[Goldchucker]

Gentlemen:

Can the abrasive cut off blade that comes standard with the DeWalt 14” cut of saw be replaced safely with the DeWALT 14 70T Heavy Gauge Ferrous Metal Cutting Circular Saw Blade - DW7747? Or: Do I need to purchase a new cut off saw specifically designed to use these ferrous cutting blades?

[AKweldshop]

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7747-14- ... B0000302QT

Nope,
Most abrasive saws are between 3,500 and 4,500rpm.

This blade your referring to is made for whats called an "cold-cut" saw, which runs 1,500 to 2,000rpm

Would burn the teeth right off.

Here's an alternative to regular abrasive blades (never used them, just heard good things about them)

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW8500-14- ... B004L3X9AU

IMVHO....

Although I get good results with a Dewalt abrasive saw, and regular cut-of wheels.

~John

[mcoe]

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7747-14- ... B0000302QT

Nope,
Most abrasive saws are between 3,500 and 4,500rpm.

This blade your referring to is made for whats called an "cold-cut" saw, which runs 1,500 to 2,000rpm

Would burn the teeth right off.

Here's an alternative to regular abrasive blades (never used them, just heard good things about them)

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW8500-14- ... B004L3X9AU

IMVHO....

Although I get good results with a Dewalt abrasive saw, and regular cut-of wheels.

~John

Depending on the verdict from my thread about chop saw versus band saw, I might have to invest in one of those blades eventually.

[Goldchucker]

Hi John,

Thank you for the prompt reply. Better safe than sorry. My 14'' abrasive cut off wheel works great for chop cutting but 45 degree angles on 1/8 x 3'' flat bar just heat hardens the material regardless of feed pressure. I may need to seek out alternative cut methods.

Chuck M.

[72novaproject]

I have the Milwaukie Dry cut saw and it is as close to having a machine shop tool I have ever had. I gave my abrasive saw to my son. I took the time to truly “Zero In” the saw as soon as I bought it and scribed lines on the base so I know exactly where 90, 45 and 22-1/2 degrees are. Like most of them if you need it more precise you will have to use a miter gauge to set it up for the cut.

The work piece comes out for the most part burr free except the very end of the cut has a little sliver on it. You can pick it up as soon as the piece or the waste falls off the end. It’s warm but not enough to burn your hand.

A while back we had to cut down a suspension spacer for my son’s car that was about an inch in diameter with a .250 wall thickness. We only needed to take about ¼’ off of it so we set up the saw and there was just a little stock striking out past the blade. I was concerned about blade walk but decided to give it a try. We pulled it through a little at a time visually checking the thickness of the waste piece. The piece that fell out was .018 in thickness, perfectly round and not wavy at all. I mic’ed it. I swear you could use this saw to make rear differential shims if you wanted to and had the right stock! Try that with an abrasive blade.

I recently had to make compound miter cuts on some roll bar tubing and I bolted a drill press vice to the base. I positioned the bent end of the tubing so I was actually cutting across two planes in relationship to the tubing. If you bring the blade very slowly into the work where it just nicks it a couple of times for a groove to stabilize the blade, you will get absolutely no blade walk whatsoever.

The draw backs? None that make it not worth the money in my opinion. However…

I was cutting some 2” X 2” X ¼” angle to make some reinforcements for my neighbors trailer and pretty much dulled the blade by the time I was finished with the project. We’re talking at least 30 to 40 cuts when I add it all up from memory and it wasn’t a fresh blade either. A new blade is around 125.00 but they can be sharpened for about 65.00. I keep a freshly sharpened blade on hand while the other one is at the saw shop. What I found works best with heavy stock is to just cut about ½” deep and lift the saw out of the work momentarily and then cut another ½” and repeat. Just that little relief from the cutting friction keeps the blade cool enough to not dull it prematurely. Even with that technique it makes that cut I would say 4 times as fast with no de-burring needed and you can pick it up and work with it as soon as it comes out of the saw.

Like all saws it does make a mess but it is not abrasive dust. It is almost microscopic metal slivers and they are hot when they leave the saw so wear long sleeves and safety glasses. I sweep them up and then use a magnet over the area and it’s clean as a whistle. I don’t want my grandkids getting metal splinters because my daughter would kill me.

Bear in mind this saw turns at half the speed of an abrasive saw so you can’t go back and forth with the consumables. I know a guy that uses these blades on his normal chop saw but I wouldn’t advise it on a number of levels.

If you haven’t guessed, I am a big fan of the saw for what that’s worth.

[Jonnie Fraz]

I will toss in my opinion. In my shop we have three Makita LC1230 dry cut saws. I have one for straight cuts one for angles and one I use mainly for 45's. I love this saw. We switched from abrasive saws about twelve years ago and have never looked back. Now that being said, they are expensive, so are the blades, they are loud, and let me tell you if you ever get so lucky as to get one of the hot chips up your nose...boy that will set you free.
Most of my material is .065" 1"x1" tubing, and I will get thousands of cuts out of a blade. I run the Tenryu blades. I believe they are the PRF-30560D 60 tooth for mild steel. I believe I get them for about $85.00.
For mild steel this is my go to saw. We have a medium sized horizontal band saw that sits 90% of the time, but I am glad I have it.