I need to build up a small cam for an antique door knob that is worn. Have Tig, torch,or anything else common. Brass too hard to do,or use Silver Solder? Never used SS for a build up before. Advise, comments? Wondering if I could keep part of the part submerged in water to control heat.
- Otto Nobedder
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I have thoughts on this, but my advice depends somewhat on the size of the piece. I'm assuming quite small, as a component of a lockset.
A picture would help... A picture with the part laying on a tape-measure would help even more.
Steve S
A picture would help... A picture with the part laying on a tape-measure would help even more.
Steve S
. The areas that need built up are on the sides of the "V".
DO NOT USE WATER.welding and h2o do not like each. You can purchase some heat sink material from your local weld shop or auto body shop. its like a clay substance. I think one trade name is " heat fence".
If the brass has a lot of zinc in it,it will let you know with a lot of white smoke, hissing,sputtering, etc. using the gtaw weld process. If I were doing this project, I would silver solder a small piece of brass onto the object using #8 silver solder and a good flux made for silver solder. A weld supply shop should have both........good luck.
Ron
If the brass has a lot of zinc in it,it will let you know with a lot of white smoke, hissing,sputtering, etc. using the gtaw weld process. If I were doing this project, I would silver solder a small piece of brass onto the object using #8 silver solder and a good flux made for silver solder. A weld supply shop should have both........good luck.
Ron
dirtmidget33
- dirtmidget33
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Part looks pretty simple, prolly easier and faster to just remake the part. Talk to a machinist can't see it taking to long to copy and remake it. when you consider time of weld prep, welding, then filing it down, could have brand new part.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
Agreedirtmidget33 wrote:Part looks pretty simple, prolly easier and faster to just remake the part. Talk to a machinist can't see it taking to long to copy and remake it. when you consider time of weld prep, welding, then filing it down, could have brand new part.
old fashioned open flame and silver solder(good)
with that sample and a machinist new part(better)
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
I am the machinist and was trying to avoid making the whole part over. Will go the silver solder route. Have seen a part brazed while laying on a damp rag to control heat, but it was a lot bigger part. Did not know if I could control TIG heat enough to avoid melting the whole part.
- Otto Nobedder
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I agree with the silver-solder route. You'll still have the brass brown to dull-red, but won't melt it.
One observation: There's much more wear on the right (opening the lockset), so I'd examine the slot in the key (which I assume is iron or steel) for a sharp edge that could use a dress with a file.
Steve S
One observation: There's much more wear on the right (opening the lockset), so I'd examine the slot in the key (which I assume is iron or steel) for a sharp edge that could use a dress with a file.
Steve S
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Find an old-school hardware store, take the assembled lockset, and try every skeleton key they have. You will likely find a match. There were not that many combinations available in a simple "one-tumbler" lock, and the key fit is determined by the shape of the cavity around that single tumbler/bolt.mcostello wrote:No key, will be filing to fit a new one. All by guess or by golly fitting. Owner never had a key.
Steve S
