Welding Tips and Tricks

anyone used these new style multipurpose cut off saws?

been looking at the dewalt one and looks good
just want to know how well they go with cutting true

They cut good. take your time and dont overforce the blade through the cut and you get a perfect cut with no burrs. No blade deflection like the chop saw blades. Blabes are a little on the exspensive side.

thanks for the reply

have you used them with stainless pipe?

is that the same blade the sparky's use to cut their conduit? I was lookin at buyin somethin like that but am lookin at a cold saw instead.

kermdawg wrote:is that the same blade the sparky's use to cut their conduit? I was lookin at buyin somethin like that but am lookin at a cold saw instead.

i dont think so, could be wrong

these use a tungsten carbide-tipped blade come in 70-and 90 tooth i assume for mild and stainless applications

im told these are still classed as a cold saw

Interesting The cold saw I was lookin at was about 800 bucks, and this thing is about half the price. Looks like I'll have to do some research.

kermdawg wrote:Interesting The cold saw I was lookin at was about 800 bucks, and this thing is about half the price. Looks like I'll have to do some research.

what was the other saw you where looking at?

im trying to find more info on these aswell, im intrested know how square they cut stainless pipe
best i could find where reviews on amazon. some say they are fantasic others reckon no soo good (most complain about the blade lasting but they could be attempting to use them like a hotsaw)

if you find anything out more about these let me know

I've used saws like this, both wet and dry, and was impressed with both.

The blades are not inexpensive for either. Let the tool do the work. Don't get impatient and push the saw.

You'll be pleased with the quality of the cut.

Steve

Try as I might I cant find the damn site that I was lookin at the other day. Ill get back saturday and see if its on my other computer. Company started with an M I think :/

Blades for the cold saw look like their around 100 bucks. Definately need to be gentle on that thing.

As for how square they cut pipe? If its under 3 " or so yuo can do it all in one pass. Bigger pipe just take a wraparound and scribe a line along the whole pipe, then rotate the pipe and cut in sections. Its what we do with cast iron soil pipe on the job with the chop saw.

Kermdawg,
Here are some choices for you.

$$$
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/Baileigh_CS-225M.php
Try this link for a Baileigh CS-225M [$763.20)
90 deg = 2.5" Round Tube, 1.75" Round Bar, 2.25" Square Tube
45 deg = 2.125" Round Tube, 1.5" Round Bar, 2.0" Square Tube

$$$$
Dake Cut 250, 10" Cold Saw, [$2,565.00]
90 deg = 2-3/4" Round Tube, 1-1/4" Round Bar, 2-1/2" Square, 3-7/8"x1-3/4 Rectangle
45 deg = 2-3/8" Round Tube, 1.0" Round Bar, 2-1/8" Square, 2-1/2"x1-3/4 Rectangle

$$$$
Doringer D300, 12" Cold Saw [$ not sure]
90 deg = 3.75" Round Tube, 2.5" Round Bar, 3.3" Square Tube, 2.45" Rectangle
45 deg = 3.5" Round Tube, 2.5" Round Bar, 3" Square Tube, 2.0x4.0" Rectangle
I have personally tried the 14" version of this saw, it is amazing how it cuts and leaves a 'milled' finish.

$$$$$
Scotchman: $4,495.00 to $24,995.00

Wob

That baleigh looks like the same one I was lookin at. Differant web site though. Still cant find the site I was looking at before. Little cheaper too

kermdawg,

I found this today.
http://www.coldsawstore.com/sawblevma.html

Hope this helps.

Wob

If you're a non production do-it yourselfer then a 12" dual compound mitre saw with the Freud ferrous metal and non-ferous metal blades work pretty well. Repeatability is good enough if you build a fixture. These saws won't last long in a production shop because the motors are not totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) and eventually metal dust an chips will get in to it and short it out. TEFC Motors and blade speed is basically the only difference you'll find in a metal vs. wood vertical bands saws. Horizontals are a different story and have their uses but are becomming less popular now that the problems with dry saws, (except heat) are sorted out. A wet saw has special space and plumbing requirements that only serious shops are willing to invest in but it is the ultimate solution for speed, accuracy, repeatability and controlling the cut edge heat affected zone.

Regarding the dual compound vs. single.. If you're whacking away at a 25' piece of t-bar it's really nice to not have to flip either the material or the saw every other cut when the cuts are beveled or as was my case when I became enlightend, compound mitered.

Holy hell, that'll save me from buyin a whole new saw! I already got a single bevel miter saw at my house that my brother gave me cause it was froze up (all it needed was some good old WD40 and some TLC). Imma go buy one of them blades at homey depot and try it out when I get home later in the week.

