Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
I know that plasma cutters can do expanded metal mesh, some have specific settings for that, but has anyone done plastic/rubber coated mesh? does it interfere with getting an arc? when it burns does it foul the tip?
- Otto Nobedder
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I don't recommend it.
The plasma cutter can do it, without fouling the tip, as long as you hold back a bit and don't drag the tip. The "pre-arc" will melt the plastic out of the way until an electrical path for the plasma is established. It's a pain in the arse, and produces fumes, which may be toxic depending on the plastic. You'll also burn back the plastic for a distance from the cut.
Better options include a circular saw (4 1/2" trim-saw for tight quarters) with a carbide blade turned backward or fine-cut carbide blade set forward, or a cut-off wheel in a grinder. The best option may be the "duo-saw", that was sold in those irritating info-mercials, with the counter-rotating blades.
Or, if the metal is light enough, a good pair of metal shears and some elbow grease may be a good option.
A cold-chisel, BFH, and soft block (brass?) will do it on light metal, as well.
Steve S
The plasma cutter can do it, without fouling the tip, as long as you hold back a bit and don't drag the tip. The "pre-arc" will melt the plastic out of the way until an electrical path for the plasma is established. It's a pain in the arse, and produces fumes, which may be toxic depending on the plastic. You'll also burn back the plastic for a distance from the cut.
Better options include a circular saw (4 1/2" trim-saw for tight quarters) with a carbide blade turned backward or fine-cut carbide blade set forward, or a cut-off wheel in a grinder. The best option may be the "duo-saw", that was sold in those irritating info-mercials, with the counter-rotating blades.
Or, if the metal is light enough, a good pair of metal shears and some elbow grease may be a good option.
A cold-chisel, BFH, and soft block (brass?) will do it on light metal, as well.
Steve S
yes i have tried all those other methods and they work fine, the cutt-off wheel melts a bit too but no smoke. We also used some double actuated side-cutter, or as our old shop gofer called them "diagonals". I was just wondering about the validity if its more work/mess than I already have then I wont bother, thanks.
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
What is the dimensions of the mesh, a good way of cutting small mesh is a 9" grinder(With cutting wheel), because you can use the weight to hold it steady while you follow the line.
Mick
What is the dimensions of the mesh, a good way of cutting small mesh is a 9" grinder(With cutting wheel), because you can use the weight to hold it steady while you follow the line.
Mick
it's .5"x.5" mesh 3/32 i think. I've use a cut off wheel before .5x.5 is a lot easier to cut that was cause there is less bounce between sections. only the plastic/rubber density is higher, so more to burn.
I am actually cutting it now on the Shear the stuff is 36" wide and on a 100' roll. its actually a funky set up with a sheet roller used to take the curve out as i un-spool it and it helps to feed it into the shear. I'll grab some pictures tomorrow as that's what i am doing first thing in the morning.
I am actually cutting it now on the Shear the stuff is 36" wide and on a 100' roll. its actually a funky set up with a sheet roller used to take the curve out as i un-spool it and it helps to feed it into the shear. I'll grab some pictures tomorrow as that's what i am doing first thing in the morning.
Oddjob83 wrote:I know that plasma cutters can do expanded metal mesh, some have specific settings for that, but has anyone done plastic/rubber coated mesh? does it interfere with getting an arc? when it burns does it foul the tip?
This may be a bit of a dumb answer, but I had a similar situation and sometimes the pilot arc would melt it and sometimes is wouldn't. I chalk lined my cut and then used an angle grinder to expose just enough metal to complete the circuit and it worked fine. It did stink and smoke and what not though, but that's to be expected.
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Owner/welder at Homegrown Metal Fab
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- Otto Nobedder
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Pretty clever, using the roller "in reverse" to flatten the roll, and stick it in the shear. Just crank the roller to set up the next cut, and done. All problems solved!
Steve S
Steve S
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