[TraditionalToolworks]

This is kind of a corny review/comparison, but the reason I'm doing it is because I've seen more than one posts asking which consumables are better between the Primeweld and AHP. These 2 machines seem to be 2 of the more popular low end AC/DC Tig/Stick welders that people consider buying these days. They are about as low as you can get for this type of machine, IMO.

The more I dig into the Primeweld, the more impressed I have with some of the features. In this case I will show a comparison between the stingers. This is not an AHP stinger, however the AHP comes with the same consumables as the Everlast green weenies, AFAIK. Also, my green weenie was purchased 2 years ago and AFAICT the ground/stinger are the same to this day, so I'm just guessing the AHP has the same one.

I should also preface this letting you know that I don't use any of these stringers or ground clamps, but this post doesn't show the ground clamps, only the stringers. You will see below I use a Lenco 250 amp USA made stinger and a Martin Wells 300 amp USA made stubby screw type. I have both on the cables provided by Primeweld and Everlast.

First, let's talk about the quality of the stinger jaws themselves. The Everlast is a bit more wonky than I've ever liked, even when new. They tend to wobble sideways which allows the rod to fall out in some cases. Certainly easier than non-wonky jaws. Both are Chinese stringers however, just that the Primeweld provides a better stinger.

Let's look at the cable connectors. I was surprised to find the Primeweld has a crimped lug that even has fairly heavy shrink wrap on it. I would consider this to be a plus. However, the Martin Wells stubby stinger I use wouldn't work with this cable unless you cut it off, it has a point with a hex nut that screws over it, I think it is probably best to solder the cable to the point, that I don't know. I create a cone shape and smash it in and screw it together, it seems to hold the cable tight. Might not be the best way and the Everlast cable is not frayed as it is here in the pic, that happened from using it with the Martin Wells. With the Primeweld cable it uses a lug that attaches to a screw/wash setup to sandwich the lug in between. The Everlast uses a piece of copper for a lug round set screw to smash against. My Lenco is very simialr, however I am using the Everlast cable on my Lenco stinger as the Primeweld is not suitable without removing the lug and creating a cone as I do. The Everlast does use 2 set screws, but they are not hex driven, they are phillips screwdriver driven. 2 is better, IMO, but screwdriver driven sucks. I will say I am surprised that the Primeweld has almost no wonky sideways movement, it looks to solve that problem. The cable on the Primeweld is slightly more pliable also, so I would give the edge to the Primeweld.

Primeweld and Everlast stringer jaws

primeweld-everlast-stingers.jpg (58.04 KiB) Viewed 16338 times

Primeweld stinger connector

primeweld-stinger-connector.jpg (62.78 KiB) Viewed 16338 times

Everlast stinger cable

everlast-stinger-cable.jpg (63.51 KiB) Viewed 16338 times

Primeweld and Everlast cable ends

primeweld-everlast-cables.jpg (69.48 KiB) Viewed 16338 times

Martin Wells connector

martin-wells-connector.jpg (64.29 KiB) Viewed 16338 times

As noted above, I don't use either of the stingers, but have both ready to use when I need, either the jaw style Lenco 250 amp or the Martin Wells stubby screw type. Either of these is just a better stinger, and I like the fact they are made in the USA. I will also note that I have been using the Lenco way longer than I used the Everlast stinger and notice that the plastic around the jaws is not burned up, it seems to be a very durable plastic, unlike the Everlast that is burned from short rods. As far as being the most durable, the nod goes to the Martin Wells, it is akin to Tempest quality for any of you military folks. At least that is how they rate equipment they take into combat, AFAIK. I'm not actually a military person, but have worked on some Tempest systems in my work. Don't drop one on your foot, certainly not without steel toes.

Lenco 250 amp USA stinger and Martin Wells 300 amp stubby screw style stinger

lenco-martinwells-usa-stingers.jpg (64.55 KiB) Viewed 16338 times

[Oscar]

My Inverarc 200TLP came with the same one as the Primeweld. I'm not too fond of it, but it works I guess. The 200A tweco, now that one I really like. It is very ergonomic. I think I'm gonna buy two more of those.

[TraditionalToolworks]

My Inverarc 200TLP came with the same one as the Primeweld. I'm not too fond of it, but it works I guess. The 200A tweco, now that one I really like. It is very ergonomic. I think I'm gonna buy two more of those.

I think it looks pretty good for Chinese, most of the ones I've seen on the inexpensive machines are like the Everlast.

One thing I will say about Jeff Nolan is that even in the case where he carries Chinese products he seems to vet them pretty well and pick the ones that are a decent value.

Even I understand that we can't have everything non-Chinese these days, which was kind of a deciding factor on me even pulling the trigger on the Primeweld, but at some point we need to realize that the tungsten is pretty much all made in China as is the filler.

