I know Jody has touched on the subject of flame straightening/tig torch straightening, but I am curious for a little more in depth video on the subject. Like flame straightening box tube (thin and thick), solid stock, sheet ect.
The reason I ask for this topic is because warpage seems to be the bane of my existence as a welder. I was just wondering if you had any good tricks up your sleeve.
-Kyle
SBblacksmith
- SBblacksmith
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Joined:Tue Oct 22, 2013 4:51 pm
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Location:Santa Barbara
SBblacksmith
- SBblacksmith
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New Member
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Joined:Tue Oct 22, 2013 4:51 pm
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Location:Santa Barbara
Well, here are some examples of warpage that I have had. One was a stainless steel railing, 1x2x.083 cap rail with 2x2x.083 posts. All 304, and where the posts met that cap rail, it did't matter how much clamping I did, the cap rail still warped and bowed. I was using tig for this job. Second was a job at the shop, where a new guy just went for it and welded up a door jam, 2x4x.250. All the spots where the 6 inch hinges were welded and in the corners causes a sever amount of bowing. I tried to flame straighten it along with jumping up and down on it between two cinder blocks. I should say that our shop is mainly ornamental fabrication, a lot of railings, doors, gates, firescreens, business signs ect. I was just wondering what kind of tricks for flame straightening box tube one might use, and same goes for thick stuff as well.
- weldin mike 27
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
Hey,
one weapon you can use in your way against distortion is, pre setting. Once you think you know which something will move with heat from welding , bend it back the other way past the flat stage, by blocking your part in the middle and clamping each end. After welding and cooling , when you release the clamps, it will return to flatish.
Mick
one weapon you can use in your way against distortion is, pre setting. Once you think you know which something will move with heat from welding , bend it back the other way past the flat stage, by blocking your part in the middle and clamping each end. After welding and cooling , when you release the clamps, it will return to flatish.
Mick
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Mick's on it!
I weld ss piping, often schd. 5, and "draw" is always on issue. I have to take shinkage in to account with every weld I do.
I pre-set welds with shrinkage in mind. As an example, every sch. 10 pipe weld will shrink 1/32". A sch. 10 90*ell will shrink that same 1/32 inside and out, meaning I have to fit it at 92*-93* if I want it to be 90* when it's done.
Steve S
I weld ss piping, often schd. 5, and "draw" is always on issue. I have to take shinkage in to account with every weld I do.
I pre-set welds with shrinkage in mind. As an example, every sch. 10 pipe weld will shrink 1/32". A sch. 10 90*ell will shrink that same 1/32 inside and out, meaning I have to fit it at 92*-93* if I want it to be 90* when it's done.
Steve S