playing catch up so here are the latest 2 videos
First one is on pulse tig settings for thin outside corners with no filler rod
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Second video is some basic shop math for when you need to fabricate a square frame for a round part
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Peace out,
Jody
Comments & questions on new & past videos
- MosquitoMoto
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Joined:Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:38 am
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Location:The Land Down Under
Awesome! Thanks Jody.
The stainless/pulse video was just what I needed to see. I am about to undertake (another) exhaust in stainless and the mention of chill bars/blocks has me wondering. The exhaust I will be working on is oval in section so there is no way a square section bar would work.
I wonder if I just wrapped the exhaust on either side of the weld area with lots of tight layers of aluminium foil?
Kym
The stainless/pulse video was just what I needed to see. I am about to undertake (another) exhaust in stainless and the mention of chill bars/blocks has me wondering. The exhaust I will be working on is oval in section so there is no way a square section bar would work.
I wonder if I just wrapped the exhaust on either side of the weld area with lots of tight layers of aluminium foil?
Kym
I'm about to start doing the same thing. I was thinking of solid core or even stranded copper wire and just wrapping it up to about 5mm from the joint.
I've had good results from manually pulsing via the pedal on corner joints in thin copper and SS. Haven't tried butt welding oval or round so not sure how much that warps. I have pulse on the welder just never really played around with it. Whats the biggest issues with thin tube, warping or blowing out?
I've had good results from manually pulsing via the pedal on corner joints in thin copper and SS. Haven't tried butt welding oval or round so not sure how much that warps. I have pulse on the welder just never really played around with it. Whats the biggest issues with thin tube, warping or blowing out?
Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing... Oscar Wilde
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Somewhere here, a long time ago, this was discussed before. I'm not digging for it now...
I have scraps of 1/0 high-flex stranded welding lead that I can use to wrap thin sections with to serve as a heat sink, and it's made more effective if bedded in a heat-sink compound similar to this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/N-W-30g-High-Pe ... rkt%3D1%26
To answer the other question, whether blow-through or warpage is the bigger problem, it depends on your level of experience. Starting out, blow-through will frustrate you first. Warpage is not quite the right term... Shrinkage issues will plague you. With stainless steel, I automatically assume a typical butt-joint in a straight run will shrink 1/16". However, when welding in a bend, such as the stock bends available for exhaust, the "short" side will shrink more. More accurately, the inner radius and outer radius will shrink the same, but the inner is a higher percentage of the linear distance, so the inside will seem to shrink more. If you fit a 90* elbow dead square to a straight section and weld it, you will end at around 92*, as an example. This shrink factor must be accounted for in the fitup.
Steve S
I have scraps of 1/0 high-flex stranded welding lead that I can use to wrap thin sections with to serve as a heat sink, and it's made more effective if bedded in a heat-sink compound similar to this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/N-W-30g-High-Pe ... rkt%3D1%26
To answer the other question, whether blow-through or warpage is the bigger problem, it depends on your level of experience. Starting out, blow-through will frustrate you first. Warpage is not quite the right term... Shrinkage issues will plague you. With stainless steel, I automatically assume a typical butt-joint in a straight run will shrink 1/16". However, when welding in a bend, such as the stock bends available for exhaust, the "short" side will shrink more. More accurately, the inner radius and outer radius will shrink the same, but the inner is a higher percentage of the linear distance, so the inside will seem to shrink more. If you fit a 90* elbow dead square to a straight section and weld it, you will end at around 92*, as an example. This shrink factor must be accounted for in the fitup.
Steve S
- MinnesotaDave
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
Awesome videos
For burst tacking I switch my machine back to panel.
That way my foot control is just and on-off switch without having to move the whole range.
Just a small touch goes to full panel setting, click back off and done
...it'd be easier if I had a torch switch, but this works basically the same.
For burst tacking I switch my machine back to panel.
That way my foot control is just and on-off switch without having to move the whole range.
Just a small touch goes to full panel setting, click back off and done
...it'd be easier if I had a torch switch, but this works basically the same.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
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