Despite the tweaking I did to the little 4X6 horizontal bandsaw to make very good square repeatable cuts, the production rate on stainless is just too low. They are finally going to consider a good dry-cut saw.
They are looking at the Morse that was posted here (I shared it with them), and I'm going to share the Dewalt 14" that's last topic on the product reviews page.
I'm looking for any and all recommendations from anyone who has used these on stainless steel a lot. Which machine, and which blade with that machine, is the best combination for regularly cutting sch. 10 304SS pipe?
Your opinions are appreciated!
Steve S
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
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Steve would something like this work for you?
http://www.exacttools.com/en-us/metal-pipe-saws
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qfnTsME9Qks
I have the 220E cuts sch40 pretty damn quick and straight once dialed in, I even use it for my 1.50" sanitary tube. Blades run around $50 off the top of my head. Now the blade life isn't that great when cutting 316L, I get about 24-30 cuts, but they can be resharpened. Carbon steel life is much better.
I know they can find a rep in your area and come out and do a demo for you.
Otherwise we have a large horizontal Wells saw that does OK, but you have to have the speed right or it will not cut as straight as you would like. I'll use my Tritool saw guide and a portaban a lot as well.
http://www.exacttools.com/en-us/metal-pipe-saws
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qfnTsME9Qks
I have the 220E cuts sch40 pretty damn quick and straight once dialed in, I even use it for my 1.50" sanitary tube. Blades run around $50 off the top of my head. Now the blade life isn't that great when cutting 316L, I get about 24-30 cuts, but they can be resharpened. Carbon steel life is much better.
I know they can find a rep in your area and come out and do a demo for you.
Otherwise we have a large horizontal Wells saw that does OK, but you have to have the speed right or it will not cut as straight as you would like. I'll use my Tritool saw guide and a portaban a lot as well.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
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Thanks! I'll be checking all that out as soon as I'm caught up on forum maintenance. (That sounds WAY fancier than it is... I just read every new post looking for abuse, rule-breaking [both exceedingly rare], and new members who's first post has not yet been approved.)
Steve S
Steve S
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I'm definitely going to have a look, though I'm sure the boss will balk at the price. If the reviews are as solid as I expect, I might be able to sell it.Alumike wrote:I just saw (no pun intended)a Jet cold saw at MSC for $999. Perhaps that is an option.
It was in their current sale flyer.
BTW, I was sharing terrible puns at work today. I thought by the tenth one, at least one of them would earn a good belly-laugh, but no pun in ten did.
Steve S
I have an older Evolution 355 which is identical to the Morse. Very nice saw.
Cold cut and dry cut are really 2 different things. Cold cuts usually don't run as fast but the blade life is going to be longer
Cold cut and dry cut are really 2 different things. Cold cuts usually don't run as fast but the blade life is going to be longer
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Yeah, I would prefer dry-cut, for the easier setup and mobility. For a cold-cut saw I'd have to set up a more permanent station, but if the price is right...
Steve S
Steve S
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Here are some cuts with the Dewalt DW 872 . FYI , I am cutting very slow and barely any downward pressure, I have no need to push it, i'm not on the clock, just hanging in the garage. I know it will cut faster . I only have cuts on mild steel and 3/8" 7075 Aluminum . I can get vid some 304 SS , maybe tomorrow . I also have some CrMo tube I can cut. This saw has a pretty hard start , it jumps when you start . I could do without that !
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https://youtu.be/Lqj4CH9v_yQ
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https://youtu.be/lDoxSu1hrWk
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https://youtu.be/Lqj4CH9v_yQ
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https://youtu.be/lDoxSu1hrWk
What's the RPM on that Dewalt? Here it's a quick cut with my Evolution dry cut I took years ago https://youtu.be/4yEozmsITic
Algal you should use an aluminum blade to cut aluminum. They have a zero or negative rake to reduce fouling up
Algal you should use an aluminum blade to cut aluminum. They have a zero or negative rake to reduce fouling up
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Southpaw that's one hella fast cut !soutthpaw wrote:What's the RPM on that Dewalt? Here it's a quick cut with my Evolution dry cut I took years ago https://youtu.be/4yEozmsITic
It's 1300 RPM on the Dewalt . I'm running an Aluminum blade cutting the 7075 , and a 90T Stainless cutting blade for the mild steel and stainless.
Just cut some 304 SS box tubing ------> https://youtu.be/L7Y4p2kN9c4
I use hardly any down pressure...take my time, I figure the blades will last longer, and i'm not on any deadline, just doing diy stuff in the garage .
Last edited by subwayrocket on Wed Oct 21, 2015 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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weldin mike 27 wrote:@mosquito moto this is what you need
Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk
That does make some nice cuts. Not much clean up to do there.
Kym
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These saws are nice, but expensive.weldin mike 27 wrote:@mosquito moto this is what you need
If anyone is on a budget I would highly recommend the Rigid brand abrasive chop saw you see in the background on some of my vids . Yeah it's not as precise, and makes dust, but it works if u dont have $450 plus hundred dollar carbide blades.
I've had a few 14" abrasive chop saws (Dewalt, HarborFt, Milwaukee , none of them hold a candle to the Rigid.
Rigid's motor is twice as big, the base is much more solid, the vise is definitely better, smooth starts, very good ergo's ...The Rigid is just better in every way. I have the Rigid model R41424 , about $200
I have a lot of Dewalt, Milwaukee and Makita tools...they are great, but for the abrasive saws Rigid is the shizz .
