[Antorcha]

I don't have a plasma, but it was my impression thru reading this forum (and others) that Miller was not considered a good buy, as Jim Colt has explained the cost of ownership doesn't end with the purchase, however if your not doing production work then perhaps the picture is a bit different.

While that is true, the same is true of almost any welding/cutting apparatus. It's just a matter of making the list (perhaps on a spreadsheet) to account for future costs/expenses. The Miller plasma cutters sure are on the high-end of the spectrum for their given abilities, partly because they dual-voltage which usually drives up the cost a good bit. But I will say one thing, they are compact!

Agreed. I sold mine an bought a PM45 a couple years ago but miss the dual volt of the Miller.
Generally I use oxy acet in the field for the lack of good 220. In the shop the PM 45 rules. PM65 on a table. The only way to fly.Gotta have serious air with that beast tho.

[koenbro]

In the shop the PM 45 rules. PM65 on a table. The only way to fly.Gotta have serious air with that beast tho.

Was slowly tilting towards the 45XP until I realized I don't have the air for it. My California Air Tools quiet and oil-less compressor, which I like, does 5.3 cfpm at 90PSI, and I don't have the budget (and the intention, to be honest) to upgrade. So teh 45xp is, sadly, out.

[cj737]

Was slowly tilting towards the 45XP until I realized I don't have the air for it. My California Air Tools quiet and oil-less compressor, which I like, does 5.3 cfpm at 90PSI, and I don't have the budget (and the intention, to be honest) to upgrade. So teh 45xp is, sadly, out.

Well, here’s a trick to saving money, and a hack for having the air capacity you might need. Just grab some tanks (many folks throw away old compressors due to the motor being shot) or some piping. Plumb yuor small compressor into the tanks/piping for storage. Then run your compressor while using the air, and the storage should keep up with the demand.

I worked a job years back that was discarding about 200’ of schedule 40 3” stainless. Yup, stainless. Grabbed it up and plumbed it into a labrynth on the wall for a mate (picture a wall mounted radiator) and them used a quick connect and bleed valve. He plugged his small job site compressor into it, ran that for about an hour, filled the whole thing up, then was actually able to run and keep up with his blast cabinet, 80psi sustained.

You might be able to accomplish the same thing with PVC as long as it’s rated for the air pressure. Cheaper, easy DIY, and lighter weight too. So for under a $100 bucks you can probably have all the air you need to run the plasma you want. Make sure to plumb in a Regulator, drain valve, and desiccant filter for optimum results.

[noddybrian]

With respect to CJ737 his solution will work as a stop gap & I've done it myself with both truck air brake tanks & propane tanks over the years but anytime you try to run more air than the compressor can make it forces it to run longer than it's intended duty cycle - few small compressors are intended to run constantly - ideally you need one sized that when it cuts in it can at least keep pace with the volume needed or preferably overtake it & cut off so it can cool down - making the tank bigger does'nt make more air it just gets the thing overheated causing thinned out oil & high mechanical wear plus decreases motor life especially on budget ones as the winding / insulation quality is not good - if you go down this route I would get a real cheap one from the usual scum bag big box store suspects with the best warranty you can find but expect to be returning it quite soon - the compressor you have is too small in my opinion to run any kind of plasma even hand cutting - round here you can often get a 5gallon / 2.5 hp / 10 >12 cfm for around £90 if you shop around - these will just about get you by - probably still a cheap if slightly noisy option - depending on you budget this may one of the times an XP30 air is a better fit for you needs.

[Oscar]

Very true about running smaller compressors into storage tanks. So long as you're willing to take the risk on it, you can plumb it into an additional tank. But my take is, if you can afford a 45xp, you can afford another pawn shop compressor so you can tie them together. If it's anything like around here, pawn shops have as many used smaller compressors as any other item in the store, lol. Sure they make a lot of noise, but oh well, that's the price you pay if you want air. A couple of 2HP/20gal oiled compressors should get you by for a while. Until you crave more air! More power!

[cj737]

With respect to CJ737 his solution will work as a stop gap & I've done it myself with both truck air brake tanks & propane tanks over the years but anytime you try to run more air than the compressor can make it forces it to run longer than it's intended duty cycle - few small compressors are intended to run constantly - ideally you need one sized that when it cuts in it can at least keep pace with the volume needed or preferably overtake it & cut off so it can cool down - making the tank bigger does'nt make more air it just gets the thing overheated causing thinned out oil & high mechanical wear plus decreases motor life ...

All this true, but in the scenario I described, his was able to keep pace with consumption (to your point). The extra storage just allowed to keep up with the minimum pressure required. It’s not ideal, but it may get him by in a pinch until the Money Tree sprouts anew

[koenbro]

Well, here’s a trick to saving money, and a hack for having the air capacity you might need. Just grab some tanks (many folks throw away old compressors due to the motor being shot) or some piping. Plumb yuor small compressor into the tanks/piping for storage.

I like this idea very much. In general I am doing small jobs, so the air runs are short and the larger storage buffers the shortcomings of the compressor. The plasma cutter is no different. Thank you.

Very true about running smaller compressors into storage tanks. So long as you're willing to take the risk on it, you can plumb it into an additional tank. But my take is, if you can afford a 45xp, you can afford another pawn shop compressor so you can tie them together.

I really can't afford the 45XP. Have just recently sunk 3 grand into the HTP Invertig, and when accounting for the Arc-Zone tungsten grinder, fancy helmet and other accessories, it's more like 4 grand.

