Welding Tips and Tricks

I have a WP 9 TIG torch and can not find any information about what the ideal use for this torch is. The materials it is possibly used on, settings used for it and so on. I got it to use on very thin material or in locations where the smallest possible weld was required. I have not gotten it going to this point for some complex reasons and would enjoy hearing how others employ it - the joys of having it and the places not to use it. As I look at all the recommendations I have not found use for a .038 electrode. I would like to find a suitable material on which to practice that matches the small size of the unit. This last because practice on a 1/8 plate works best when everything else is 1/8 - well not so much... so how about the circumstances I describe? Would love to move forward with this torch - so here is a 1/8 plate for practice - what settings? Looking forward to a response or more.
Z

The 9 series torch is just like the 17 with a lower rated amperage (and in a smaller size of course). What can you use a 17 series torch? Pretty much anything so long as you are within working limits of the torch. Well, the same applies for the 9 series. Sure it has it's own line of consumables, but it's uses are limit-less so long as you stay at/under it's "typical" rating of 125A. AC TIG will reduce the duty cycle since that transfers heat to the torch way quicker than DC, but that applies to any air cooled torch. There is no such thing as oh, this torch only works for this kind of material, or only this kind of situation. If it can handle the amperage and can reach the joint, it can be used.

My approach stems from the concern of not discovering that I have ruined a bunch of gear and not asking it to perform outside it's capacity. Thank you for your reply. Your response makes sense but often that has no bearing!

You can get collets and electrodes for your #9 that range from .020 to 1/8". As it is air cooled, a 1/16" or 3/32" will be adequate most of the time. It is a handy torch for light duty work or awkward positions.
Try it, you'll like it.

Thanks to those responding. I have the parts (.020), just not the knowledge or experience. First off let's get it straight that I am not throwing rocks here but attempting to be direct. The comment that there are no wrong this or that.... well, use the wrong just about anything watch watch the circus. This is the pickiest process I have worked in and I make glass beads. This is really bitchy by comparison. I would love to know where to look should filler be required for these tiny sized projects. I am still in the practice phase because I an not ready to risk ruinng stuff to find out I had the wrong this or that. Over all this feels like one is sitting out here on a barren plane in the dusk alone.... I am surprised at the absence of information for near micro welding. Everything from 1/16th up has lots of information associated with it. Are there folks out there watching this who have been down this road and would share - or is this like the guitar player who has the killer chord and when you ask how he does that he says like this and turns so you can't see his hand? I fiddled with this yesterday and found that being off quickly defines the envelope of workable. Again, thanks for those who came back to me.
Z

I would say that .020 electrode is a bad place to start. I did some welding on aluminum that was .025 thick. Had better results using 1/16" electrode with long needle point, than with .040 electrode. The smaller tungsten would burn back into the cup at the slightest issue.
I still have a project that requires welding on aluminum that is only .011 thick.... about the same as 3 sheets of aluminum foil. I'm still working my way down to that thickness.
Eureka Welding has tig filler down to .005". Get their PDF catalog. There are other companies that sell very fine tig filler rod too.
Google Micro Tig, there is more info on it than you could read over a weekend. You may have to dig a bit for it. The pros are too busy trying to keep up with the demand. They don't have much time for preaching and teaching, but they do put some info out there .

One important thing to keep in mind when going to small torches and very thin materials is that you need a machine that can light an arc at or below single-digit amps.

In several reviews of various TIG machines Jody has mentioned that they will often start the arc with a quick 'burst' of higher amps and then throttle back automatically.

This is fine if you are doing thicker stuff and you can work around this 'burst' a little by lighting up on something like a copper piece next to the workpiece (Jody shows this too), but for real thin materials you need a machine that can light an arc at or below the current you expect to be welding on or you'll blow holes right through parts before even starting.

So a major part of being able to work with small and thin parts is not the torch you use, it's the power supply/machine.

