Welcome to the community! Tell us about yourself, your welding interests, skills, specialties, equipment, etc.
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vito18
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    Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:32 am

hi,my name is Vito.I am new to welding.Just made a few frames for the hard wood furniture.Looking to keep moving that direction.Setting up my workshop.And looking for all kinds of advice starting from what size work table I should make and what welding equipment I should buy.Thinking to be welding 2,3 mm carbon steel for begining.So looking for all kinds of advice for a newbie. ;)
Mike
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    Mon Dec 06, 2010 1:09 pm
  • Location:
    Andover, Ohio

Welcome to the forum, Vito.
M J Mauer Andover, Ohio

Linoln A/C 225
Everlast PA 200
cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

vito18 wrote:And looking for all kinds of advice starting from what size work table I should make...
The bigger the better, always. But how large depends upon the size of your shop and the space available. If you're making furniture with steel tube frames, having enough surface area to clamp and fixture pieces into position while working alone is priceless. But, you can also get it done with a very small table if you don't mind the hassle of constantly re-positoing your work and swapping in your "next" pieces.

I have a 48"x72" table with clamp holes every 2" and its still not big enough often to get the entire work piece laid out and clamped. But I really don't have room for larger.
...and what welding equipment I should buy.Thinking to be welding 2,3 mm carbon steel for begining.So looking for all kinds of advice for a newbie. ;)
The "easiest" process to learn is MIG for carbon steel. Clean the metal, position in place, pull the trigger, you're welding. The downside is: strength, bead size, and appearance.
Strength: MIG is a perfectly strong process when done per spec. If you do enough research, and some testing, you'll discover how to setup your machine for the material and joints you're welding. But this should be done so the furniture frames don't fail.
Bead Size: MIG puts out a large amount of weld wire. You'll likely end up with a fatter, taller bead at the end. Some folks then grind this down flat(ter) and you have just removed strength. (See comment above). If the material is less than 3mm thick, you're probably getting sufficient penetration where you can remove some of the weld, but you need to keep an eye on strength over bead size.
Appearance: MIG doesn't produce those instagram "dimes" easily. So you'll end up with (proper welds) undefined "worms". If the appearance isn't a factor, then you're good to go. Also, welding inside angles, tight corners, etc with MIG is tricky, so practice makes perfect.

These are some general, rules of the road that you might consider. Other options would of course be TIG (harder to learn, but really great process) or even Oxy welding with Silicon Bronze (you just need a torch kit). This too takes some experience, but can be beautiful when done right.

Welcome, and good luck!
tweake
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    Mon Dec 18, 2017 4:53 am
  • Location:
    New Zealand

have a look at a multi process machine.

don't forget stick welding. it may be a little old fashion but its a good way to learn and comes in handy.
you can get the rods in places where you can't get a mig into.
tweak it until it breaks
vito18
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    Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:32 am

Thank you for advices!!!
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    Tue Oct 02, 2018 12:49 am
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    Tasmania

Welcome to the forum, build your workshop slow, build as much as you can...strive for perfection but do not beat yourself up if it doesnt go to plan...and of course practice on scrap before using good steel.
Uni Mig 180 AC/DC tig
Oxy Acet
LPG
Older Newbie
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