Although I do think the 45XP is the "last tool" -- powerful, expandable with great accessories, industry standard, likely good resale value in case that's needed, my budget is more like the Powermax 30 or the Miller. Even that is later in the year, as I have to save up for it.

Another interesting development is that I REALLY like working with aluminum, and the Invertig opened up the door to welding it. So if I move away from steel through the year, I might end up not getting any plasma cutter?! Will see.

Great discussion, thank you all.

[LtBadd]

Arc-Zone tungsten grinder

Hope you'll post a review of this

[cj737]

Arc-Zone tungsten grinder

Hope you'll post a review of this

I have a Sharpie and swear by the thing. I can hone a tungsten perfectly in seconds with it. It’s has a cut-off wheel slot too for halving a new tungsten, or de-buggering a bad ally dip (I swear it was someone else who did that ). Has 1/16-1/18 collets and an adjustable taper. And you can even blunt a tip if you’re into that kind of thing. Best $300 I’ve spent on a welding tool.

When I head out for a TIG job, I grind up lots and double-end them. Drop them in a used Altoids tin, throw them in my pocket. Flip it end for end, keep rolling. Swap out in seconds. Back to the shop, sit down and within about 5 minutes, I’ve cleaned and tuned about 30 tips (worst case).

[LtBadd]

Arc-Zone tungsten grinder

Hope you'll post a review of this

I have a Sharpie and swear by the thing. I can hone a tungsten perfectly in seconds with it. It’s has a cut-off wheel slot too for halving a new tungsten, or de-buggering a bad ally dip (I swear it was someone else who did that ). Has 1/16-1/18 collets and an adjustable taper. And you can even blunt a tip if you’re into that kind of thing. Best $300 I’ve spent on a welding tool.

When I head out for a TIG job, I grind up lots and double-end them. Drop them in a used Altoids tin, throw them in my pocket. Flip it end for end, keep rolling. Swap out in seconds. Back to the shop, sit down and within about 5 minutes, I’ve cleaned and tuned about 30 tips (worst case).

Thanks CJ, I use the altoids tin also

[cj737]

Thanks CJ, I use the altoids tin also

I use 3 different colors for tungsten types: Red for Thoriated, Green for pure, and Blue for Lanthanated. Works a treat. Although, I haven’t spent much time in the green tin lately... Occasionally I’ll do a job where the machine is provided and they have an older transformer so they do see action.

[LtBadd]

I use 3 different colors for tungsten types: Red for Thoriated, Green for pure, and Blue for Lanthanated. Works a treat. Although, I haven’t spent much time in the green tin lately... Occasionally I’ll do a job where the machine is provided and they have an older transformer so they do see action.

it seems you're quite diversified...I don't even own any green tungsten, or zirconiated, that's what I used for doing critical AL work some years ago

[koenbro]

Arc-Zone tungsten grinder

Hope you'll post a review of this

I got the cordless Sharpie DX[emoji769] Adjustable 15°- 45° Grind Angle, and while in theory the adjustable angle is nice, in practice, the fixed angle is probably a better value. OTOH, the cordless setup is worth the premium.

It comes with a 12V Milwaukee rotary tool body, and I have other tools in this line-up, so can easily swap batteries. I wish they'd sell the Sharpie without the charger, but I don't think that was an option, so now I have a second unneeded charger.

I love the cutoff slot, which, for a frequent dipper like me, is a godsend. That slot can also be used to debur the tungsten so it fits in the collet.

IMG_2758.png (553.33 KiB) Viewed 2270 times

The top deck has storage for two other collets and holes to insert the tungsten to blunt its tip. I do blunt my tips ever so slightly.

IMG_2759.png (636.06 KiB) Viewed 2270 times

My one problem is that the collets are short so the tungsten is not firmly angled, and it wobbles. So you need to angle it by hand. If I were to design it, I would have made the collets longer. I made a short video, but can't upload it.

Overall though it's a valuable tool and helps prep consistent tungstens.

[LtBadd]

I got the cordless Sharpie DX[emoji769] Adjustable 15°- 45° Grind Angle, and while in theory the adjustable angle is nice, in practice, the fixed angle is probably a better value. OTOH, the cordless setup is worth the premium.

It comes with a 12V Milwaukee rotary tool body, and I have other tools in this line-up, so can easily swap batteries. I wish they'd sell the Sharpie without the charger, but I don't think that was an option, so now I have a second unneeded charger.

I love the cutoff slot, which, for a frequent dipper like me, is a godsend. That slot can also be used to debur the tungsten so it fits in the collet.

IMG_2758.png

The top deck has storage for two other collets and holes to insert the tungsten to blunt its tip. I do blunt my tips ever so slightly.

IMG_2759.png

My one problem is that the collets are short so the tungsten is not firmly angled, and it wobbles. So you need to angle it by hand. If I were to design it, I would have made the collets longer. I made a short video, but can't upload it.

Overall though it's a valuable tool and helps prep consistent tungstens.

Thanks!

[cj737]

I don’t follow your explanation of having to manually angle the tungsten.

The different collets are for tungsten sizes, screw them in, adjust the grind taper angle by the brass screw on the side, spin the tungsten by hand and you should be done in seconds. Mine fit quite snugly in the collets, and there’s no wiggle room. Are you using different collets for each tungsten diameter?

[Poland308]

I don’t follow your explanation of having to manually angle the tungsten.

The different collets are for tungsten sizes, screw them in, adjust the grind taper angle by the brass screw on the side, spin the tungsten by hand and you should be done in seconds. Mine fit quite snugly in the collets, and there’s no wiggle room. Are you using different collets for each tungsten diameter?

Same here with the one on my work truck.