I recently got a hose cover from HTP, along with a few tunstens to get free shipping. More than happy with the cover, even though made in China, the price was good and it's very flexible.

Those Tweco stingers have always been respected, are they still made in the USA these days? Even a couple years ago I was finding that several of the US companies had started producing their stringers overseas. I hope some of the current issues will bring some of them back to America, for at least some of the product that went to China.

[cj737]

Those Tweco stingers have always been respected, are they still made in the USA these days? Even a couple years ago I was finding that several of the US companies had started producing their stringers overseas. I hope some of the current issues will bring some of them back to America, for at least some of the product that went to China.

It’s all about cost. Too many Americans are cheap bastards and won’t pay the price for their products to be made here any longer. People bellyache about quality then but disposal hard goods, cars, furniture and mail order clones because they think they’re saving money. Everybody wants convenience and nobody will pay what’s needed for good, quality things any longer.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Those Tweco stingers have always been respected, are they still made in the USA these days? Even a couple years ago I was finding that several of the US companies had started producing their stringers overseas. I hope some of the current issues will bring some of them back to America, for at least some of the product that went to China.

It’s all about cost. Too many Americans are cheap bastards and won’t pay the price for their products to be made here any longer. People bellyache about quality then but disposal hard goods, cars, furniture and mail order clones because they think they’re saving money. Everybody wants convenience and nobody will pay what’s needed for good, quality things any longer.

cj,

I totally agree, in some cases I'm as bad as others as I did buy the Primeweld, but even so I was wafflin' back and forth over the issue. So far I really have no issues, and the stinger is really a small nit as I won't even use the one supplied with the Primeweld. I think it just shows how they have been selective in what they supply, even though it is Chinese product, Primeweld seems selective in even the stringer selection. I think it says something about them as a company.

But as I have said, it's no Miller or HTP welder, and I didn't expect that. Pretty good welder with some great accessories/consumables for the price. Actually quite amazing, IMO, that they can even supply a CK Worldwide torch, include decent consumables and pay for shipping...I don't get it.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Posting this as I couldn't get this information easily when I was interested in purchasing a Primeweld Tig 225x.

This is the label on the back of the machine.

Primeweld Tig 225 electrical label

primeweld-label.jpg (74.65 KiB) Viewed 16296 times

[v5cvbb]

Another satisfied Primeweld owner here. Close to a year and it's a great machine for the money. I also wanted the HTP but couldn't handle the cost. No regrets with my purchase. Only missing feature I would have liked is lift start, but it wasn't a deal breaker. I've done enough aluminum welding to know it's good enough for me. I weld mostly steel and 10 amps is plenty low enough for anything I've done. I've overheated my CK17 a few times and have never found the duty cycle on the machine. Fans could be quiter if I had to complain about something. As someone else said, I keep the music loud enough to not care.

I haven't stick welded with mine since the day I got it. I ran a handful of 3/32" 6011 and 7018 back to back until I kicked a 20 amp 120V breaker using an extension cord. Likely less then 90 amps, I was just burning rods to check the machine out. Got my argon the next day and it's been Tig since then. I do remember noticing I couldn't long arc like on my Thunderbolt, but it definitely welded.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I haven't stick welded with mine since the day I got it. I ran a handful of 3/32" 6011 and 7018 back to back until I kicked a 20 amp 120V breaker using an extension cord. Likely less then 90 amps, I was just burning rods to check the machine out. Got my argon the next day and it's been Tig since then. I do remember noticing I couldn't long arc like on my Thunderbolt, but it definitely welded.

Over on WeldingWeb one of the gents there recently did this 7018 filet when I had mentioned my initial concerns on the stick.

This is a 3 pass fillet weld using some old McKay xlm 1/8" 7018 at 124 amps that he did. (Hopefully MJD won't mind I am posting it here).

3 pass 7018 fillet weld on the Primeweld

primeweld-3-pass-7018-filet.jpg (41.25 KiB) Viewed 16240 times

This was his comments:

(from MJD on WeldingWeb)

Well tried it out. 91 amps seems to be the sweet spot for 3-32" 7018. It doesn't start the arc as nice as my esab 161 or certainly the xmt but once lit it runs pretty smooth. Out of curiosity I looked around and found a few ancient brick red 6010 electrodes in 1/8". I kept the amps at 91 and tried them. To my surprise I was able to keep the rod lit even while trying to bury it or pull a longer arc. Vertical up with 7018 went good with the exception of everything heating up toward the top but I was only using 3/16" thick angle. I would say it's not bad for a 775$ Tig welder. I'm not crazy about the stinger but I am used to using a 250 amp tweco high tong.

The fact he could run 6010 is quite remarkable as this machine doesn't have any arc force (dig) or hot start settings.

