after a quick bevel. I also want quick repeatability going from 90 degree cuts to 45 degree miters, both the EVO and Fein look to be similar. I have not seen any good comparisons on both saws, but the Fein does have graduated marks similar to the EVO, it's just not clear to me which may be the better choice. A couple sites I watch on YT, one being Jimbo's Garage, have nothing but good things to say about the Fein. The price of the EVO S380CPS and Fein Slugger are about the same. EVO may be slightly higher if it was available. EVO 355CPSL is about $100 cheaper.

Lastly I sent a question to Evolution on Amazon asking if they could at least give me an ETA but in over a week they haven't been able to answer me.

Not trying to derail your Optrel thread, so let me ask you something else as I still haven't made my mind up on what I will spend some cash on...but what about cheater lenses? Are they available for the Optrel and if so, how much do they cost?

I was already weighing in your use of the Miller headgear, that's something to consider. How is the balance on the Miller vs. Optrel headgear? I find my Miller Digital Elite a bit front heavy, where I really need to crank down the headband as well as the pivot tighteners on each side.

I have no idea how common high amperage Tig welding is, but for most of us that Optrel 2.0 would be perfect. I'm a big fan of optical clarity and I suppose you now have the best 2020 has to offer in a auto darkening lens.

I started with fixed shade, then got the Hobart Pro. Nothing but grainy shades of green.

Many of these modern true color high definition hoods are good. I really considered that Optrel, but couldn't justify the price. I needed a portable stick welder more than I needed a better hood.

Maybe when they make that 0 light shade I'll change my mind.

TraditionalToolworks wrote:

However, this must be a problem for welders with high amperage machines. How has that been handled by most in the past, do you know?

Not trying to derail your Optrel thread, so let me ask you something else as I still haven't made my mind up on what I will spend some cash on...but what about cheater lenses? Are they available for the Optrel and if so, how much do they cost?

I was already weighing in your use of the Miller headgear, that's something to consider. How is the balance on the Miller vs. Optrel headgear? I find my Miller Digital Elite a bit front heavy, where I really need to crank down the headband as well as the pivot tighteners on each side.

Actually, I don't think its a problem at all, since most Crystal 4.0 hoods (regular helmets ) can go up to shade 13, that is plenty dark for 300-400A, IMO.

There are cheaters for Optrel's, but they are not universal, they are specific to those hoods, and I think they are about $5ea. I haven't looked at those because I don't do a lot of small parts.

I had not considered the balance TBH; I never really felt it was an issue. I too have to crank down on the pivot tighteners as well for the Miller headgear but I don't feel it changes the balance. The optrel stock headgear isnt super horrible, I just prefer the Miller style headgear.

v5cvbb wrote:.

Maybe when they make that 0 light shade I'll change my mind.

Honestly, I feel Optrel is less than 10 years away from making that happen. They just need to work on making it darken to 13+, because it would be useless if it only went up to shade 10 .

I'm going to see if I can get some good arc shots using my hoods' auto-darkening instead of at the camera to show a comparison between the Crystal 2.0, e684, and my HTP Striker CSV.

A comparison would be interesting if you could get the relative brightness the same. It would be nice if you could get a real world off state comparison. Do you have a lux meter?

I like a bright image. I rarely go above shade 9, even at 140A.

Sorry no lux meter.

I have an app on my phone that has a lux meter. Not particularly accurate but seems repeatable. Could give an relative value at least. If such things interest you.

Good call on the cell phone app.

Optrel Crystal 2.0: 160
Optrel e684: 24
HTP Striker CSV: 68

Nice. Are the e684 and the HTP both listed as shade 4?

I have a chart saved somewhere that lists the attenuation range for each shade. They are rather wide if memory serves.

v5cvbb wrote:Nice. Are the e684 and the HTP both listed as shade 4?

I have a chart saved somewhere that lists the attenuation range for each shade. They are rather wide if memory serves.

The Striker CSV was rated at 3 in the un-darkened state. The e684 4.

Shade 2 passes 29-43%
Shade 3 passes 8.5-18%
Shade 4 passes 3.16-8.5%

A clear lens is anything above 85%.

That means a 2 could give you 10x more light than a 4. Pretty good drop going from a 3 to a 2 as well.

I'm sure that shade 2 is nice not needing to lift the hood for much of anything.

Oscar wrote:Good call on the cell phone app.

Optrel Crystal 2.0: 160
Optrel e684: 24
HTP Striker CSV: 68

Are these numbers for the clear state for each hood?

It's super annoying that I'm now probably going to have to drop $430 on this Optrel 2.0 helmet. Thanks a lot...

LtBadd wrote:

Oscar wrote:Good call on the cell phone app.

Optrel Crystal 2.0: 160
Optrel e684: 24
HTP Striker CSV: 68

Are these numbers for the clear state for each hood?

Yup.

retrofitted Miller head gear. Officially the best piece of welding equipment I own, bar none.

Oscar, was the Optrel headgear so bad that you needed to retrofit the Miller headgear, or was it just mild personal preference?

Mild personal preference. The miller is a little bit more comfortable, and I like the ratchet mechanism better. With the Optrel, you have to push the knob inward so you can turn it, and with the Miller you just turn it and the knob itself is larger so you can adjust with gloves on. The optrel knob is kinda small.

Oscar wrote:Mild personal preference. The miller is a little bit more comfortable, and I like the ratchet mechanism better. With the Optrel, you have to push the knob inward so you can turn it, and with the Miller you just turn it and the knob itself is larger so you can adjust with gloves on. The optrel knob is kinda small.

Gotcha, thanks. Figured that was the case but needed to ask before a dropped money on this helmet that costs more than some of the cars I’ve bought.

Isn't that the Crystal 2.0 hanging behind Jody in today's video? I hadn't noticed it before.

v5cvbb wrote:Isn't that the Crystal 2.0 hanging behind Jody in today's video? I hadn't noticed it before.

Yup, he's been using it for some time now, as I've seen it in a lot of his videos. It's the go-to welding hood.

Here's one on Ebay for only 300 bones. The company selling it also sell them on Amazon for full price.

Has two small cracks around the edge...probably easily repairable. Also listed as "used" but looks like it was never actually used to me.

May be a good deal for someone.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Optrel-Crystal ... SwTfde39M3

Spartan wrote:Here's one on Ebay for only 300 bones. The company selling it also sell them on Amazon for full price.

It's used with 2 cracks in the shell.