General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
I am currently enrolled in school for welding and having A LOT of difficultly with SMAW Vertical. I have about a week left in the semester and struggled with my t-joint to the point that my instructor moved me on to my v groove to see if I could get it and if it would help with my t-joint. That was about a month ago and I'm struggling with it. I will run a few good ones and when the test comes I crap the bed or I run a few good ones and then crap the bed and have to run some more good ones to try to get to test. To shorten this up I am debating on dropping from the Diploma program and in 2 semesters if I could possibly have a TCC for MIG & TIG. Would it be smarter to get through SMAW regardless of how long it takes me in Vertical & Overhead first or take MIG & TIG and get into the work force? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
"Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence." VINCE LOMBARDI
hey there. Im a welding instructor and witness a lot of people struggle. BUT, I feel like you should really concentrate on finished smaw. You will develop many basic welding techniques that youll use along the way while tigg'in and migg'in. usually right before someone is ready to test, they come out of a slump. Now im not saying you shouldn't mess around with the other processes on your own time, but I wouldn't recommend just skipping getting certified on your stick. Best wishes,,, you're probably getting a lot closer than you think.
Hello tscmitt
Can you tell us what electrodes you are using?
What technique are you using for your vertical t joint? The only one I have tried is the weave with 7016, the end result while not pretty did look a whole lot better than trying a single bead.
Just my $0.02
Revo
Can you tell us what electrodes you are using?
What technique are you using for your vertical t joint? The only one I have tried is the weave with 7016, the end result while not pretty did look a whole lot better than trying a single bead.
Just my $0.02
Revo
I am using a 6010 for the root pass on both the t-joint and the open root. I tend to have the best results using a whip and pause motion, I will take some pics of my work today and share with you guys.
"Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence." VINCE LOMBARDI
I was able to pass both my t-joint and open root today, I will try to get pictures of both of them soon. Between having class during the day and staying at night for blue print one night and the rest of the week to weld and get everything done not sure how soon that will be. I have 3 more days to try and get my backing done so I can do a bend test.
"Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence." VINCE LOMBARDI
Here is my t joint & v groove without backing that I was passed on monday
- Attachments
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- V groove cover pass, I know it is an ugly one
- 20151204_084020.jpg (34.3 KiB) Viewed 3611 times
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- V groove root pass
- 20151204_084012.jpg (39.59 KiB) Viewed 3611 times
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- T joint root pass
- 20151204_083927.jpg (30.85 KiB) Viewed 3611 times
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- T joint cover pass
- 20151204_083927.jpg (30.85 KiB) Viewed 3611 times
"Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence." VINCE LOMBARDI
Hi tschmitt
Looks like your T joint images are two of the root pass. Minor detail.
I'm no welding veteran so this here is just my 2 cents contribution.
The uneven appearance on your welds seems more of a speed and position issue than anything else. Perhaps the initial root pass was over filled. When the cap was applied giving an overfull appearance. What angle do have the electrode for your vertial runs?
Perhaps a quicker pass with slight oscillation to flatten the bead and then use a slightly larger weave for the cap pass.
For your T joint, does it require a root pass? I would think a root pass would look very droopy. The flick and weave puts a lot of metal down. Also hard to make look right without a big bump in the middle of the weld. This method may also have defects because the arc does not reach the root of the joint.
Looks like your T joint images are two of the root pass. Minor detail.
I'm no welding veteran so this here is just my 2 cents contribution.
The uneven appearance on your welds seems more of a speed and position issue than anything else. Perhaps the initial root pass was over filled. When the cap was applied giving an overfull appearance. What angle do have the electrode for your vertial runs?
Perhaps a quicker pass with slight oscillation to flatten the bead and then use a slightly larger weave for the cap pass.
For your T joint, does it require a root pass? I would think a root pass would look very droopy. The flick and weave puts a lot of metal down. Also hard to make look right without a big bump in the middle of the weld. This method may also have defects because the arc does not reach the root of the joint.
Root pass is required for everything we do in school, I do a lot of whip and pause in vertical with my 6010s. I have would without any motion that progresses forward a little it droops and sags to much. I thought I posted the cover pass, here it is:
- Attachments
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- 20151204_084002.jpg (29.8 KiB) Viewed 3586 times
"Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence." VINCE LOMBARDI
Hi tschmitt
Those vertical stringers look pretty good considering they don't look very nice in any case, hard to flatten the weld profile.
Something I found that might be useful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ScGeTUWfoQ
He is using 7018's though. What are the weld puddle properties like of your 6010's in comparison? The T joint vertical up root pass shows a single bead with a little oscillation to help flatten it out somewhat. The video pretty much sums up anything I could add.
Hope this helps.
Revo
Those vertical stringers look pretty good considering they don't look very nice in any case, hard to flatten the weld profile.
Something I found that might be useful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ScGeTUWfoQ
He is using 7018's though. What are the weld puddle properties like of your 6010's in comparison? The T joint vertical up root pass shows a single bead with a little oscillation to help flatten it out somewhat. The video pretty much sums up anything I could add.
Hope this helps.
Revo
My 2 pass and cover pass were run with 7018, is it common or better to use 7018 to run a root pass? I had some issues all semester with rod angle and travel speed but for the most part that is how my roots looked on a regular with a fee that were a little worse.
"Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence." VINCE LOMBARDI
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