New to the forum.
I live in Fort Collins, CO. I started welding in highschool and the shop teacher, who really didn't like me much, felt I had a knack for welding - stick and gas with oxy-acetylene cutting. Hot and dirty for sure. (I didn't like him much either.)
My biggest project was the roll cage and suspension system in a quarter mile dirt car. The car never saw the track but the cage was strong. I've never used TIG, MIG or a plasma cutter. I also built the exhaust system (from the header collector back) in my 1971 SS Nova. I recently restored a very old 80-Amp Atlas 110V buzz box - redid the cables and the cord, bought a helmet and gloves but had a heck of time with anything other than smallest rod I could find. I'm hardly a pro at anything but like to have nice tools I can depend on and that match my use model. The budget is not unlimited but sorry I'm not very compelled to buy a welder from HF even though they are currently on sale.
Now my interests are in a '63 Impala. It has a small amount of floor panel rust that needs repair. I also need to repair the trailer for my lawn aerator and possibly add a torsion axle. So I'll need some ability to cut as well as weld. I work out of my home garage which is equiped with a 50A 220v circuit if needed.
So my first question is around a welder recommendation (TIG, I'd guess). I don't see a need to ever weld aluminum or stainless. Steel and probably no thicker than 1/4" or so.
Thanks.
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Welcome, dbsoccer,
For the needs you described, I'd suggest you have a look at the Hobart "Handler" series.
I'm sure several reviews and specific recommendations will follow, but I think for your use, the Hobart welders will offer you the best cost/capability compromise, and the consumables are readily available, too.
Steve S
For the needs you described, I'd suggest you have a look at the Hobart "Handler" series.
I'm sure several reviews and specific recommendations will follow, but I think for your use, the Hobart welders will offer you the best cost/capability compromise, and the consumables are readily available, too.
Steve S
Thanks Steve,
So after doing some research it appears going with a 220V unit is worth it if you can afford the extra $300 or so.
I have a local supplier who sells the Hobart 210 for $850. My General Air dealer has the Miller 211 for $1121. I understand Hobart is now made by Miller so why would one want to spend the extra $300 to get a Miller?
So after doing some research it appears going with a 220V unit is worth it if you can afford the extra $300 or so.
I have a local supplier who sells the Hobart 210 for $850. My General Air dealer has the Miller 211 for $1121. I understand Hobart is now made by Miller so why would one want to spend the extra $300 to get a Miller?
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Hobart is NOT made by Miller... A common confusion.dbsoccer wrote:Thanks Steve,
So after doing some research it appears going with a 220V unit is worth it if you can afford the extra $300 or so.
I have a local supplier who sells the Hobart 210 for $850. My General Air dealer has the Miller 211 for $1121. I understand Hobart is now made by Miller so why would one want to spend the extra $300 to get a Miller?
Both are assembled from parts from the "world economy". Hobart and Miller are "owned" by the same parent company.
The short form on the difference? Miller brands are often intended for continuous-duty production work, while the Hobart machines with the same Amp rating are medium-duty, for an automotive shop, for example, that is doing occasional welding, perhaps every day, but not continuously.
I'd look carefully through the warranties, and have frank talks with the supplier(s) if $300 is the difference...
Steve S
Just to catch up.....
On Craig's List I found a posting for a Millermatic 180, a Victor Performer torch kit, an auto darkening helmet, three bottles (shield, oxy, acet) a nice cart, misc tools, and numerous pieces of scrap metal plus a 24" sq of 1/4" steel plate The welder and the torched was hardly used i.e. like new. $1200. I couldn't pass it up.
Over the weekend, I modified the cart so it will hold the welder and fit under as shelving unit in my garage. I also added a near floor level shelf to back of the cart to carry the gas bottle. After adding a 50 amp circuit the the garage I was able to start welding.
I must say MIG is, potentially, much easier and cleaner than stick. I burnt up many pounds of rod in years past. And some of my first welds were ok but most were ugly as hell. I have a lot to learn. I'll post some newby questions elsewhere.
On Craig's List I found a posting for a Millermatic 180, a Victor Performer torch kit, an auto darkening helmet, three bottles (shield, oxy, acet) a nice cart, misc tools, and numerous pieces of scrap metal plus a 24" sq of 1/4" steel plate The welder and the torched was hardly used i.e. like new. $1200. I couldn't pass it up.
Over the weekend, I modified the cart so it will hold the welder and fit under as shelving unit in my garage. I also added a near floor level shelf to back of the cart to carry the gas bottle. After adding a 50 amp circuit the the garage I was able to start welding.
I must say MIG is, potentially, much easier and cleaner than stick. I burnt up many pounds of rod in years past. And some of my first welds were ok but most were ugly as hell. I have a lot to learn. I'll post some newby questions elsewhere.
When I lived in Colorado I bought several machines over the years at Roller Auction in Denver.. you might want to check out their website. Be sure you understand the risks and costs in buying at auction though