Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm just a helper tired of grinding. I work in a fab shop that focuses on petro chemical piping.

Ive been practicing mig for roughly 6 months, just started on pipe. Beleive it or not I can weld pipe better than structural. Manily because I was focused on pretty mig like tig welds.

I don't think on pipe, just focus on breaking the wall down for complete joint penetration. I hope to take some pics for Yall tomorrow of my coupons. To get your opinions.

We mig the root 2" sch 80 and above, pluse the cap.

I think Yall call pulse spray transfer.

I just started practicing pluse, totally differnt to me.

Anyway since I started pipe welding I've turned OCD. I think about carrying the puddle all day in myhead.

I'm very lucky to be blessed to weld with a miller pipe worx 400.

I don't see any post about migging pipe, is it not talked about or not common?

I have sone questions and inout, ill be posting soon.

Thanks for havin me.

Welcome B. Nice to have you along. You're right, pipe migin is not talked about much. My take on that is that its used mostly out on the pipeline and at the end of the day those guys are too tired, ornery and drunk to go talking about it on an Internet forum if you know what I mean.
We'd like to hear from you about your experience and methods. Some pics would be nice. And also a review of your pipeworx, the holy grail of mig welders in front of which true blue believers bow down and pay homage.

Done a lot of field fab chilled pipe work in positioners with wire process. Do a "hybrid" system i.e. a lot of flanges on fittings and Vic groove the other end for field install. Build it right off the drawings, take it to the field and bolt it up like a Lego set, fits perfectly everytime

Thanks guys I thought my post didn't go though or get approved.

Yeah the guys don't teach much they want you to watch them. Their coming around though.

We are slow at the moment so I've been able to weld 2-3 coupons a day varying from 2" to 8". So ill have plenty of pics coming.

The pipe worx 400 is amazing compared to the Miller's 304xrt s we have. 16v on the pipe worx is like 19 on the 304 xrt.

The features and options it has for adjustabilty and comfort.

It will spoils me, it so easy to setup. I usually weld around 16.1v at 160 or so wirespeed.

I wish I could give a better review but I'm not versed with all the options and lingo of the welders.

More coupons.

Looking good, first coupon. Good penetration and no missed edges or cold lap. The last coupon root has some incomplete fusion coming onto the tacks. I see this alot. The cure for it is to feather your tacks way back and fully consume the feathering as you run over it. When you feather, don't straight grind either, wobble your grinder left and right to the angle of the prep. The cap is looking good.

Welcome to the forum Bsmith.

DLewis0289 wrote:Done a lot of field fab chilled pipe work in positioners with wire process. Do a "hybrid" system i.e. a lot of flanges on fittings and Vic groove the other end for field install. Build it right off the drawings, take it to the field and bolt it up like a Lego set, fits perfectly everytime

Yep that's how we operate. We call them spools.

No modification is needed, just install.

We roll out as much as possible, and tig in position what can't be rolled out. The time it takes us to make a piece versus in the feild is ridiculous. Seriously I came from construction and its amazing how fast a piece can be built.

Coldman wrote:Looking good, first coupon. Good penetration and no missed edges or cold lap. The last coupon root has some incomplete fusion coming onto the tacks. I see this alot. The cure for it is to feather your tacks way back and fully consume the feathering as you run over it. When you feather, don't straight grind either, wobble your grinder left and right to the angle of the prep. The cap is looking good.

Really I thought that cap sucked. I haven't feathered much when welding just cause I didn't understand the meaning.

How does the weld on the 3" 160 look from the top, in thinking I need a tighter pattern. Some say I'm not going high enough on the sides, which I don't do because I'm worried about breaking the shoulder down. If that makes sense.

Even though I've done tons if flanges and pipe to a weather edge. Sounds crazy explaining it to you but its the truth.

I appreciate the detailed response, that's why I joined here. I need the help and its hard to come by or not worth listening to.

Can I ask what you do since you definitely know what your talking about.

Thanks again for the advice!

What section do I post in for a budget 110v stick machine only to practice? I have acess to bigger machines on 220.

I've read enough to know everlast 140 is what I need cause I wanna burn 6010, 7018 rods.

I just don't wanna spend that mu h to strictly practice.

Just look on Craigslist for a little AC/DC Lincoln buzz box (tombstone). Should be able to find a used one for 150, burn rod until the cows come home. Always be aware of duty cycle when you are buying the little 120V jobs. No fun burning half an 1/8" rod, smoke a cigarette and burn the rest.

DLewis0289 wrote:Just look on Craigslist for a little AC/DC Lincoln buzz box (tombstone). Should be able to find a used one for 150, burn rod until the cows come home. Always be aware of duty cycle when you are buying the little 120V jobs. No fun burning half an 1/8" rod, smoke a cigarette and burn the rest.

I worry about that since I have little patience. But getting a tombstone I limit my locations I can use it, beening 220v.

This is strictly practice machine. If I need more amps, I have access to.

But ill look on craigslist, I live in a small town though.

Hi B,
sure your 3" cap could be better its true but the basics are there and the rest will come with arc time. You can try concentrating on rotating the gun as you go so it's always pointing to the centre of the pipe. Building up the shoulders will increase the angle of fusion between the cap and pipe causing a stress raiser. We try to avoid that more these days by reducing the height of the cap and a gentle blending to the pipe. Your cap does this just fine which is why I said it was looking good initially even though it could be "prettier".
Me? I'm a baggy assed industrial refrigeration mechanic from oz. Also a cert pressure welder. Also have increased my qualifications significantly in recent times but haven't told anyone about that yet. There are lots of highly experienced welders on this forum with amazing experience and knowledge that will also chime in. I know a little bit about pipe welding, glad to be able to help.

Coldman wrote:Hi B,
sure your 3" cap could be better its true but the basics are there and the rest will come with arc time. You can try concentrating on rotating the gun as you go so it's always pointing to the centre of the pipe. Building up the shoulders will increase the angle of fusion between the cap and pipe causing a stress raiser. We try to avoid that more these days by reducing the height of the cap and a gentle blending to the pipe. Your cap does this just fine which is why I said it was looking good initially even though it could be "prettier".
Me? I'm a baggy assed industrial refrigeration mechanic from oz. Also a cert pressure welder. Also have increased my qualifications significantly in recent times but haven't told anyone about that yet. There are lots of highly experienced welders on this forum with amazing experience and knowledge that will also chime in. I know a little bit about pipe welding, glad to be able to help.

Ok I was confused. I thought you were talking about the pluse cap on 8". Its ulgy.

Yeah I need to do more of a horse shoe pattern versus side to side manipulation.

I didn't get to weld any today.

Thanks again!