Welding Tips and Tricks

I am trying to get into the pipeline welding here in ohio. I gotta take a 6G - downhill on 2" and 6" pipe with 1/16" rootopening and 1/16" landing. I know its 6010 root pass and 8010 the rest of the way out. Any suggestions or tips that anyone can help me with. Thanks.

Where you at bunk? Who are you testing for? Have you welded open root before? What part do you need the most help with?

hey nick thanks for the reply. im in canton ohio. they are running pipe for the utica project through carrolton ohio and several other counties. ive been welding for about 23 years. i just got laid off from timken as a maintenance welder for 14 years. looking to make a move and try to get into the pipeline welding. and yes i have welded open root tests before but its always been uphill. not to sure on the downhill welding of the pipeline test. or what all it consists of for prep, setup if im beveling the coupons or anything. just need some info and help on what im looking at and what im getting into. thanks

Well I'm not too far away from you down here in Tusc county. The differences are not huge. The bevel is close to the sam just a little tighter. All the guys I know running downhill use 3/32" 5p+ rods for the root and size up on the way out. Like move to 1/8 etc you'll hafta figure what works best for you. Keep it extra tight on the root and use about a 20 degree drag travel. Its pretty much the same the whole way out with most allowing a weave for a cap. I'm working on getting into the same thing. As soon as I have my insurance straight I will be testing for columbia and dominion. If you dont have you own rig then you will need to get in with somebody. You may need the help of a contractor anyway to get onto the pipelines around here. I am working with wengers from dalton. They take welders either way rig or no rig. Maybe a good place to start if you don't have any connections yet. Talk to Dan. If you want some good pointers call Gary at Akron Testing Lab. I took his advanced pipe course. He knows what he is talking about. Tell him Nick from Sugarcreek sent you up there. If you need any other help you can pm me here and I will try to help.

Thanks Nick for the info. I need all the help I can get. I'm going into this blind and dont really have a clue what I'm doing yet. I'm talking with a guy from Texas that is the jobsite foreman over in carrolton. He said they need welders but cant get nobody to pass the test. I gotta have a rig though, so I'm tryin to get something set up so i can atleast get over there and take the test. I'm thinkin of just throwing my old welder in the back of my truck with some bottles and torch and sayin lets weld bro. LOL. I need a rig actually just to go take the test one day. I cant see puttin all the money into building a truck and i havent passed the test yet. Do you know of anyone with a cheap rig for sale, or even a truck i could put my welder and stuff on. I have an old 1962 lincoln sa 200 red face. It runs and welds like a dream. If you got time or want to you can call me @ (330)-209-4756. I would like to chat with ya for a bit and ask more questions if you dont mind. Thanks again buddy.

I'm actually gettin a more permanent truck for myself together. I am currently working off of my dad's Z71. Like I said before I'm just workin on getting my insurance together to take my tests. I would be surprised if you can get work on the pipeline with your own rig and no insurance. Wengers told me that they won't even send me to test without that in place. How much is this guy payin for a guy and his rig? Maybe I'll hafta give you a call. We can talk over coffee or somethin. I know the tests for columbia and dominion are tuff. You have to do the regular 12" butt joint plus a 12" branch "T" and a 6" hot tap with 7018 fill and cap. I dont know what all his test consists of but if all it is is a butt joint then that is the easiest to learn to do right.

Hey Nick, hows it going bud. I still gotta get all my insurance and everything together yet. problem is like i was sayin, i just need some way to go take the test and make sure i pass it before i go buying a truck rig. thats a lot to borrow and not s.ure if i got the job or not.lol.these guys pay 40hr for welder himself and 50 an hr for your rig. He told me when i get a rig together, come see him and i can go take the test. so thats what I'm tryin to do right now. you dont know anyone who would rent a rig out long for me to go and test out. My cousin owns midvale speedway and has some good money. He is going to buy me a rig set up soon as i pass the test. i dont really have the money to get it myself so i kinda got to depend on him which sucks but hey i guess thats how i gotta do it. And yea coffee sounds good sometime, maybe between the 2 of us puttin our heads together can land both of us a good job. hollar back at me or call. have a great day.

