Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to find some info on a Victor torch. Model# CA-350 (handle) WH-360c (cutting attachment) that I inherited from my father in law. I’m new to torches so I’d like to read up on it so I don’t mess it up. The Victor website does not list it. I tried on another board and they suggested to try ESAB. Still no response from them, but it was Friday evening so they were probably closed for the weekend. The guy at Airgas asked if I had a account, I said no, said just buy new and walked back behind the counter. I’ll never go there again.
Is it obsolete?
Is it comparable to a 315FC/CA2460 that’s in the Victor catalog?
Is it worth having It rebuilt?
I’m not a spammer or troll, I’m just trying to find some info as Im wanting to learn how to use it.
And yes I have his bottles, hoses, victor 450 series gages, various tips, tip cleaners, striker, and looks like shade 5 goggles that I found info on.

It’s pretty rare to wear out or damage a torch handle beyond repairing. Most unrepairable damages would be obviously visible, with exception to internal threads. Have you tried to run it? There are several places that rebuild torches, I think there’s even a few that sell parts. I’ll see if I can find a link to one. There was a thread a while back on this as well, I just can’t remember if they said where they sent there torch.

https://regulatortorchrepair.com/regula ... d-service/

Plus there are a few good utube videos. They might help you understand what needs to be checked to see if it needs to be repaired.

Thank you, I found a place to rebuild it. Regulator torch repair in Georgia. Seems like a lot of people like them, I also left them a message and the website had a generic torch price, the price isn’t bad at $75-$85 for standard rebuild (all the soft parts). I know Victor is a good brand, I just want to make sure it’s worth it to rebuild.

I'd be figuring first if it "needs" rebuilt. Start with a video on basics and safety. Don't turn on the gas till watching this if you're not familiar with O/A. How you turn things on IS important.

Also, remember the golden rule, "A before O or up you go!" LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOYQEg9SXoA

Then, not mentioned in the video above, get a cup of water with some dish soap in it and a paint brush, and start checking everything for leaks. First, check the tank to regulator connections. Then, after the gas is on, check the low pressure side fittings. Right up to the torch handle fittings and valves.

Once you have that leak check done, you'll know if there's any reason for a rebuild. (I doubt there is). Do a leak check every time you swap a tank or do any fitting changes. I wouldn't worry so much about the cutting torch head, since that's downstream of the O/A valves on the torch itself. It's also only got another stop for the oxygen, not the acetylene. So, the gas is controlled 100% at the torch base. Those valves being brass are unlikely to leak.

Good luck.

Well I got the answer from ESAB...

Marciano,
The WH370/CA350 are our second tier version of the 315FC/CA2460. They are heavy duty. As far as knowing how old they are I would need the date codes (2 letters) stamped into the back side of the bodies. They have been obsolete for about 5 years or so now. I have attached handle and cutting attachment instructions.

Guess I’ll see if the guys at regulatortorchexchange can rebuild it anyway.

BugHunter wrote:I'd be figuring first if it "needs" rebuilt. Start with a video on basics and safety. Don't turn on the gas till watching this if you're not familiar with O/A. How you turn things on IS important.

Also, remember the golden rule, "A before O or up you go!" LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOYQEg9SXoA

Then, not mentioned in the video above, get a cup of water with some dish soap in it and a paint brush, and start checking everything for leaks. First, check the tank to regulator connections. Then, after the gas is on, check the low pressure side fittings. Right up to the torch handle fittings and valves.

Once you have that leak check done, you'll know if there's any reason for a rebuild. (I doubt there is). Do a leak check every time you swap a tank or do any fitting changes. I wouldn't worry so much about the cutting torch head, since that's downstream of the O/A valves on the torch itself. It's also only got another stop for the oxygen, not the acetylene. So, the gas is controlled 100% at the torch base. Those valves being brass are unlikely to leak.

Good luck.

Thanks for the response, the only thing I see wrong with it is the oxygen valve on the cutting attachment is bent. I did a leak test and no leaks, but still want all the O-rings changed and checked out.

Chano65 wrote: Thanks for the response, the only thing I see wrong with it is the oxygen valve on the cutting attachment is bent. I did a leak test and no leaks, but still want all the O-rings changed and checked out.

It is smart to spend $100 on having them "rebuilt" and inspected. Sitting idle for some prolonged amount of time, unknown storage conditions, can rot the seals. Safety is always the best course of action given you got them so inexpensively to begin with.

cj737 wrote:

Chano65 wrote: Thanks for the response, the only thing I see wrong with it is the oxygen valve on the cutting attachment is bent. I did a leak test and no leaks, but still want all the O-rings changed and checked out.

It is smart to spend $100 on having them "rebuilt" and inspected. Sitting idle for some prolonged amount of time, unknown storage conditions, can rot the seals. Safety is always the best course of action given you got them so inexpensively to begin with.

Well he did take care of his stuff, but I’ve had them in my shed since he passed, over 4 years ago. Here in a Houston Texas is gets into the high 90’s to low 100’s. And at aver 30 years old, I’m sure the Viton orings are needing replacement. $81 is cheap insurance, as my son wants to learn how to use it. Gonna find a class for him to learn as soon as it comes back.


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