[Studio2bn]

A newbie here.....and glad to have found this forum...Great forum and great info....Firstly...I am getting older and have do desire to become a pipeling welder ( Though I WISHED I could make the kinda money you Pros make !!! ) This will be just for design and making of steel and wood furniture hobby shop and a 1 man show...


I just purchased a Makita LC1230 saw.....Now here is my question...I will attempt to keep it brief so as to not drive some of you pros crazy !!! Thanks ahead of time !!!

!) Was buying the Makita LC1230 the best decision for my usage ???. Since I haven't even taken it out of the box yet ? Is this model safe for cutting angle iron...and how the hell do you cut a 45 miter with angle iron on this saw accurately ?

I stick welded decades ago...and I am getting back into Mig/flux ...Lincoln 3200HD.....I am coming from the creative arena and have worked for years on what is called a " Phaedra " system for cutting picture frame moulding at all degrees and angles...and for accurancy and production these systems will spoil you !!! I mean badly...They make life so easy . But that was wood ....and now I have got to figure out how to make the transaction into cutting steel .

Now I am/will be producing " Industrial Style Furniture" in various styles and shapes in wood and steel..Most angle iron will be made into what will look like a picture frame.....I noticed " Anvil Hammer " (?) had mentioned that he does a lot of 45 miter cuts..Hope he jumps in or I may PM him.....45 Miters is what I will be doing a lot of....I have noticed when I mention this on most other forums.... folks just jump in and say " HELL, YOU DON'T NEED THAT ...LET ME TELL YOU WHAT YOU NEED !!! " Cope that corner and slap that weld in there...will be strong as a bridge !!! That is not what I looking for and that is not what I need...I do need a certain degree of structural strength...but I am not building Air Craft Carriers !!!.... And for what I am doing I need/want 45 miters on the 1- 1 1/2 X 1/8 inch angle and tube stock.....

I wanted to get a Hypertherm 30Xp for its ability with "Drag Tip Technology " to be able to cut thinner metals like I work with like butter !!! That.... and come on....Jim " Colt " has a dog named " Ruger !!! " Anyway, the plasma cutter is wwwwaaaaaayyyy out of my budget right now...So.......

So...taking into consideration that I have a workable Mig machine....And a Makita LC 1230 still in the box until I figure out if I bought the wrong thing......What and how do any of you guys/gals think would be my best approach at cutting angle iron/tube stock at 45 miters....considering safety....cost ...and the fact of production time for a 1 man shop..

Help Me !!!

Thanks for all your time and help

Gulf Coast Guy/ Studio2bn

[Studio2bn]

I just hope you folks don't count off for spelling !!! Of course I am originally from Alabama so you do have to take that into consideration !!!

1969 Speling Be Champeeun.....

[jcw]

Following. I'm seriuosly considering one as well. And getting a table for it as well.

[Studio2bn]

To jcw....

So what was your reasoning for deciding to buy the LC 1230 ?

[jcw]

I haven't yet.

Not sure if I want a chop saw or a portaband with a table.

ideally both!

[Studio2bn]

Well.....I guess I will continue to answer my own post !!! Just wish I had something useful to say....

I am just trying to figure out how to pull the idea off without taking out a HELOC !!!

Just clean....somewhat accurate miters....while being safe and it not costing me a lot to operate....

See....you really can't answer your own questions !!!

Somebody has got to have an answer...a reply....a suggestion....Bueller....Ferris Bueller....Bueller.......

Chime in here folks !!!

[noddybrian]

Welcome to the forum Studio2bn

Due to working hours & time difference around members locations don't expect instant answers - it take a little while but people will always chime in & help once they catch up.

The saw you have looks fine for general cutting including miters - I don't have that model but virtually all the carbide tipped cut off saws produce nice clean cuts with minimal clean up & little blade deflection so should produce accurate cuts - they're only let down by the fence & angle markings - if accuracy is your primary goal I would look at a swivel head horizontal bandsaw

swivel bandsaw.jpg (6.29 KiB) Viewed 2273 times

Saws such as these will reliably produce miters but are quite expensive compared with the generic bandsaw with swivel vice like horrible fright sell - your chop saw could easily be improved though to achieve good results - all you really need to do is replace the rear fence with a suitable piece of angle iron that is longer so you have a decent contact area to hold you work against - this will stick out past the base casting - how long will depend on how much space you have - then you need to cut a quadrant out & fix to the left side of the base & mark around its edge accurate angle marks at the common angles you will use - this can be done once 90degrees is established with a good machine square by math / plotting or using a digital angle gauge - once you have the marks confirmed stamp a decent line in with a sharp chisel that is easily seen - I did one for a mate years ago & included a cut out window in the fence with a " cross hair " in to align with the marks - any number of solutions - I think there was a post a while back when someone " pimped " the horrible fright bandsaw in a similar way - how elaborate the set up is down to personal choice - the saws themselves will cut where they're aimed - only challenge is getting accurate placement of material to blade set to start with - hope this helps.

