Welding Tips and Tricks

Ok guys,

I’ve been looking. Around and haven’t found anything that directly deals with this so here goes...

I’m gonna make a door that looks like this for my house:



The one in the picture is 4’ wide, but I need two that are 36”x72”.

Two inch tubing.


I have two or three questions.

What wall thickness of tubing should I choose since I just need it to hang together, i.e. it’s not supporting anything or doing any work?

What thickness of sheet do I need?

Where should I source my material so that it is most cost effective and efficient?

Please let me know if you need any more information to help answer these questions.

Thanks in advance,

Josh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Indoors? Painted? If yes, I would think 16 ga for square tubing, and same for the sheet.
Don't know where you are located, so hard to suggest for outside use.

VA-Sawyer wrote:Indoors? Painted? If yes, I would think 16 ga for square tubing, and same for the sheet.
Don't know where you are located, so hard to suggest for outside use.

indoors. For a kind of “industrial” look man cave. Not painted; I want it to look sort of rough. I can’t remember if it’s hot- or cold-rolled but I want “the one that’s not shiny”.

Another thing I was going to ask is if I need to oil it or finish it in some way to protect it from ambient moisture.

I’m near Charlotte, NC and I’ve looked at a Metalmarkets store in the city, I just want to make sure I’m not overpaying.

Also priced some online but it seems like shipping will make it prohibitively expensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1/16 tubing for sure. But I’d go even thinner on , like 20ga. Lots of small tacks. Then short stitches only to prevent massive warping.

There should be a Metal Supermarket in CLT. Check them out.

I really like the idea but I would wonder what the door would sound like when opening and closing. It is the think sheet metal that they use in the movies to make thunder. Would some diagonal braces eleviate that sound problem?

BillE.Dee wrote:I really like the idea but I would wonder what the door would sound like when opening and closing. It is the think sheet metal that they use in the movies to make thunder. Would some diagonal braces eleviate that sound problem?

That’s one thing I was hoping to avoid; having it make that warbling noise you can make with a hand saw lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it’s welded on all 4 sides there should be no “oil can”. Thin metal could vibrate, but some flat stock diagonals would address that. Or go to 16ga as was suggested.

There is an Alro Metals in Charlotte, and there's an Alro Metals Outlet in Greensboro. I have an Alro Metals outlet near me and its a great place to get material (cut to size if needed).

Check out this guys YT channel, he's made some similar doors and you may get some ideas for a build and/or a finish/patina

Be sure and post back as you build, that looks like it'll be cool

Thanks guys - this gives me a pretty good starting point. I’ll post some pics once I get going. Let me know if anybody thinks of something else I might wanna know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about using diamond plate instead of of flat sheet stock? It would definetly give you less bashing tin sounds when you open and close. And help your industrial look.

Not sure how the price compares tho. And it’d be a bit heavier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JayWal wrote:What about using diamond plate instead of of flat sheet stock? It would definetly give you less bashing tin sounds when you open and close. And help your industrial look.

Not sure how the price compares tho. And it’d be a bit heavier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good idea but they sure don't give that stuff away $$$

Hot rolled is the dark dull stuff. I have a problem with it rusting pretty quick in my shop, if it isn't painted. Best if it is cleaned up where the welds are going.
Cold rolled is the shiney stuff. It costs a bit more, but takes a lot less time to clean up for welding. For the industrial look, you can use cold bluing, and then wipe it down with oil. The cold blue leaves a very dark porous surface that absorbs the oil.
Are you planning on putting a vertical 'towel bar' handle on it?

VA-Sawyer wrote:Hot rolled is the dark dull stuff. I have a problem with it rusting pretty quick in my shop, if it isn't painted. Best if it is cleaned up where the welds are going.
Cold rolled is the shiney stuff. It costs a bit more, but takes a lot less time to clean up for welding. For the industrial look, you can use cold bluing, and then wipe it down with oil. The cold blue leaves a very dark porous surface that absorbs the oil.
Are you planning on putting a vertical 'towel bar' handle on it?

Thanks. I will look into that cold bluing. I was thinking about a handle of some kind. Maybe another piece of tubing or something. What do you think?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I feel a tube frame is a good idea, however it would be overkill for an interior door. Perhaps flat stock on edge/perpendicular to frame the door sheet metal. Pending the thickness of the door place layer(s) of sheet rock inside the cavity and weld the other sheet metal skin to capture/encapsulate it. If I recall 5/8”+ sheet rock will provide fire protection.

I feel the extra tubing walls is just not needed for an interior door. With all that said there is no kill like overkill!

As a side note the addition of a faux rivet always is appealing muck like a carriage bolt head. Perhaps drilling a hole and used the shortest carriage bolt such that is doesn’t pass through the other side would be a nice look. Just weld it on the inside.

This should be a fun project for you.

Take a look at the patina acids. They never disappoint.

Ballistic308 wrote:I feel a tube frame is a good idea, however it would be overkill for an interior door. Perhaps flat stock on edge/perpendicular to frame the door sheet metal. Pending the thickness of the door place layer(s) of sheet rock inside the cavity and weld the other sheet metal skin to capture/encapsulate it. If I recall 5/8”+ sheet rock will provide fire protection.

I feel the extra tubing walls is just not needed for an interior door. With all that said there is no kill like overkill!