Just as a slight diversion, I have a dewalt abrasive chop saw. No matter how much time I spend squaring up the blade in both directions it has never produced a square cut. Is it just me or is it pos?
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
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Coldman wrote:I have a dewalt abrasive chop saw. No matter how much time I spend squaring up the blade in both directions it has never produced a square cut. Is it just me or is it pos?
It's not you, it's the saw. I had the dewalt ...it's motor also started sparking after about 2 days of "homeowner" use ...I got the Rigid abrasive saw and everything about it is better ...and it's $199
Also, Fyi the Diablo and Dewalt brand abrasive blades seem to cut better.
Last edited by subwayrocket on Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
There is a big diferance between brands of blades. Some that have internal mesh seem to cut straighter but the cheap ones seem to flex a lot and never the same way twice.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
Hi thanks for the video I am also considering this saw for box section and it seems to cut quite well.subwayrocket wrote:Southpaw that's one hella fast cut !soutthpaw wrote:What's the RPM on that Dewalt? Here it's a quick cut with my Evolution dry cut I took years ago https://youtu.be/4yEozmsITic
It's 1300 RPM on the Dewalt . I'm running an Aluminum blade cutting the 7075 , and a 90T Stainless cutting blade for the mild steel and stainless.
Just cut some 304 SS box tubing ------> https://youtu.be/L7Y4p2kN9c4
I use hardly any down pressure...take my time, I figure the blades will last longer, and i'm not on any deadline, just doing diy stuff in the garage .
Did you find the fence adequate for accurate mitres? Also is the noise level tolerable?
Doesen't the standard blade allow stainless to be cut?
Your advice appreciated as I need to make a decision to buy the DeWalt or invest in the next level up cold saw running coolant
such as the Baleigh 275
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I would try to go somewhere that has these saws, bring a small piece of box tubing and try the fence for yourself.
I have a very nice Makita sliding miter saw that does angles and bevels (on wood) , I am spoiled with these kind of accurate fences over the years . None of these metal saws I've tried (in my opinion) are that kind of accurate or build quality. I've watched a few video's on the DW872 that I have , they rant and rave about how great it is ....yes it does cut steel , SS and Alum clean and nice , but for this kind of money the fence and lock down mechanism is just "ok" , not fantastic . From what I've read, Evolution made a nice saw in this price range but they cut corners in that model after 2013 ...so i'm not sure what to tell ya, Keep researching and asking . All of these saws are very loud . I've made cuts in the garage after midnight, my neighbors say they cant hear it...but they are LOUD . Good luck
I have a very nice Makita sliding miter saw that does angles and bevels (on wood) , I am spoiled with these kind of accurate fences over the years . None of these metal saws I've tried (in my opinion) are that kind of accurate or build quality. I've watched a few video's on the DW872 that I have , they rant and rave about how great it is ....yes it does cut steel , SS and Alum clean and nice , but for this kind of money the fence and lock down mechanism is just "ok" , not fantastic . From what I've read, Evolution made a nice saw in this price range but they cut corners in that model after 2013 ...so i'm not sure what to tell ya, Keep researching and asking . All of these saws are very loud . I've made cuts in the garage after midnight, my neighbors say they cant hear it...but they are LOUD . Good luck
I've got the Morse 14" Metal Devil (~$500 shipped on Amazon). It's been a great saw. My only complaint is the clamping system doesn't have the quick release. Other than that, it has been flawless. A lower tooth count will make the blades last longer. It came with a 48T and lasted about a year for me. I threw on a 72T and made it 3 months. 60T is where I'm at now since I couldn't find a 48T at a reasonable price and it has been surviving quite well so far.
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That's what we finally ordered, was the Morse, and a 66T blade specifically for Stainless.AKmud wrote:I've got the Morse 14" Metal Devil (~$500 shipped on Amazon). It's been a great saw. My only complaint is the clamping system doesn't have the quick release. Other than that, it has been flawless. A lower tooth count will make the blades last longer. It came with a 48T and lasted about a year for me. I threw on a 72T and made it 3 months. 60T is where I'm at now since I couldn't find a 48T at a reasonable price and it has been surviving quite well so far.
I'll give my thoughts once it arrives and is up and running.
Steve S
i have had one (14" metal devil) for over a year now.
cuts straight and quick with the right blades.
get the optional V-blocks for clamping.
craig
cuts straight and quick with the right blades.
get the optional V-blocks for clamping.
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
I have a Makita LC1230. Great saw. Very fast, accurate and the disks last a lot even after abuse (I have even used mine to cut 50mm diameter Ck45 solid rod as well as solid 60mm 5083 aluminum rod)
However I am not sure dry cut saws are the best solution if someone has to do a lot of cutting on stainless steel.
However I am not sure dry cut saws are the best solution if someone has to do a lot of cutting on stainless steel.
Hi taz, just got one of these machines at work, makes short work of 25mm square tubing, 90's and 45's all day long.taz wrote:I have a Makita LC1230. Great saw. Very fast, accurate and the disks last a lot even after abuse (I have even used mine to cut 50mm diameter Ck45 solid rod as well as solid 60mm 5083 aluminum rod)
However I am not sure dry cut saws are the best solution if someone has to do a lot of cutting on stainless steel.
A question though, the standard 60T blade makes some harmonic/vibrating sound when cutting through tubing. Anything with two walls to cut through.
Does yours do the same?
Revo
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