Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
Troy Boy 72
- Troy Boy 72
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Joined:Thu Dec 31, 2015 7:22 pm
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Location:Mackay North QLD
Hey guys , I'm curious about some ways to cut aluminium sheet straight ( approx 1 to 5 mm thick ) I have a Makita compound saw with aluminium blade to cut square and round . Have tried the 40 amp plasma which is a little messy sometimes ( maybe more practise needed ) was thinking of small table saw with ally blade. would like to try and make some custom ally boxes . any advice would be appreciated. Cheers
- ldbtx
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Have you tried rigging a straightedge that you can slide your plasma torch along?
Miller Bobcat 225
Tweco Fabricator 211i
AHP AlphaTIG 200x
Lincoln SP-135+
Hypertherm Powermax 30 Air
ProStar O/A torch
Tweco Fabricator 211i
AHP AlphaTIG 200x
Lincoln SP-135+
Hypertherm Powermax 30 Air
ProStar O/A torch
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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I like a plain 'ol circular saw with a 40 tooth carbide blade. A fence helps with straightness.
Steve S
Steve S
plain ol Bill
- plain ol Bill
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Joined:Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:46 pm
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I like a CNC plasma - BUT - if you don't have one I agree w/ Otto using a straight edge and saw.
Tired old welder
CNC plasma cutter
Colorful shop w/
Red, blue, yellow, purple, and Hypertherm silver equip.
CNC plasma cutter
Colorful shop w/
Red, blue, yellow, purple, and Hypertherm silver equip.
Troy Boy 72
- Troy Boy 72
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Joined:Thu Dec 31, 2015 7:22 pm
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Hey mate i have tried the straight edge and i think i just need to practise more with cutting speed and different amps. when i say messy i meant the bottom of the cut the dross i think you call it. I was lucky enough to score some small off cuts of some 3mm steel plate the other day , i know its not ally but its still practiseldbtx wrote:Have you tried rigging a straightedge that you can slide your plasma torch along?
Troy Boy 72
- Troy Boy 72
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Joined:Thu Dec 31, 2015 7:22 pm
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G'day Steve , i like that idea , does it have to be a an ally blade or can it be a wood carbide tipped blade with 40 or more teeth used with some lube . I think i seen something like that on Youtube somewhere ? CheersOtto Nobedder wrote:I like a plain 'ol circular saw with a 40 tooth carbide blade. A fence helps with straightness.
Steve S
Troy Boy 72
- Troy Boy 72
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Hey Bill , I can only dream of cnc plasma its awesome to watch isn't it but I'm only a newbie in the back yard shed at the moment i think i try a little harder and use what i have got . cheersplain ol Bill wrote:I like a CNC plasma - BUT - if you don't have one I agree w/ Otto using a straight edge and saw.
- MinnesotaDave
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I agree with circular saw and I also use a table saw and jig saw.
Make darn sure your fence is straight on a table saw and wear glasses and face shield - those little shards are sharp!
Make darn sure your fence is straight on a table saw and wear glasses and face shield - those little shards are sharp!
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
...and HOT! Forgot to mention full body armor....MinnesotaDave wrote:I agree with circular saw and I also use a table saw and jig saw.
Make darn sure your fence is straight on a table saw and wear glasses and face shield - those little shards are sharp!
best, cheapest, fastest way is:
Step 1: VERY IMPORTANT - ear plugs, ear muffs, goggles, face shield, fully covered with no skin exposed.
Step 2: Break out the circular saw with a 0 degree rake high tooth count carbide blade.
Step 1: VERY IMPORTANT - ear plugs, ear muffs, goggles, face shield, fully covered with no skin exposed.
Step 2: Break out the circular saw with a 0 degree rake high tooth count carbide blade.
Ryan
Miller Dynasty 350 w/wireless pedal
Miller 350P with standard torch and XR-Aluma-Pro
Miller Multimatic 200 w/spool gun w/wireless pedal
Miller Spectrum 375 X-TREME
Smith torches
Optrel e684
Miller Digital Elite
Miller Weld-Mask
Miller Dynasty 350 w/wireless pedal
Miller 350P with standard torch and XR-Aluma-Pro
Miller Multimatic 200 w/spool gun w/wireless pedal
Miller Spectrum 375 X-TREME
Smith torches
Optrel e684
Miller Digital Elite
Miller Weld-Mask
- Otto Nobedder
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I just use a good quality carbide-tipped blade for cutting plywood/paneling, around 40 tooth is a good cut quality at a good cut speed.Troy Boy 72 wrote:G'day Steve , i like that idea , does it have to be a an ally blade or can it be a wood carbide tipped blade with 40 or more teeth used with some lube . I think i seen something like that on Youtube somewhere ? CheersOtto Nobedder wrote:I like a plain 'ol circular saw with a 40 tooth carbide blade. A fence helps with straightness.
Steve S
xryan mentions zero-degree rake; The importance of this increases with material thickness. In 1,5mm and under, almost any configuration will do. It is noisy, and you do need good protection from flying chips.
The last blade I dulled doing this lasted at least 80m of cut in thicknesses varying 2,3mm through 12mm.
Steve S
Heres how I cut aluminum. Draw the cut file, load the material, nest as many parts as I need, push the start button...then go do something else while the parts cut.
Jim Colt
Jim Colt
- ziplinecuts 008.jpg (65.55 KiB) Viewed 1681 times
I have done the circular saw route, with a 'sharp' fine tooth plywood blade. I put the blade on backwards, it chips off material rather than cutting, works for me, , , ,
-c-
-c-
Look! a hole in the space-time continuum!
The main difference of an aluminum cutting blade is that it has a ZERO or Negative rake to keep chips from building up in it. I have also used my Makita 6 1/2" cordless circular saw to cut aluminum using a narrow kerf carbide wood blade. It spins much slower than a plug in saw so it doesn't melt the aluminum but just cuts it.
Sent from mobile. Not responsible for Typos
Sent from mobile. Not responsible for Typos
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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Aluminium cutting with a saw calls for a negative rake tooth. Wood blades have a positive rake. This is done to keep the blade from grabbing the work piece. A positive rake blade can be used but it is not as safe as a negative rake.
What about a throttles shear? We used to use those in the Airforce (a while back for me) but they did a good job of cutting straight and contoured cuts. Not as fast as a saw but you'll only get straight cuts with a circular saw.
- AKweldshop
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Joined:Wed Oct 23, 2013 3:30 pm
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Location:Palmer AK
Skil saw all day long.
Diablo metal cutting blade from home depot.
You can cut as fast as you can push....
Diablo metal cutting blade from home depot.
You can cut as fast as you can push....
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
- AKweldshop
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Depends how much time you have.Coldman wrote:What thickness of steel can you cut with that diablo blade?
1/2" isn't to bad.
Slow is key if you want to make the blades last.
Torch or plaz would be a better choice if your cutting lots of heavier plate
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
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