Unfortunately as this area, like real 'big power' machines, moves away from the average off-the-shelf welding machine the prices of machines capable of doing this do tend to go up quite rapidly.

Bye, Arno.

VA-Sawyer wrote:I would say that .020 electrode is a bad place to start. I did some welding on aluminum that was .025 thick. Had better results using 1/16" electrode with long needle point, than with .040 electrode. The smaller tungsten would burn back into the cup at the slightest issue.
I still have a project that requires welding on aluminum that is only .011 thick.... about the same as 3 sheets of aluminum foil. I'm still working my way down to that thickness.
Eureka Welding has tig filler down to .005". Get their PDF catalog. There are other companies that sell very fine tig filler rod too.
Google Micro Tig, there is more info on it than you could read over a weekend. You may have to dig a bit for it. The pros are too busy trying to keep up with the demand. They don't have much time for preaching and teaching, but they do put some info out there .

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Here we have what I had hoped to come across..... Usually all I need is a direction to head and you have done this. Many thanks. Once i get rolling I usually do pretty well. This will help a lot! Kind regards

VA-Sawyer wrote:I would say that .020 electrode is a bad place to start. I did some welding on aluminum that was .025 thick. Had better results using 1/16" electrode with long needle point, than with .040 electrode. The smaller tungsten would burn back into the cup at the slightest issue.
I still have a project that requires welding on aluminum that is only .011 thick.... about the same as 3 sheets of aluminum foil. I'm still working my way down to that thickness.
Eureka Welding has tig filler down to .005". Get their PDF catalog. There are other companies that sell very fine tig filler rod too.
Google Micro Tig, there is more info on it than you could read over a weekend. You may have to dig a bit for it. The pros are too busy trying to keep up with the demand. They don't have much time for preaching and teaching, but they do put some info out there .

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Here we have what I had hoped to come across..... Usually all I need is a direction to head and you have done this. Many thanks. Once i get rolling I usually do pretty well. This will help a lot! Kind regards

A few days after posting this question I encountered this situation. Tiny part to be attached to a thick plate. The guy I am working for is massivey skilled and this is an art project not life threatening structural. He had provided a sample that he did with a millerlatic 200. There are two tiny legs to the piece so that it will permit the tab to be used to hold a screw which will secure the parts together. I was dismayed - this looked to me like the perfect place for a TIG employment. I got out the TIG, set it up and stopped. If he can do it I can do it. I really focused on what was going on and got the first tab. Every tab after that got better and better. I am aware of egos - I do my best never to go there. Have to say the bosses compliment on the results were pretty heartwarming. This is truly some adverse conditions and 65% machinery. I keep my stuff in absolute top shape. Just how I do it. This location the completion of the job is THE factor. This is a tiny event but what it does for your head is surprising.
Cheers,
Z

Hi Z,,,,I am one who constantly reads the posts and take a little info from here and there and try putting it all together. Reading your posts I get wondering ... Do you know a jeweler who makes repairs in his own shop? An old friend of mine is a jeweler and I purchased a new ring for my wife from him. I truly don't know what keeps his eyes from crossing while designing and making his rings. I believe he is working in different type materials,BUT still small. Just a thought about your micro work.

Bill

Bill, excellent direction. I don't know such a person but I am capable of getting to the heart of the matter with such a person if I can locate him. I appreciate your response. here is a bit further look into my journey. I am just trying to see how small I can go with what I have. This is kind of like drag racing, want to go faster just dump more money into it. I have reached the limit I am willing to travel for now any way. .020 electrodes at low amps. Now, like the tabs I mentioned I think it will be technique. I once saw a jeweler's unit, as I recall he had like 6K in it and it had it's own O2 generator. That is like moon landing equipment for me... I am occupied completely with assisting my present artist but will continue to seek small - for me - once it ends - 3-4 weeks. I'll come back about my results then. Again thanks for your thoughts - valuable indeed.
Z