This arrived recently, made in USA! Its every bit of the advertised 49 lbs. Pretty happy with it so far, it does need a fine adjustment modification for height, already purchased the parts for that at my local hardware store. Also gave TIG welding aluminum a first try...FAIL!
Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
At least now you have a sweet tubing notcher, just notch out another tube and keep practising those aluminum welds! lol What did you have to do for the height adjustment?
Pete
Pete
Pete
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Nice buy!
What's the red crap inside the tubing?
What's the red crap inside the tubing?
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
I'll post a picture later today, but kept it simple. Underneath the tube notcher part that raises and lowers for adjusting I drilled another hole in my work table and secured a long bolt to the table. Then I ran a nylon lock nut down the bolt and put a 2 inch steel spacer on top of it which pushes the notcher up/down by adjusting the nylon lock nut up/down.pgk wrote:At least now you have a sweet tubing notcher, just notch out another tube and keep practising those aluminum welds! lol What did you have to do for the height adjustment?
Pete
Well it spit and sputtered and refused to puddle until I ground that bright finish off, then same settings (copied from a Jody video) it settled down and puddled. Maybe it needs more amps with that finish? I have 15 minutes experience TIG welding aluminum so keep that in mind. I wimped out by the way abandoned the aluminum and purchased some .035 wall stainless for that project.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm
If it's anodized then it should weld but you have to blast it with every amp you have at least initially to get through it - I rarely use the stuff but several here do & will likely chime in - I do it as basically a series of spot welds with the machine flat out on a torch switch - don't use a pedal if I can help it - I hate the thing & it's never convenient unless seated at a bench - the king of anodized does'nt seem to post here now - shame I really liked his work - maybe he is still around & lurking ! I like the notcher - is it wrong to have notcher envy ?
Start with gas. 30 cfph. I use 1/8th cerriated tungsten. I sharpen to a point then ball by switching to max cleaning (ep).Coolidge wrote:By all means thanks!
Set your ac balance to 70 percent (en).
This takes some practice.
Pick a starting point and run your heat up. I have had others watch for me and I usually go up to about 180 amps. You will see your anodizing start to break down. The arc usually favors one side. Reduce amps until you see the arc wander to the other side and break down that anodizing. I know it sounds crazy but it works. Once both sides are melting add filler and hold the heat for another second, until you see it flatten out. Reduce the heat until the puddle freezes. Not completely off like some videos show. Advance about 3/4 of the last puddle, start increasing the heat and add filler. Hold the heat and let the filler flatten out again.
Repeat this process for each step. You will use less heat as you go. Let the puddle be your indicator.
Let me know how it works for you and if you have any questions.
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Upgraded the Beast Tube Notcher with a steel machine stand I found on craigslist for cheap. That's a 24x30 5/8 thick ground steel fixture plate. I put my 24 inch Starrett rule across it, its still flat.
It had 50 plus years of grime, quite the chore sanding it down.
Here's the base and chip tray painted, I added some stem casters.
Drilled the 3 5/8 inch holes for the tube notcher on the new mill/drill.
Picked this up from the previous owner Friday afternoon, finished and ready for service Sunday afternoon. I'm going to let the paint bake in my hot garage for a few days.
It had 50 plus years of grime, quite the chore sanding it down.
Here's the base and chip tray painted, I added some stem casters.
Drilled the 3 5/8 inch holes for the tube notcher on the new mill/drill.
Picked this up from the previous owner Friday afternoon, finished and ready for service Sunday afternoon. I'm going to let the paint bake in my hot garage for a few days.
Nice. I have a Beast as well, and yea setting the height can sometimes be a pain without an extra hand.
It is significantly dirtier now a days, since it sits outside, but I give it a good oiling every now and then when I use it.
It is significantly dirtier now a days, since it sits outside, but I give it a good oiling every now and then when I use it.
Nice. How much does it cost per pound?Coolidge wrote:TIG with carbon fiber filler rodOscar wrote:how you gonna weld up that carbon fibre tube?Coolidge wrote:I used mine the other day to cope some carbon fiber tubing with a diamond hole saw.
GreinTime
- GreinTime
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Fri Nov 01, 2013 11:20 am
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Location:Pittsburgh, PA
My leg guy at one point told me the prosthetic main body was aluminum. As I found out, it is not. Not only will carbon fiber conduct amperage after a certain threshold, the resin is typically shellfish based (the ones I've used at least) and it emits a nasty puff of smoke...Oscar wrote:Nice. How much does it cost per pound?Coolidge wrote:TIG with carbon fiber filler rodOscar wrote: how you gonna weld up that carbon fibre tube?
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-=Sam=-
-=Sam=-
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