[AndersK]

I cant comment on the particular machine but more in general what to look for.
The clamping device is of the same type as many machines. I'm using an Evolution chop saw which have the same clamping device. The problem with that clamping device is when the acme screw doesnt follow the work piece as you angle it you loose a lot of clamping force at 45 degree angle which might lead to the material slides when cutting. It becomes more evident as the blade wears.

My advice to you is to test the machine at 45 degrees to see how it behaves. Dont worry if the markings isnt accurate enough.
Make a coupple of test cuts and measure angle, You'll then learn how to set it to get accurate mitres. Also get a roller stand if you are cutting long profiles too support the end other wise you wont get vertical cuts correct.

If you find the clamping too meet your expected standard I'm sure you have made the right decision.

[Studio2bn]

To: noddybrain

Thanks for all the input and guidance ...and my last post was really a somewhat lame attempt at humor !!!

I know it is going to take awhile to get some help and what I need and what will work for me.....I was just hoping that I had not jumped the gun with the LC1230 ....and the biggest situation I was having was the fact that I had been use to having a " Swivel" type miter saw that allowed to cut 45's from right or left with extreme accuracy.....A Phaedra System.

The day I after I bought the LC1230 a friend of mine was telling me that he had just bought a Milwaukee ....and on second cut it slung a piece of angle iron across the room and through his door !!! So, I was also wanting to know how safe this type saw was..taking into consideration that he has problems using a screwdriver !!!....and maybe what goofy thing he had done while attempting to use it !!! I do know we learn from listening and watching.....

Just trying to get settle down with some equipment that I can afford at this time ....and mostly get back to work !!!


Thanks again for your time and help

[Studio2bn]

To: NoddyBrian

Firstly....apology for referring to you as " Noddy Brain !!! "...Just notice it is NoddyBrian ....

Anyway....Do you know of any of the Vertical band saws that swivel from left and right....being able to cut a 45 to right side as well as left side ? If so.... is there one available that I would not have to sell a kidney to be able to buy !!!

I can only hope that there is something out there that is affordable and will cut 45's from left and right sides (?) And something that I would not have to re-engineer in order to get it to function.....

Thanks

[weldin mike 27]

Hey,

Just noticed the Ferris Bueler reference. Very nice. Comedy has really lost a bit since those days. (ted is on tv ATM, funny but also a little over the top)

I have a ryobi chop saw and ive used it to cut a few mitres, and had them be out of whack, The really do take a bit of brain work to find the best way to work them,(i havent got around to working it out.) not just clamp and cut.

Mick

[Studio2bn]

To: Weldin Mike 27


Thanks for your response ...

Well....like I said that I felt like I may have jumped the gun on buying the LC1230....because at this point I can't afford to have/purchase anything for my shop that is not making me money....

I think I just got the " Newbie Frustration Syndrome " and got in too big of a hurry.....But knowing that what I wanted to do would sell...and not being able to figure how to put the pieces of the puzzle together can get just a tad frustrating. I knew going in that the difference between cutting wood and steel are like daylight and dark.

I think the most frustrating part is trying to figure out how to get those workable 45's on angle iron....I know there has got to be a way because I have seen so many of them..just don't know how they did it.....And I always research it to death before I start asking for help like on this forum..I looked on Youtube forever trying to find some info as to how to approach this...All I found was just short vids showing how to cut a 90 on something....I just can't seem to find the magic formula for doing this....Hell...it looks like I would be just as well off with a grinder and a Metabo cutting disc !!!

So.....I am thinking about just taking it back until I can find out or figure out what I am doing ....I have come to the conclusion that I need to belong to some secret society....know the secret hand shake and password to get on the inside to know how to do this !!!

And then again....I may just be way out of my league......and need to just leave it alone....but I do know that it is something that I can make some money with....and that is why I have tried so hard to figure out and find out if this LC1230 saw is really going to help me that much....Or should I have bought something like the vertical band saw ???

Wish me luck...And thanks

[weldin mike 27]

Is it your vertical edge that is the problem or the actual 45° degrees angle? Don't take it back. We can work this out together.

Mick

[Studio2bn]

Weldin Mike 27

At this point I haven't even taken it out of the box !!! The day it was delivered I had talked to a guy who had bought a Milwaukee cold cut and had been trying to cut with it and slung some angle iron across the room and stuck in the door !!! Of course this guy I know can't even spell IQ !!! I just know him.... and he knows less than I do...which is sad...so he is no help in any way. And I don't think I will be going into his garage for anything !!!

So....I thought I need to check on this more....I have researched my butt off and nothing....So here I am looking for answers on how do I get those usable/weldable 45 degree miters on 1" X 1/8 " angle iron ??? And without getting myself mortally wounded !!!

