im using 6011 for root pass and 6013 for filling and capping, can someone give some video on how to do it correctly and please do the basic im just a beginner in pipe welding but i need it to pass my certification.
many thanks to any one!!!!
- Braehill
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Mightyweld,
Welcome to the forum. Feel free to use our introduction page to tell us a little about yourself, where you're from, level of experience, first name (nickname), that sort of thing.
Judging by the rods you're using I'm pretty sure you're not from the US or you would be asking how to weld pipe with 6010 and 7018 fill and cap.
There are plenty of folks here who use 6011 and 6013 that will be along to help you. I personally have never ran a 6011 rod in my life but have heard that they are similar to a 6010, but I'll leave the advise to someone with real life experience.
Len
Welcome to the forum. Feel free to use our introduction page to tell us a little about yourself, where you're from, level of experience, first name (nickname), that sort of thing.
Judging by the rods you're using I'm pretty sure you're not from the US or you would be asking how to weld pipe with 6010 and 7018 fill and cap.
There are plenty of folks here who use 6011 and 6013 that will be along to help you. I personally have never ran a 6011 rod in my life but have heard that they are similar to a 6010, but I'll leave the advise to someone with real life experience.Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
wheresmejumper
- wheresmejumper
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Run 6011 the same way jodie runs 6010 in his vids.
6013 needs a lot of drag angle on top and bottom of the pipe,or it gets slaggy.coming up the sides, are less susceptible to it.
you can run 6013 a few different ways.weave,pause,weave etc or wash the pool side to side with no pausing at the sides
6013 needs a lot of drag angle on top and bottom of the pipe,or it gets slaggy.coming up the sides, are less susceptible to it.
you can run 6013 a few different ways.weave,pause,weave etc or wash the pool side to side with no pausing at the sides
Dancing with the blue lady
Boomer63
- Boomer63
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Hello Mightyweld!
With open root pipe, you have two major problems. Dealing with the pipe, as opposed to plate, and dealing with the open root.
If you have access to the iron, practice the open root on vertical plate: Use something like 1/8" plate and your 6010 rod. Pay close attention to your angles. Keep the arc length short - to me, the end of the rod is buried right into the weld, so that you get that 'penetrated' look on the inside.
Root, filler, covers, keep your arc length tight. Pay attention to your rod angles. Don't be afraid to walk away from the iron and let it cool! Practice, practice, practice! If it were easy, it would pay the same as flipping burgers!
With open root pipe, you have two major problems. Dealing with the pipe, as opposed to plate, and dealing with the open root.
If you have access to the iron, practice the open root on vertical plate: Use something like 1/8" plate and your 6010 rod. Pay close attention to your angles. Keep the arc length short - to me, the end of the rod is buried right into the weld, so that you get that 'penetrated' look on the inside.
Root, filler, covers, keep your arc length tight. Pay attention to your rod angles. Don't be afraid to walk away from the iron and let it cool! Practice, practice, practice! If it were easy, it would pay the same as flipping burgers!
mightyweld
- mightyweld
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Many thanks everyone!!! And yes i know that US use 6010 and 7018 rod. Im having problem with filling and capping i always get pin hole. Idk what the problem is... But i usually cant get a good position when im on the left side of the pipe. Hope someone can give me an easy basic rod manipulation when running the rod on the side.
Thanks again!!!
Thanks again!!!
- Otto Nobedder
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mightyweld,mightyweld wrote:... i usually cant get a good position when im on the left side of the pipe. Hope someone can give me an easy basic rod manipulation when running the rod on the side.
I hate to say it, because not everyone can do it, but practice with your "off" hand. With many years of practice, I can switch from right-hand to left-hand without breaking the arc while stick-welding. Even if you don't need it often, it's a great tool to have in the box when you do!
Steve S
Boomer63
- Boomer63
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Hi mightyweld! I use a 'Z' weave for uphill pipe like you describe. I keep the arc length short, very short. Keep my weave tight. Rather than go straight across in my weave, I put a slight (very slight) arc in my manipulation. I feel like this makes the weld look better. Hold the toes of the weld and wait for the puddle to fill out. You don't have to run your rod to the edge of the groove; remember that the puddle is larger than the rod and can fill out those areas.
It is a fact that for most folks, one side is easier than the other. I do my 'strong' side first. When I do the strong side, I try to reach around a bit farther on the top and bottom of the pipe, so that I have less to do on the 'weak side'. Like some of the other guys suggested, practice using exclusively your off hand. You can also practice exclusively on your 'weak' side. Just turn the pipe coupon over. A lot of times, students tend to gravitate towards what is easiest or what they are most familiar with. Practice is not about getting it perfect, it is about honing your skills. Push your limits. do things that are uncomfortable. When my class is practicing V-Groove plate, I tell them to practice using a weave as filler/cover, AND to practice stringers as filler/cover. Why? Because you don't know what the WPS is going to call for. Most of my guys will listen and vary up what they do, but there are always a couple who only want to do what they are comfortable with, or what they feel like will look good. Stupid and childish way to think, but by choosing to NOT practice both, they may be costing themselves a job down the line.
Also, do a LOT of practice with the 'dry run'. Power off, thinking about rod angles and muscle memory. Don't rush through this, and don't think that once or twice is enough. Ten to fifteen times EACH, with a full rod, half rod and short rod is what you need to do. Remember, you are teaching your body to do something it finds difficult and doesn't want to do. It takes time and patience.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Gary
It is a fact that for most folks, one side is easier than the other. I do my 'strong' side first. When I do the strong side, I try to reach around a bit farther on the top and bottom of the pipe, so that I have less to do on the 'weak side'. Like some of the other guys suggested, practice using exclusively your off hand. You can also practice exclusively on your 'weak' side. Just turn the pipe coupon over. A lot of times, students tend to gravitate towards what is easiest or what they are most familiar with. Practice is not about getting it perfect, it is about honing your skills. Push your limits. do things that are uncomfortable. When my class is practicing V-Groove plate, I tell them to practice using a weave as filler/cover, AND to practice stringers as filler/cover. Why? Because you don't know what the WPS is going to call for. Most of my guys will listen and vary up what they do, but there are always a couple who only want to do what they are comfortable with, or what they feel like will look good. Stupid and childish way to think, but by choosing to NOT practice both, they may be costing themselves a job down the line.
Also, do a LOT of practice with the 'dry run'. Power off, thinking about rod angles and muscle memory. Don't rush through this, and don't think that once or twice is enough. Ten to fifteen times EACH, with a full rod, half rod and short rod is what you need to do. Remember, you are teaching your body to do something it finds difficult and doesn't want to do. It takes time and patience.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Gary
VincenzioVonHook
- VincenzioVonHook
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Cant agree more with the dry run practice. I just went at it my first few times. Managed but was a bit sketchy re-positioning half way through a root.....
I will on occasion take a rod and put it in the stinger at about half way down the rod. I then bend it at the stinger to get the flux off and reposition it in the stinger on the new spot there by making a short rod to start with. This may seem wasteful but it often helps in finding a good position on your off side. Gets your hands closer to the pipe and gives you a little more control. It also means you have to move your hands less as you keep good rod angle.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh