Welding Tips and Tricks

Oh man, that's ugly. Why don't you junk it and buy a new one?
"they're expensive and rot out in 18 months"
Why don't you let me 2-pack a new one so it don't rot out?
"Oh yer that's a good idea. Sooo are you going to fix this or not???"

OK. :roll

It's only welding, says the bean counter.

when my customers ask me a ridiculous repair question
that i know is unrepairable i say let me try one more
thing,i wave my hands and say "ABRA CADABRA"
well guess that didn't fix it either.
you need to replace it.....
craig

Impossibilities we do immediately

Miracles take a little longer


Don't know why its not made of Gal or Zincalume in the first place

C'mon, "Weak as" you guys - that'd be fixed in a jiffy, surely - A very long jiffy that is

The motor mounting plate and suppot legs were mild steel painted with 1 coat enamel. The "pyramid" top was mounted on a gal baffle with nutserts now almost completely gone. Fan was used to exhaust a food production room during wash down with chlorine based foaming sanitizer. The aluminium wheel although dirty is not bad. The colorbond casing is also reasonable. Stainless steel might suffer as well given the fan is never rinsed. I think a good 2pack over mild steel would be best. I started pulling it apart. More pics in a day or so I have another job on tomorrow.

That would eat ss? Crikey.

http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/04-html/4-1.html this explains why. I now know lots more than I did 5 minutes ago.

Well at least the small fans only eat themselves - the larger ones eat anything that gets near them.

Oh man! My rods and cones just got violated and will never get their cheerful innocence back.
That's an awful tragedy!!!

I saw that post at lunch. Glad I didn't see the picture. Last time he'll forget his keys and try to get in through the air conditioner...

Ok, back to the job. This is where I ended up yesterday.

First job, remove the wheel.
Looks like crap, but I got the allan key to hold and with WD40 got the screws out.
Wheel is stuck fast onto shaft so I made a quick tool to push the shaft out.
Wheel off. Yay!
Next job, remove mounting plate. You think those nuts are going to come off?
Of course they will - with the angle grinder spanner.
Next job in the next couple of days (fitting this between other jobs) clean up reusable parts and profile out a new mounting plate with the new plasma cutter hopefully arriving tomorrow. ( I got fed up with my el-cheapo Cut50)

A little more progress.

Everything disassembled now.
Re-usable parts chemical cleaned:
And materials for new motor support cut ready for welding.
going to be fully seal welded this time so it can't rust from inside out like original manufacture.

resurrecting the dead
awesome job
craig

Chemical cleaning...I'm jealous that's cheating... Lol


Nice job!

OK Guys, finally finished the job and documented it.

So the next job was fabricate the motor mount and fully seal weld it to prevent future internal corrosion:
Next I pulled the motor apart and changed the bearings. They were shot and they came from PRC. Bought some SKF bearings, got em out of the packet and they are stamped made in Malaysia. Oh well. Didn't take a photo of the motor, my hands must have been greasy.
Time to assemble the motor mount and motor and a bit of 2-pack. The wheel taperlock was not assembled correctly from the factory, the key had an interference fit in the vertical dimension and was bashed in. I had to fix all that up and re-fit with clearance. Then adjust position so wheel runs free:
Next came a stainless steel baffle that went over the motor onto the motor mount frame to attach the top cover. All fixed down with nutserts. I ordered it from a sheet shop.
Final 2-pack of remaining parts and assemble.
All done, ready to ship out. It will last longer than me. All fasteners replaced with stainless steel. Everything assembled with anti-seize so the next guy can take it apart easy when the bearings need doing again in the future.

Beer O'clock.

Dont be a shit kent, gafa and zip ties!!