[Poland308]

Another satisfied Primeweld owner here. Close to a year and it's a great machine for the money. I also wanted the HTP but couldn't handle the cost. No regrets with my purchase. Only missing feature I would have liked is lift start, but it wasn't a deal breaker. I've done enough aluminum welding to know it's good enough for me. I weld mostly steel and 10 amps is plenty low enough for anything I've done. I've overheated my CK17 a few times and have never found the duty cycle on the machine. Fans could be quiter if I had to complain about something. As someone else said, I keep the music loud enough to not care.

I haven't stick welded with mine since the day I got it. I ran a handful of 3/32" 6011 and 7018 back to back until I kicked a 20 amp 120V breaker using an extension cord. Likely less then 90 amps, I was just burning rods to check the machine out. Got my argon the next day and it's been Tig since then. I do remember noticing I couldn't long arc like on my Thunderbolt, but it definitely welded.

Same observations here, on ThermalArc, Miller, and Lincoln. Name doesn’t make much difference any more. I’ve got a new Miller max star 210 that’s 6 months old and been in the warranty shop twice for repairs. Not a trash unit just luck. Welded with lots/ abused even more that didn’t fail. At work I stick with big names, because I can guarantee the warranty service ( even if it’s inconvenient and a PITA.). But I’ll use no name/ small supplier stuff any chance I get. As long as it arcs.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Same observations here, on ThermalArc, Miller, and Lincoln. Name doesn’t make much difference any more. I’ve got a new Miller max star 210 that’s 6 months old and been in the warranty shop twice for repairs. Not a trash unit just luck. Welded with lots/ abused even more that didn’t fail. At work I stick with big names, because I can guarantee the warranty service ( even if it’s inconvenient and a PITA.). But I’ll use no name/ small supplier stuff any chance I get. As long as it arcs.

Josh,

I completely agree with what you say, some times it's just bad luck on a machine.

I think some of us who have bought Primewelds are just surprised that we haven't seen more problems considering these machines sell for what they do, I honestly don't know how they have done it, but they have only been out for 2 years.

I've made it clear that these machines are no Miller, HTP, Lincoln, Esab, et al...but I'm pleasantly surprised with the machine.

I really had doubts about 6010 although I have seen one or two others post they could run it, but I know this guy who said it ran fairly well once lit. Same for 7018.

I haven't been able to try any stick out yet as my garage door is busted...

I'm liking the tig though.

[Poland308]

Any arc is usable. If it makes an arc weld with it as long as you can. Good luck with the practice.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Any arc is usable. If it makes an arc weld with it as long as you can. Good luck with the practice.

That's something I could use some of Josh...sometimes I feel that if it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all...

[tooln98]

I'm hoping to pick one up one they come back in stock. From everything I've been reading these sound like a good machine. Time will tell.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I'm hoping to pick one up one they come back in stock. From everything I've been reading these sound like a good machine. Time will tell.

There's a lot of good welders out there, and when you get down to it, a machine doesn't actually make anyone a great welder. Otherwise everyone would have an $8000 machine.

But I know all of us want to find the best value we can. So many, including myself pontificate over features, or even power use between machines trying to make a decision on which one to buy.

I haven't opened my Primeweld yet, but I'm one of these guys that needs to open up and take $#!T apart.

Very curious to compare how the Primeweld looks inside to how my Everlast looked. That's probably an area George (mechanic416) would have experience with, he's been in a lot of machine. Maybe he'll see this and comment, but he doesn't comment too much normally.

[sbaker56]

The question I have to ask myself is, do I need 6010? I keep answering in my head, "no".

That's because you haven't ran 6010 on this HTP lunchbox. One 6010 electrode later, and you'd be on the phone with HTP ordering one. Nah, but seriously, I'm about to make a video on it just for the heck of it. I'll probably run some cheap 6010s instead of my Lincoln 5p+/6p+ good stuff. Save those for real projects, lol.

I haven't finished reading this thread yet, but I had to stop and comment. This times 10000000X, Yes 6011 and 6010 are "similar" both high dig violent cellulose rods good for root and all position work. But light up a 6011 and a 6010 back to back on the same machine especially something like a 5p+ and if you're like me you'll literally chuck the last pound of 6011 in the trash. I just picked up a Lincoln Invertec 275-S. which is a damned good stick machine and maybe if for no other reason than quality control, 6010 rods are just nicer.

Are they Necessary? Hell no. You'll probably end up running 6011 half the time anyway when you've got to burn 20 pounds of rods and all that matters is it sticks together.

[DavidR8]

Deleted

[tooln98]

I pulled the trigger this AM and ordered one also. I just checked Primewelds website and they are sold out already. I'm really courious how many they have sold.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Just ordered my 225!
Looking forward to learning a new skill!