What union is that? I'd be willing to pair up on my truck for the test if you want or I can rent it to you. Do you know what joints are in the test? I would be surprised if its just a butt weld test. Most guys soar through the butt weld but then get hung up on the inverted t joint or the hot tap. I am busy this week with auger build ups. I've been told by another pipeliner that I know that the test will usually take you the better part of 3 days. Really all you would need for the test is your grinders, your SA200 and leads, a torch set and some basic hand tools. Maybe take your pipe stands too if you have em cuz I dont know if the testing facility will have a pipe stand. I wouldn't ever buy an expensive truck to put in the oil field or on the pipeline. I want one that they can hook the dozer to and drag around and it wont bug me to get dented or scratched. Forget payments I dont owe a dime on any of my equipment and it welds just as good as anybody elses brand new truck and welder that they will pay on for the next five years. My preference you do whatever you want. I'll get ahold of you the first of the week maybe. I kinda want to drop off the SA I just bought at Arc and Engine and have him go through it........ maybe. Gotta see what I can do to it first.

Hey nick, sounds good to me buddy. Just give me a call when ever you get a minute next week and maybe we can get together and work something out bud. I just got my 1962 red face sa 200 running tonight. It sat for about 10 years and had gas left in it. I cleaned out the whole fuel system, put a rubber gas line with an inline filter on it. Rebuilt the carberator with new seals, seats, jets, everything cuz it was just all gummed up and tarnished. Put new plugs, wires, cap, roter button, points, condensor, and a coil. It turned over 2 revolutions, fired up and just purred like a kitten. I couldnt believe it after all them years. I got a good friend that walked me through re timing it. He has a shop and has been workin on them for over 15 years an he is a lot cheaper than chuck over at arc and engine. Just lettin ya know. Anyways, give me a ring next week and we'll see whats up. Thanks again bud for your help. Bunk.

Ahhhhh the purr of an old SA. Yeah they never give up until a rod is hangin through the oil pan. Mine is a black face not a red but still same old continental engine and over sized armature. Only difference is the black face isn't all copper and the red face is. Id like to talk to this guy you have been talkin to. Id be interested to hear what he has to say about the test.

Yea it sounded great bud. now i gotta see how it welds tomorrow. I'm waiting to talk to that guy myself about the test. He's back home right now with his family on vacaa. I need to know what size rods they are running for root, hot, fillers, and cap. I dont know if they have coupons already beveled, or if i gotta bevel them myself. I dont know what to do if i gotta bevel them cuz i dont have a pipe beveler set up. who knows. if you would happen to know any of this, hollar back at me if you would. I would really appreciate it. Well gotta go bud, hollar back when ya can. Bunk.

Usually the test coupons are beveled you just hafta tack em up and go. If not I have access to pipe bevelers no biggie. If there is a t involved the you hafta profile the pipe and cut the hole. That one is usually what takes the most time. Most guys I know are running 3/32 6010 for the root and 1/8 fill then 5/32 cap. The cap is the only place they would go to 7010 or 8010. At least that I have ever heard of. But you know engineers. Lincoln 6010 5p+ is about the best rod to run in my opinion. Just some of the stuff I have gotten from talkin to other guys. I run some hippies (red 6010) but I would prefer the 5p+ too.

Hey bud, i know that the test is 2" and 6" scheduled 80 pipe in a 6G position. I also know its 6010 root and 8010 the rest of the way out, all downhill. Dont know what size rods though. I just went and got some 2" sch.80 pipe and got my buddy machineing the bevel on them for me. each piece has a 30° bevel, 60° overall. Also has a 1/16 landing and a 1/16 root opening. I just got a 10lb container of 1/8" 6010 5p but cant afford the 8010 right now. that stuff is like 4.60 a lb. and you can only buy it in a 50lb box. I wanted to kbow if you had access to any of that or know anyone who does that might sell me some to practice with. ok bud i gotta go pick up my coupons, just wish i had some darn 8010. Ok hollar at me later on bud if ya can. Bunk.

In my experience, 8010 is easier than 6010.

With a 1/16" root gap, and an 1/8" 6010, I'd personally run about 105A, 90* to the pipe, and jamb it in like I was trying to poke a hole. Jamb in and pull down, and the rod will do all the work. Gotta pay attention at the tacks, though, to tie them in. I like to cut the ends with a 1/16" cut-off wheel to a razor-edge.

Your mileage may vary.

Steve S.

I dont know if my friend has any 8010 or not. He would be the only one outside of a store that I know of. Hes pretty much exclusively a 6010 welder though. Believe me on this and you know it too if you welded uphill a lot before that 6" is rather simple its the 2" that will bust your balls because the angle changes so quickly on you. I will be up your way (actually streetsboro) on tuesday. Hafta go reinforce some trusses for an a/c unit. Maybe we can catch some coffee when I'm done.

That would be great if your buddy would have some 8010. I will buy it from him if he will sell me some. and yea that sounds great to me on coffee when your done tuesday. I'm down in new philly all the time and at midvale speedway workin. hell i grew up in beach city and outside dundee so I'm pretty familiar with the area down that way too if ya wanna meet for some coffee down that way. I got my buddys 305 g lincoln to practice and take the test with. it has the downhill pipe setting right on it which is cool. well gotta go bud. let me know if you need my ph. # again.

Hey steve s, thank you for the info bud, everything you guys tell me helps a lot. i jyst got home from getting my coupons cut and machined down so i can get some arc time in. now i can run the root but still screwed till i can locate some 8010. Thanks again for your help buddy. bunk.

Found some 8010 rod. That place in new philliy, gemstone gas. His name is rich. He is a good dude, he busted open a box and sold me 20lbs for 60 bucks cash. time to make some smoke today.

Anybody have aa rough idea on the amperage for the 5 /32" 8010? I'm doin good with the 1/8" 6010 @ around 106 amps.

I'd start around 135-140 and feel it out from there. If you like 106 for the 1/8 6010, I'd start 140 and work up 'til comfortable.

Just a starting point, as I've never met two of us who do it exactly the same.

Steve S.

I'm really struggling with blowing through on my root pass. i kicked it down some and it just keeps wanting to stick on me, but if i go up at all I'm burning through. any suggestions from anyone. Runnin the down hill is sure different than up with a root opening. and does anyone know exactly what the bevel is supposed to be on my 2 pieces.I thought it was supposed to be 37.5 on each side. any suggestions on that. ok, thanks for all the help guys. Bunk.

You have the right bevel. For the gap 1/16" is a good tight gap. I am a little surprised that they dont give you more land though. Usually its 1/8 even for a tighter gap like 1/16. If you are on 2" pipe remember that the coupon is soaking up all of that 105 or whatever amps you are putting into it. That tends to he the problem with running 1/8" rod on a downhill root. At least until you get to the actual 40 foot pieces of pipe. This is one good reason to switch to the 3/32 rod for the rood. Run a 3/32 at 75-80 amps and let it breathe between rods. Keep it really tight like you are trying to force it through the gap do a slight drag angle and keep movin so that you hear the rod blowin through the gap. Running uphill you have the puddle behind you that you are pullin up with you. Downhill you have the puddle pushin back at you as you try to penetrate the gap properly. One of the best little tidbit I ever got was "if it starts to feel like its gonna blow out.... stop.... let it breathe.. feather the end... and try again". Nobody is going to fail you or make fun of you. Or chew you out cuz you didnt burn the rod one end to the other or make it completely from top to bottom. But they will get after you for blowing it out and failing the joint and having to grind the whole thing out and fix it.

Well thanks a lot for the info buddy. I'm gonna give it a shot in the morning and see what i come up with. I'm starting to think that this 305 ranger isnt keeping a steady amp. the meter is all over the place and it seems good for a minute then its like its surging and then i blow through my pieces. I'm going to get my sa 200 back tomorrow morning then going to try it again. thanks again bud.

Check to make sure you are all set the way you need to be on the ranger. Its a cc/cv welder and if you are in cv mode it will really goof with the amps and will net stick weld right at all. I run into that sometimes when I run my suitcase mig then switch to stick welding and forget either the process switch or to switch from the cv port to the cc port for the hot lead.

Yea i had it set to the downhill pipe setting and tried cc also and kept gettin the same crap. I got my sa200 back now and it runs like a dream. It just lays it in there like butter. What do you use to space your root opening at 1/16. I been useing a quarter and I'm thinking that maybe its a little to thick, whats your opinion bud. I finally got a hold of a friend of mine that has worked for bi con for over 20 years and he said about a dime thickness. does that sound right to you? I dont know how picky the guys giving these tests are or nothing. if ya would yell back at me. thanks bunches. Phill.