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Jody's video for this week.
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Interestingly, Jody's weekly video has not appeared here, so I'm sharing a link to it now:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/cas ... lding.html

Steve S

thanks Steve, I am falling behind ,

Jody
dyFo-JP4fDQ
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kblenker#22
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maybe i missed it did he say what kind of filler he was using?
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kblenker#22 wrote:maybe i missed it did he say what kind of filler he was using?
My question, too.

We have an active thread on the boards at the moment where there is some discussion of a cast pump casing that needs to be welded and which filler to use...would be handy to know which filler Jody and JD used on this job - and why.



Kym
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Coldman
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He does say in the write up. 4047
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
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Coldman wrote:He does say in the write up. 4047

Reading? You want me to READ now? :lol:



Kym
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Coldman
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Nope, that's why I gave you the numbers. It's happy hour.
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
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By the way, if anyone is interested in discussing dye-penetrant NDE, I've accumulated a lot of experience with visible dyes like Jody used, including in ASME code applications, and have more time to discuss it than he does.

Steve S
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Poland308
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I've used it a lot but maybe a thread just about use of it would be a good idea. It's an Awsome way to track cracks.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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I found the dye check very interesting as well.

About a month ago I did a cracked Chevy truck bell housing.

Basically did just like Jody just showed about amps, slow puddling, stop drill, cleaning action, etc - except I've never dye checked anything and thought that was an AWESOME tip. :)
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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dirtmidget33
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Otto Nobedder wrote:By the way, if anyone is interested in discussing dye-penetrant NDE, I've accumulated a lot of experience with visible dyes like Jody used, including in ASME code applications, and have more time to discuss it than he does.

Steve S
Steve I got a question for you then, is there really any noticeable difference in the standard kit vs the nuclear kit that dynaflux makes.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
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I'm pretty sure the "nuclear" kit is going to be a UV penetrant, rather than visible. Since it fluoresces under blacklight, much smaller traces are detectable, making UV penetrant quite a bit more sensitive. It's more expensive in several respects, though. First being the cost of the materials. Second, of course, is a powerful enough blacklight... A good 50W longwave will set you back $400 or so, and replacement bulbs for ours were $116 last time we bought. Third is the time and material to black out all light from your test area, if your piece is too big to move to a dark room.

On a side note, don't EVER blacklight anything in the company rest room... You do NOT want to see what glows in there... :lol:

I should add, I don't use UV penetrants at this time (we have the blacklight for oxygen-clean checks), as the visible is more than sufficient for what I'm testing.
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Steve S
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dirtmidget33
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Well that would make sense however the dynaflux kit doesn't use UV light and it had same instructions for both. The only difference I found on the website for them is one is flammable and other isn't. They didn't list any other details on website which is while I enquired about it.
Here is link to kits on there site
http://weldingsupplies.dynaflux.com/vie ... eck-i-kits

Gonna try to get company I fix polaris housings for to spend money to use this stuff. I never thought about using it really, after watching Jodys video thought It would be a good idea to make sure we do get all the cracks. Have used machinst blue in past to help make some cracks more visible.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
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Poland308
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It may just have a few diferent ingredients to allow its use in a nuke plant. And it will have traceability for record keeping. Like batch numbers and such. They make a nuke grade duct tape too. The glue has a few diferent chemicals in it so that it is "approved" for use by the nrc.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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A study of the MSDS for the two varieties shows the penetrant is the same in each kit. The developer in the nuke version is much higher in VOC, perhaps for a much faster dry time and much less residue to clean.

The cleaners are even more dramatic in difference. The non-flammable is methylene chloride, while the nuke version is essentially light Naptha.

In both cases, the "nuclear" is what I use. Sounds like marketing to me.

Steve S
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electrode
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I liked in the comments (you have to read) where the guy said:
Q:I cant buy that dye check where I live so I use kerosene mixed with food coloring in a spray bottle. for the developer, I use Dr. Shcolls athletes foot spray and it works great.

A: that sounds like something I would do.

I am definitely going to try that.
Looks worth a try if that is all you got. :D
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