General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
Farmwelding
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I made a stainless steel die (dice) but when I went to drill the holes in the mill some holes would just force the bit into the chuck and melt the bit. I used several speed settings and oil. Some holes drilled alright but some would not. Any suggestion would help.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
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Nick
Poland308
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Slow , lots of pressure. And there is a good cutting / drill lube that is a paste that works Awsome. Can't remember the name but I'll look tomorrow.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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Yep. Stainless likes very low RPMs with high pressure to make those ribbons peel off/up the bit. When you have the right pressure, you'll know by the ribbons peeling off silver. If they're straw-colored, your pressure is too high. If you get chips, your pressure is too low. If you can't get either, your bits are too cheap.

There is a cutting "wax" called Cut-Eeze, but I prefer Tap-Magic thread-cutting oil. The wax is far less expensive. I look forward to Josh's update on the cutting paste he mentioned.

Steve S
Farmwelding
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I've been using some drill bits from enco, taping oil like Otto mentioned and 600-1400 rpm depending on the size of the drill bit ( starting small then increasing size)
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
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I set my drill press at 150 RPM, because it won't go lower.

Steve S
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I'd set it at 50 RPM, if I could. Low speed, high pressure.

Steve S
Poland308
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This is the stuff I've used and had good luck with. It stays on the bit good. I dip my bits in it like you would nozzle dip. It's about the same thickness. Or I brushed it on with a chip brush when I had to hole saw a 5in hole in a 14in 300 # SS flange for a test fitting.
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I have more questions than answers

Josh
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When nothing else will do Plain Old Lard,even bacon drippings from breakfast pan.
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Poland308
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Or I've even used just water in a spray bottle.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
motox
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135 ro 140 degree drill is good
four faceted drill points better
must be sharp and cool or it
will work harden the stainless
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
The_Fixer
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I'm sneaky.... I give it to someone else to do..... :lol:

But 1500 RPM sounds very high On any size.
I often find a drill bit in the workshop kit with a melted end on it and we say "who has been drilling stainless?"
Usually find out it was that Chinese fella again. Sum C**t.
kiwi2wheels
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The_Fixer wrote:I'm sneaky.... I give it to someone else to do..... :lol:

But 1500 RPM sounds very high On any size.
I often find a drill bit in the workshop kit with a melted end on it and we say "who has been drilling stainless?"
Usually find out it was that Chinese fella again. Sum C**t.
That guy gets around ............... :x
Poland308
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He must fly to the US in the evenings. Ours seem to only get burnt up when no one is around to see it. After hours.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
Bill Beauregard
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My neighbor, now deceased said you can't drill stainless without bees wax. I had a large volume because my grandfather was a shoemaker. I now will need to find more. His theory was the excess heat was consumed melting the wax. Bee keepers are all around, I hope it won't be hard.

Bees wax is indispensable for locks, windows, drawers, doors, planers, wood working machinery etc., etc.
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