Welding Tips and Tricks

Hey all,

I tried searching the forum but I couldn't find the info I needed. I'm about to buy a Honeywell Tiger Hood and a Radnor 24s Auto Shade 10. Im needing to now what size glass i need inside and out. I would like to use a 1.5 cheater lens and I'm also having some confusion on what goes where. I know a cover lens goes outside but what size and where do I put the inner lens in this hood? I really want good clear glass so some product suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance!

Hi there,

https://www.honeywellsafety.com/Product ... ?site=/usa

http://www.airgas.com/product/Safety-Pr ... AD64005100 (click the more details and specs tab)

Thanks for that but it's not giving me the info I need or I'm just to green to know what I'm looking for. I am going to buy passive Tiger Hood and insert a Radnor Auto Lens. Im trying to figure out what demensions of glass i need. I know the viewing window is 2x4 1/4" but don't I need a larger cover to cover the Solar panel and sensors?

I keep a passive hood on hand and use it every once in a while to stay in practice. Not a bad idea to keep a redundant passive around in case the autodark battery fails, or what. So, asking to find out, not to challenge your approach: why convert a passive helmet to autodark?

Artie F. Emm wrote:I keep a passive hood on hand and use it every once in a while to stay in practice. Not a bad idea to keep a redundant passive around in case the autodark battery fails, or what. So, asking to find out, not to challenge your approach: why convert a passive helmet to autodark?

Now he'll have both, and will be able to switch back and forth.
Though, that's not bad advise.

Artie F. Emm wrote:I keep a passive hood on hand and use it every once in a while to stay in practice. Not a bad idea to keep a redundant passive around in case the autodark battery fails, or what. So, asking to find out, not to challenge your approach: why convert a passive helmet to autodark?

I guess just because I like auto dark and buying a passive is cheaper than buying one already auto dark. I'm am a new welder who just started school so I have no knowledge on this subject really. I am torn between a flip lens and fixed. I think I've decided to go fixed but still add an Arcone auto lens. I have herd great things and it is cheaper than the Radnor.

Gotcha- I remember being a student on a budget.

I can't help but think retrofitting a passive into an autodark might be more expense and effort for less outcome. A quick look on the web shows the Tiger Hood at $51, free shipping. The Arc One budget version is $51 plus whatever shipping. Total so far, $102 at least.

Northern Tool has an autodark helmet on sale: $106 shipped, $100 at a retail store. (Chose the Northern more or less at random; my first autodark was a Northern model.) The Northern helmet is a wide view, 4 sensors, has sensitivity adjustment, and darkens to shades 9 - 13.

The Arc One lens has the standard 2x4 view, 2 sensors, no sensitivity adjustment, and darkens to 10.5 only. You could get by with 2 sensors and the 2x4 view. Will the 10.5 shade work for you? Can you do without the sensitivity adjustment?

Multiple shades are almost the standard in an autodark helmet. Many helmets (but neither of these) also have a grind mode that you may find useful or desirable.

Do what works best for you, of course. Does your school offer a helmet, or does the LWS nearest you offer a student discount?

The school does provide one and I bought one before I picked the school but they are both poop. They are not very clear and I have trouble seeing anything but my puddle and they are plastic. I have used a cheaper Jackson hood and the very lense I want in a pipeliners hood and it's far better. I also don't want a cheap plastic hood. I have buddies in the industry and they say pipeliner is what most structural or pipe welders use. They are tough, durable and customizable.

Could I not just slap in a auto shade in a fixed shade hood? Or does it have to be manufactured auto to accommodate the wider lens assembly? That would make sense but I was lead to believe it didn't matter.

Hello TWS Student Darek, what is your budget for a new hood? This could help us to recommend something based on what we (others) have actually used. Your not mentioned point is, the welding hood is a very important "tool" in not only the learning process but also the work you'll be doing after school, I believe you have already experienced this fact by using the cheap (poop) hood.

LtBadd wrote:Hello TWS Student Darek, what is your budget for a new hood? This could help us to recommend something based on what we (others) have actually used. Your not mentioned point is, the welding hood is a very important "tool" in not only the learning process but also the work you'll be doing after school, I believe you have already experienced this fact by using the cheap (poop) hood.

Budget really isn't an issue, I'm just thrifty. I don't need a wide lense $500 hood when you are only looking at an area no bigger than an inch or 2. I just want a pipeliners hood with a clear auto lens. I like the customization that can be done with a tiger hood or something like it.

Most hoods in the $120- $200 range are good quality hoods that will last you for years. Then you just need to pick based off of the features you want.

TWS Student Darek wrote: Budget really isn't an issue, I'm just thrifty. I don't need a wide lense $500 hood when you are only looking at an area no bigger than an inch or 2. I just want a pipeliners hood with a clear auto lens. I like the customization that can be done with a tiger hood or something like it.

Nothing wrong with being thrifty, and there is a reason a lot of hoods have a larger viewing area, I would recommend the Striker Supreme hood by USA Weld, it's lens is a little bigger then the 2 x 4, yet smaller then many "wide" lens out there. It has an optical clarity rating of 1/1/1/1, which is the highest possible, and at a reasonable cost. Also includes the adjustable sensitivity and delay, very useful features.

I know I am late, too late probably but maybe someone else may find it useful.

two guys I work with have arc one carreras with 2 different lenses, one cost 86 bucks the other 113 and both are good hoods w/ variable shade. oddly enough the 86 dollar one is much clearer.

I just reviewed the Vulcan hood and would recommend it as well if you want to spend around 130.