As far as Band saws go, I'm so used to a portaband I couldnt think of usin anything else (less your in a production shop or somethin). Cheap, easy to use, go anywhere, cut damn near anything. Im just tryin to find a good price on one, sein as how my bud got one at the pawn shop for 100 bucks I cant justify spendin 400 on one. Throw in a couple pipe vises and your good for all the small stuff.

I have a 90-tooth TCT blade. It didn't work well for cutting 304 Stainless. I haven't used it for much else beyond Aluminum.

--Bill the metal creator

While on the subject of cuttin metal-A while back I had a job that required me to drill a hole bout 1-1/2 in a stainless steel sink. No prob, done it hundreds of times. Only this sink was 18 guage. Had a brand new hole saw and arbor bit, and it destroyed both of em. I did my best to keep em cool while I was drillin too, only drilled about 10 seconds at a time and let the heat cool down before I resumed.

Any suggestions for drilling through the thicker guage stuff? Only think I know of is those electricians punch/knock out sets, but they are expensive

Try the Milwaukee brand bi-metal hole saw. Every now and then I have to put a 2" hole through 7/16 304 SS and the Milwaukee has given me the best results so far with the money the company is willing to spend. I've gotten as many as three holes from one saw.

The ideal cutting speed is 50 RPM, so a variable speed drill, preferably w/ gear reduction, is a must, and at low speeds you'll have to let the drill cool more than the saw. I cut dry (no oil) and if the cut depth gets close to the tooth height, you have to lift often to clear chips.

Steve

Thats the one I used. I dont know the rpms of my drill though. I think the low setting is around 150 or so, and the higher setting is 1500. I use the high setting for the pilot and the low setting for the actual drilling.

I did not have gear reduction on mine though. I guess next time I need to drill one Ill borrow a buds right angle drill.

I find low RPM and a lot of pressure, like in a drill press, works well. In the thin section you're cutting, heat buildup, as you mentioned, is your enemy. Is it possible to make the cut under water?

Steve

Well not entirely no. I have found using some oil helps though, just didnt have any on me at the time.

Im gonna research the alloy of that sink to find out what kind of SS it was, cause I've never seen a piece of metal do this to a holesaw before.

edit-looks like its 304. Still never had this problem before oh well. I think I'm gonna try to invest in a hole punch kit.

To All,

The carbide tipped blades for the Multipurpose Cut saw are expensive (150-200).
The saws (brand name) can run 400-600.

Instead stick with a Portable Band Saw (like the Milwakuee deep cut (4-7/8") 299.
Blades are around $7.00 each, or cheaper if you shop.

Then add a Band Saw stand from Swag Off Road.com and turn it into a vertical band saw with a miter gauge. The saw can be installed and removed from the stand in about 20 seconds. Just another path you might consider.
WOB

Hell Jody had a video a couple weeks ago on buildin one of those porta band stands yerself for like 20 bucks I think it was, and it was trick you could customize it however you wanted.

Ya I would like a portaband too

kermdawg wrote:Hell Jody had a video a couple weeks ago on buildin one of those porta band stands yerself for like 20 bucks I think it was, and it was trick you could customize it however you wanted.

Ya I would like a portaband too

kermdawg,
I did see the stand in the projects directory, it was very simple and useful. But you really can't compare that stand to the one from Swag Off Road.
Take a look at their web site (http://www.swagoffroad.com) and read how it is constructed, you will see that this is a heavy stand providing a stable platform for sawing. SOR also offers an optional miter gauge track and a simple but effective on/off switch (most likely from Harbor Freight).

Troy, who owns SOR is a Mechanical Engineer, and his product designs are evidence of his capability to see a need and build a solution.
Check out their web site, I know you will be impressed.

Wob

http://www.swagoffroad.com/Arbor_Press_Plates.html

Those plates gave me wood. 1-1/2 thick forged steel. mmmmmm

How about the Rage Evolution range??

I have one of their mitre saws. Mainly used on wood, but it is fitted with multi-purpose blade that cuts steel too. The mitre blades are rated for only a couple of hundred cuts on steel, but they do a specific chop saw that is rated for a thousand cuts. They are a lot cheaper than the name brands so might interest a hobbiest or small business.

http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/uk/index.html

Check them out. I'm happy with mine and cost me less than half price of a name brand single purpose mitre saw. Replacement blades on the mitre saw is around £25 last time I checked. Still need to use it more with steel so will see how long the blade lasts.

Clint.