The Makita LC1230 got great ratings....just no info anywhere as to how to cut 45 miters.....not even on the Makita website....So...I am open to any help from anybody before I load this thing up and head to Home Depot !!!

Thanks....and yes....I am in hopes of figuring this thing out .....

[weldin mike 27]

First off. The way to cut mitres on angle, or angle 3mm thick and under is to pack the angle in the vice with a piece of square tube the same as your angle. IE: 1" or 25mm angle = put a bit of 25mm square inside the angle, the length or longer than the jaw of the vice. Problem solved. This is pretty much the first thing apprentices get taught here in aus, but it never occurred to me that you wouldnt know it, due to your non metal background.

2. The cold cut tct saw is a savage beast. Remember the teeth are very similar to a wood mitre saw, and most likely spaced about 2mm apart. The perfect size for a bit of 1/8 angle to get lodged in if you are not careful. I somehow managed to get a metal fencing picket to slip under the teeth and get flung away. Not good.

3. I would use the trick that i mentioned first off, but extend the square tube past the line of your cut, so you are cutting the square tube AND the angle. This will stop the teeth from catching on the material. Happy time. Slow and steady.

I only have an abrasive drop saw but i will set up a pick for you.

Mick

[79jasper]

First off. The way to cut mitres on angle, or angle 3mm thick and under is to pack the angle in the vice with a piece of square tube the same as your angle. IE: 1" or 25mm angle = put a bit of 25mm square inside the angle, the length or longer than the jaw of the vice. Problem solved. This is pretty much the first thing apprentices get taught here in aus, but it never occurred to me that you wouldnt know it, due to your non metal background.

Mick

That's some good stuff. Never thought of that.
Never heard of it either.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

[weldin mike 27]

Some pictures for you hopefully the explain my ramblings

[Studio2bn]

Hey Mick....

Firstly....Thank you so much for taking your time to help me with this situation....And the pics of your miters look great....That was exactly what I was looking for !!! Just had no idea on how to get there.

No ...I have had NO experience in cutting any sort of metals with a saw....and I knew there was a big difference between a piece of wood being under tension and during the cut jumping out on me... than a piece of angle iron flying around the room !!! Truthfully, it made me a little nervous....I am too old to get whacked in the head with big ole piece of steel ...I survived my Ex-wife so I don't take as many chances as I use too !!! This has been surely frustrating up to now....Your explanation and pics have help me so much in how to approach this...and for that I am very thankful.

I did find another post on the Hobart forum of a 2008 post of a " Jig " a guy had made up with angle iron for 30 degree and was making 1 for his 45 degree miters....pretty impressive looking homemade jig that put him in perfect alignment.....but for the first time I did notice in his pics that the "Fences" on a vertical band saw are a lot more heavy duty...thicker....than the fences on these dry saws...and looked like the band saw would lend itself to safer working environment...but I don't have a vertical band saw ....so I am just going to have to work with what I have and pray......But I did wonder if that type of jig would work as well on the thinner wall fences....

I think " Your " ideas and approach are much better.....I am going to borrow all of them !!! And if you don't mind I may pick your mind from time to time.....since you have already gone through all of this .

Mick, Know that I appreciate all your time and help.....and if you ever need anything from the Florida Panhandle please let me know......My Sister is single...but she is old and looks a lot like " Donk " from the Mick Dundee Movie !!!

J Michael

[weldin mike 27]

Hey,

Not a problem mate, I'm glad I was able to help. Often people head off down track when giving info so I hope it was close.

If im ever in the US I'll pop over for a beer. Your sis sounds great. Much like most of the chicks over here.

Mick.

[Tassie Dave]

In Australia we have a Makita saw which comes on a swivel base for mitre cuts ( wood ). I don't know if this particular saw would suffice for doing metal work , even with a carbide blade in. ?
For portability the Makita range do offer chop saws but again all for Wood. I think.
Any ideas from members down Australia way would be helpful.
No offence to you guys in U.S.A. but buying stuff up your way hurts in the way of costs. Postage being the big , big killer.

[motox]

tips on cutting
might be helpful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1DYRWDVquo

[Plumber3690]

You have made one of the best purchases possible.
I have used this saw daily for the last 10 + yrs doing exactly what you are looking to do.
Once you get comfortable with it you will be able to dial it right in.
We cut channel, pipe, square tube, angle for frames, brackets, supports, unitstrut in carbon steel and stainless steel all day.
Blades are specific to the task and material as well as expensive.
With the proper cutting rate / pressure (minimum spark) they last a fair amount of time.
Cut is nearly burr-free with minimum clean up required.
No smell of the abrasive wheel is also a plus when working in an occupied space.
Advice you got earlier of utilizing a small piece of square tube inside of the vise when cutting angle iron is right on point.
Good luck!