As a side note the addition of a faux rivet always is appealing muck like a carriage bolt head. Perhaps drilling a hole and used the shortest carriage bolt such that is doesn’t pass through the other side would be a nice look. Just weld it on the inside.

This should be a fun project for you.

Some of those acid patinas look really cool. I want to careful not to make it too over the top though.

I’m having a hard time visualizing the structure of what you’re describing here though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Judgmentalist wrote:

Ballistic308 wrote:I feel a tube frame is a good idea, however it would be overkill for an interior door. Perhaps flat stock on edge/perpendicular to frame the door sheet metal. Pending the thickness of the door place layer(s) of sheet rock inside the cavity and weld the other sheet metal skin to capture/encapsulate it. If I recall 5/8”+ sheet rock will provide fire protection.

I feel the extra tubing walls is just not needed for an interior door. With all that said there is no kill like overkill!

As a side note the addition of a faux rivet always is appealing muck like a carriage bolt head. Perhaps drilling a hole and used the shortest carriage bolt such that is doesn’t pass through the other side would be a nice look. Just weld it on the inside.

This should be a fun project for you.

Some of those acid patinas look really cool. I want to careful not to make it too over the top though.

I’m having a hard time visualizing the structure of what you’re describing here though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My thoughts are to replace the tubed frame with flat stock which will be welded on its edge such that it’s perpendicular to the door skins. Does my sketch help? The inside cavity/volume will be filled with sheet rock cut to dimension. This will create sound dampening as well as some level of fire protection; just don’t completely weld it air tight.

The great part about bluing and patina acids are if you don’t like the results you can scrub it off with white scotch bright pads in a matter of minutes and start over.

Ballistic308 wrote:The great part about bluing and patina acids are if you don’t like the results you can scrub it off with white scotch bright pads in a matter of minutes and start over.

Thanks. Yeah the sketch makes sense. And it’s nice to know the patina thing isn’t a one-shot deal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ballistic308 wrote:Pending the thickness of the door place layer(s) of sheet rock inside the cavity and weld the other sheet metal skin to capture/encapsulate it. If I recall 5/8”+ sheet rock will provide fire protection.

Does my sketch help? The inside cavity/volume will be filled with sheet rock cut to dimension. This will create sound dampening as well as some level of fire protection; just don’t completely weld it air tight.

Pardon my input, but welding up the skins with drywall inside is a major fire risk. It's true that drywall has a fire retardant property, but butting it up against edges to be welded is likely going to create a significant risk of fire. The paper facing is combustible, and the welding process will generate a great deal more heat in the proximity. And if it were to catch fire inside the cavity after you're done, you could end up with a bad situation on your hands.

Completely appreciate the objective, just think a different material would be a better, safer choice if a "filled cavity" is the goal. Perhaps 2 thin metal skins where the second is "riveted" to the frame would be a safer choice. Then use a piece of rigid insulation in 1/2" thickness for sound damping.

One thing is for sure, with all the great ideas, your door will be the "Bomb!"

I agree, sheet rock is not fireproof I believe 5/8” is considered a 15 minute fire barrier. So it would burn up and crumble in enough heat. Welding right near it would at least scorch it, giving you a nice “bbq gone wrong” smell in your man cave.

There are fireproof insulation batts available if you do want sound dampening or the “filled panel” as Cj put it. Specifically a brand called Roxul is semi rigid and fireproof. They call it “stone wool” I’ve used it a lot back when I did some construction.

I agree with no welding the top skin on too. Rivets are cheap and easy and would give you that look you want.

Looking forward to see what you decide


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guys- I stayed “fire protection” not fire proof; there is a difference. Depending on how the weld/ fabrication is executed would determine how much heat is induced, such as short stitch welds across the top rather than a full bead or tabs across the top portion.

As stated riveting is an option, not as aesthetically please, but an option.

Ballistic308 wrote:Guys- I stayed “fire protection” not fire proof; there is a difference. Depending on how the weld/ fabrication is executed would determine how much heat is induced, such as short stitch welds across the top rather than a full bead or tabs across the top portion.

As stated riveting is an option, not as aesthetically please, but an option.

Cheers, I was not intimating that you had said fireproof at all. And I am not discounting that due care can achieve the proper result with drywall. All things need to be done sensibly, that's a given.

The Roxul is a great choice too. Was just pointing out that in order to keep the drywall "stable" it would need to be reasonably tight to the edges to prevent it from sloshing around with movement which could introduce a fire hazard when welding.

No offense intended to your idea-

It’s a good idea, but I’m not thinking about a filled cavity door right now. It’s not the look I want. The door I saw that I like was exposed tubing and sheet. But this conversation has got me thinking about the edges of the sheet.

The door I saw, they must’ve done something to finish that edge so it’s not too rough. I need to take a look at it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cj737 wrote:

Ballistic308 wrote:Guys- I stayed “fire protection” not fire proof; there is a difference. Depending on how the weld/ fabrication is executed would determine how much heat is induced, such as short stitch welds across the top rather than a full bead or tabs across the top portion.

As stated riveting is an option, not as aesthetically please, but an option.

Cheers, I was not intimating that you had said fireproof at all. And I am not discounting that due care can achieve the proper result with drywall. All things need to be done sensibly, that's a given.

The Roxul is a great choice too. Was just pointing out that in order to keep the drywall "stable" it would need to be reasonably tight to the edges to prevent it from sloshing around with movement which could introduce a fire hazard when welding.

No offense intended to your idea-

Yeah no worries, none taken.