ngalantino
- ngalantino
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New Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:39 pm
Hello all, my name is Nick. I work as a driveabilty tech at a small independent auto repair shop. I typically diagnose/repair engine, transmission, and electrical problems. I'm not master certified, but working on it. The one thing that escapes me is welding. I love project cars (aka rusty cars), and would like to be able to patch/replace panels. I would also like to be able to perform the exhaust work that is needed at the shop. I own a cheap Northern tool welder that I purchased a couple years ago in an attempt to teach myself but I'm getting frustrated with it (especially thin auto sheet metal). This forum popped up for just about every welding question I could ask on google, so here I am. I'm looking forward to learning from everyone.
- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
Hey mate. Amazing how many google references there are to this joint hey? I've not done lots of thin stuff, but lots here have.
Thin stuff if not easy and made worse with cheap welders. Are you using 75/25 gas and .023 wire? It requires a lot of tacks and then skip welding lots of 1" beads to prevent warping. If you can get a strip of copper backing on the back side of the seam/joint, that helps
Bill Beauregard
- Bill Beauregard
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:32 pm
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Location:Green Mountains of Vermont
Do you remember the movies from the 60s The Love Bug? In the movies a Volkswagen Beetle wins races beating Ferrari s.
That ain't real. A good weldor, with a cheap welder won't do a great job. If budget allows go very good with a 252 or Dynasty from Miller. If it doesn't, buy used. A Dialarc HF or 250 Miller would serve you well.
Both MIG and TIG are useful in auto repair. New floors call for MIG. High end repairs on body panels should best be TIGged.
Stainless exhausts; I favor TIG.
Thin body panels will distort. The filler goes in just the right dimension, however heating the fender makes it expand. As filler solidifies, it, together with the heat affected sheet shrinks. A little bit of shrinkage translates to a lot of warping. The fix then is to grind flush in and out, and use hammer and dolly, or planisher to expand it back to shape. MIG produces a harder
weld that is tougher to grind and stretch. TIG probably spreads heat farther, but is easier to stretch, and less likely to crack.
That ain't real. A good weldor, with a cheap welder won't do a great job. If budget allows go very good with a 252 or Dynasty from Miller. If it doesn't, buy used. A Dialarc HF or 250 Miller would serve you well.
Both MIG and TIG are useful in auto repair. New floors call for MIG. High end repairs on body panels should best be TIGged.
Stainless exhausts; I favor TIG.
Thin body panels will distort. The filler goes in just the right dimension, however heating the fender makes it expand. As filler solidifies, it, together with the heat affected sheet shrinks. A little bit of shrinkage translates to a lot of warping. The fix then is to grind flush in and out, and use hammer and dolly, or planisher to expand it back to shape. MIG produces a harder
weld that is tougher to grind and stretch. TIG probably spreads heat farther, but is easier to stretch, and less likely to crack.