I pulled the trigger this AM and ordered one also. I just checked Primewelds website and they are sold out already. I'm really courious how many they have sold.

Congrats to both of you, I don't think either of you will be disappointed, but one never knows.

I would also be curious how many they get, but they sell out promptly. Seems a lot of people waiting for them, without a doubt one of the most popular inexpensive AC/DC machines on the market.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I haven't finished reading this thread yet, but I had to stop and comment. This times 10000000X, Yes 6011 and 6010 are "similar" both high dig violent cellulose rods good for root and all position work. But light up a 6011 and a 6010 back to back on the same machine especially something like a 5p+ and if you're like me you'll literally chuck the last pound of 6011 in the trash. I just picked up a Lincoln Invertec 275-S. which is a damned good stick machine and maybe if for no other reason than quality control, 6010 rods are just nicer.

Are they Necessary? Hell no. You'll probably end up running 6011 half the time anyway when you've got to burn 20 pounds of rods and all that matters is it sticks together.

Actually not, as I only stick weld approximately 10% of my welding, and I do use 7018 as my preferred rod of choice...so...I wonder how much I will really use 6011, or if I would really get use out of a 6010 capable machines as I have noted?

Most of my projects are based around tool making, but some involve additions to my sawmill and other stuff that is outdoors. That is where I have always wanted 6010/6011, but the more I see it's mostly used for root passes by pipewelders. Although not as forgiving on rust/dirt, 7018 is still my favorite rod of all, the beads just look the best and the slag literally falls off by sneezing on it. (oops, am I allowed to do that during this pandemic? )

BTW, those Invertec 275s machines are really nice welders, although they take twice the amount of power as the Primeweld does, and many people just don't have that much in their homes. They also go for a lot of money used in my area, like upwards of $2000. I was looking at them at one point though, mainly for the size, the 225 is much bigger and heavier, and they don't make the Invertec 205T anymore, that 275 is an attractive box. Although not as many amps, the new 230 Aspect looks like one hell of a box! Congrats on scoring the 275, I certainly wouldn't push one out of my shop at the right price!

[TraditionalToolworks]

BTW, congrats to any of you who were able to get your order in on a Primeweld for this current shipment.

In an interview with Maria Bartiromo of Fox News today Trump made a comment that he's considering just cutting off China entirely for what they've done on this coronavirus.

Not sure how serious he is about that, but it wouldn't bode too well for the Chinese welders, Primeweld included. Just sayin'...

[Poland308]

I dare anyone to find a welder without Chinese components in it. ???

[TraditionalToolworks]

I dare anyone to find a welder without Chinese components in it. ???

Josh,

Just pointing out what Trump was saying...

Maybe welders will need to be made in America once again!

[TraditionalToolworks]

I dare anyone to find a welder without Chinese components in it. ???

Josh,

I hate to say but the way things are going will most likely not bode well for all welding supplies in general. I think it could be time to start stocking up on some consumables, as most of the tungsten and filler is made in China these days.

The President just put a ban on companies supplying computer chips to Huawei, and China is saying they were rebuttal against us. You are 100% correct that a lot of welders have Chinese components, and that could become a difficult area as US companies may be forced to use non-Chinese products.

These are pressing times for all of us. Get your welders and supplies while you can! Luckily our gas comes from here, but what about other consumables? I'd rather have filler than toilet paper if I need to weld. I can always wash my @$$ out in the shower if it got down to it.

EDIT: I just ordered 9# of filler from Cyberweld, 3# 3/32 4043, 3# 3/32 5356, 3# 1/16 ER70S-2. I have quite a bit of ER70S-2 in 1/16" and 3/32", but seem to use more 1/16" on that. Wanted to try some 4943 but they didn't have any. Shipping is free.

[LtBadd]

EDIT: I just ordered 9# of filler from Cyberweld, 3# 3/32 4043, 3# 3/32 5356, 3# 1/16 ER70S-2. I have quite a bit of ER70S-2 in 1/16" and 3/32", but seem to use more 1/16" on that. Wanted to try some 4943 but they didn't have any. Shipping is free.

Bakers Gas has the 4943

[TraditionalToolworks]

Bakers Gas has the 4943

Thanks for letting me know that. They appear to only sell it in 10# boxes, I really don't need that much. I could get it by the pound at arc-zone, but it's $19/lb and they want to charge for shipping on top of it.

Baker Gas does have free shipping over $50, and $64/10#, so about 1/3rd the price of arc-zone.

I'm gonna try and pick up a pound or two locally. That's kind of why I ordered the 4043, I've been using it and it works ok, and the majority of folks on the web seem to be using it for aluminum. I would like to try it though, but 10# might be a bit much for me. Price is cheap though...