Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
Jim Bridger
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Hey all I'm a total beginner but am having a lot of fun messing around with projects and learning the basics. These forums have helped a lot and this is my first time posting/asking a question. There was a huge sale at our local farm/ranch store here and I was able to get a Dewalt cordless bandsaw for pretty cheap. I have to say it has been a game changer for cutting material and I absolutely love it. However I have two quick questions:

1) any advice on best way to cut straight lines and 45 angles. I'm pretty happy with my results and its far far better than I was able to achieve with angle grinder but I just think it could be better. Sometimes my fit up leaves bigger gaps than I'd like.

2) does anyone has some easy plans to build a simple stand for specifically a dewalt portable band saw. I'm also curious if anyone has figured out how to not only make a standing version but also something that can easily convert it into an arm that drops like a chop saw.

3) maybe this is dumb question but does anyone lubricate the cut using this type of saw or is it not necessary
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Hey Jim
I recently got the Dewalt corded saw, it is nice. I don't have any tricks per say other then you need to have the correct blade to get the best cut, so in that is the consideration for the material, thickness and shape of the material. There are websites selling blades that offer this info.

Go to swag offroad to see the stands they offer, I got one during their sale on cyber Monday, it is very nice.
Richard
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noddybrian
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    Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm

I recently got a cheapo portable bandsaw just for a site job not expecting to like it but have been very pleased with it for the price - it came with a horizontal stand which is basically one from a14" chop saw - I think if you find a dead chopsaw in the trash it would be fairly easy to adapt to your bandsaw - my only complaint is the need to unbolt it from the stand if used off hand - quick release would have been nice but I think for £150 it's OK - perhaps you can fabricate something similar.

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BillE.Dee
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Steve, that's a pretty nice base on your porta band ,,Is that standard with the purchase or is it considered an extra attachment and is it available ?
noddybrian
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    Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm

Stand came with it free all included for £150 & a 3 year warranty - slightly fiddly to take on & off the stand but really cuts straighter than I imagined when on the stand.
Jim Bridger
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Quick follow up on this, I was just messing around yesterday and just welded two upright 1x1 square tubing on piece of angle. I made the height to catch the forward handle and then on left side I angled the square tubing to line up with the back of the saw. The back of the handle (behind trigger) basically rests right on top of the angle iron. For those wondering it really doesn't need anything on left side of saw as these newer cordless dewalts have a hanging hook and it butted up nicely right against that left hand side square tubing.

Again was just for playing around so the angle iron was simply clamped to the table. Kind of shocked me how stable it was so I think I'll use it for while. I added some scrap metal to build a base (sorry dont have photo of that one). Now I just need to figure out an easy attachment to give me a bigger working table to work material. I still use this thing a ton freehand so I dont really want to be screwing on/off the black support piece. If anyway has built a little easy to attach working table send me your ideas.

Cheers
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Looks good Jim, and the price is right.
Richard
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Antorcha
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The biggest mistakes with both portabands and recip crap are going after it far too fast.
Choose the best blades like the 811 Morse or metal devil/steel demons on a recip. Mark well and go little by little.
I see the " cuts real fast" IdiotToob vids. YAY ! Move slow and precise. Stop and look...........or use a hacksaw :roll:
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That's a nice little setup. I have used a Milwaukee portaband for many years with a Swagoffroad table. I sometimes use a miter gauge to help with angled and with 90 degree cuts, but I have had equal success with good layout and just cutting a ton of material to get the feel of the saw.

The biggest drawback to these saws is the lack of a blade support like a wood band saw that decreases the amount of flex in the blade. The way these saws are built, the blade will arch back and forth and can cut crooked. I mounted a lamp over mine to improve seeing my cut lines.

I buy Lenox blades off Ebay and generally use the 18/14 tpi for most of my stuff. The rule of thumb is to keep three teeth in the material at all times. Basically finer teeth for thinner stuff and let the blade do the work.
Part time blacksmith and bladesmith.
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Jim Bridger
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Antorcha and Ironshepherdforge = those are both really good points. I do find myself in a hurry and its only saw I have to I need to slow down. I find myself needing a lamp for more and more things...guess that's old age kicking in.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!
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Jim Bridger wrote:Thanks for the replies everyone. Antorcha and Ironshepherdforge = those are both really good points. I do find myself in a hurry and its only saw I have to I need to slow down. I find myself needing a lamp for more and more things...guess that's old age kicking in.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!

You're welcome Jim! On the lamp note, the one I have next to my portaband is a magnifying lens style with a pair of tweezers hanging on the cord. I use it all the time to remove slivers of metal from my fingers and on occasion, to examine drill bits, burrs, and close ups of work for cracks and such. The "old eyes" stuff is BS for sure. :D
Part time blacksmith and bladesmith.
Instagram @ironshepherdforge
FB Iron Shepherd Forge
http://www.ironshepherdforge.com
Etsy Iron Shepherd Forge
Youtube ironshepherdforge
Lincoln 140HD, Everlast 160STH, LangmuirPro, Razorcut45
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