[Wade Patton]

Hey folks, Century 230 AC machine started slipping it's amperage control today. Opened it up, "release" lever already had slack in the linkage indicating fullest tension was being applied by the spring. Adjusted it anyway, no change. Would take a stronger spring or some sort of shimmage to enable more clamping force.

SO i went external and looped a chain over the control, roped it tight to the doorframe and wondered if the machine would climb the rope.

It didn't, but it would "adjust" down 10 amps after i thought i had it tight.

_That_ is another good time to have two rods that'll run the same amperage setting.

Now I'm planning a better solution and will be constructing an external mechanical stop. I'm thinking a chain looped over the control and slipped into a slots (attached to top of box) would be quickest. Use staggered slots for "accuracy".

OR a possibly: disable the "catch", attach control to nut on threaded rod affixed vertically, crank on top end of rod. Crank it up or down. Add locking mechanism if necessary (jam nut).

Yes I know too much work for a simple machine, but I have to make it work if at all possible period. And sorta kinda enjoy re-riggery engineering(RRE) once i get past the "dammit it broke" stage.

Any Q's or comments or better solutions? Anybody else mess with one of these? tnx

[Otto Nobedder]

Why not clamp a pair of needle-nose vice grips under the slider each time you set it?

Steve S

[Wade Patton]

Why not clamp a pair of needle-nose vice grips under the slider each time you set it?

Steve S

I'm short on clamps mostly. Only have one pair of NNVG and they've not presented themselves lately (MIA). But also mostly because that would chew up the paint and markings in short order.

I do have a sliding bar clamp that might be incorporated, haven't looked at it yet.

Also I don't have much use for "all thread" rod and this would utilize some that's been laying around forever.

Of course I'll have to tie it to the chain again to make any weldments for the purpose.

Thanks for input. Gotta show the machine who is boss.

[Wade Patton]

First quickie fix: chain, rope(mule tape), trucker hitch was too stretchy and slow to adjust.

I Used small chain looped over stainless steel peg (spoke) today, but that pulled once things got warmed up. Smaller chain allowed finer "jumps" between adjustments, but requires really small peg. This worked fine for a couple of rods, but as things heated up, it slipped from 105 to 85!

Screwing angle iron to top of case tomorrow, then applying counter-tension to adjuster with woodworking/sliding bar clamp. This solution appears to be rigid and easy enough to adjust. Just drill holes, install screws, set amperage, snug up clamp on setting.

I'm tempted to use a scale to measure the tension applied by the current. Be a good excuse to "self-burn" a drag rod.

[Wade Patton]

I fixed it, WHOOHOO now i can adjust a few amps at a time, and no more slippage.

details, bottom to top: drilled hole in cart frame, tapered threaded rod to rest in hole. fabricated slider from part of bracket out of junkpile, tubing, nuts. Drilled through-hole in angle steel to hold top of rod. Bent large spike nail 90 and welded to top of rod for cranking. Also locked open (zip tie) the failing factory slide-lock, then cut most of it off for clearance.

NOW i can grab 1/2 or full-turn amp increase/decrease, that holds. Now i have control without clamps and brackets.

Better off Modified Baby! (BOMB'ed)

Making do with what i has to do with. With this thing bottomed out it's still too hot for 1/16 7014, but near perfect for 5/64 6013. Using heatsinks for both of those tiny rods. 5/32 runs it hard. 3/32 and 1/8 are the cheese. New fresh dry 7018 (Lincoln 7018ac-rsp 3/32) is super cheese!

[Otto Nobedder]

Damn forum STILL doesn't have a "like" button.

Creative solution!

I assume the top nut is your "jamb-nut" to lock down your setting?

Steve S

[Wade Patton]

Burned a few more sticks with it today, found an issue--need to tie welder to the cart. I caught it raising itself up a little by pushing the down on the threaded rod.

No jam nut, rotation isn't a problem. There's a nut on either end of a tube that was fitted into that piece of bracket. Nuts on both ends to prevent binding. Tacked all that together with the micro rods (1/16 and 5/64).

I was worried about the pitch of the threads and how that would come out. It could have been too slow or fast. But it turns out to be about 3 cranks to 10 amps, or 3.3 amps per revolution of the handle. So i pretty much hit it a full turn or two every time i'm fine tuning up for application. Half-turns 1.6 amps and that's about as fine a tuning as i can comprehend with sticks.

I'd really like to calibrate the machine now. Use a test meter to "certify" the scale and make a pointer for easier (and correct) readings. But I'll probably upgrade soon enough to make this point moot. AC/DC stick/tig machines haunt my dreams many nights. (ultimately want to set up to fab with Ti and Al, but Ti mostly).

[fades back to current reality]

Last thing i did today was crank it down to minimum and used 5/64 6013 to fill drilled holes in thin square tubing...was almost easy. Am making a cargo extension support for my truck (specifically for 15" kayak).

First thing tomorrow I'll attach the buzzbox to the dolly frame with a couple of screws. That should keep her from Rising Up gain. I may also yank the whole cover and find the gawdawful vibrational buzzes. I know that if it's in the transformer, to just live with it, but methinks some of that sheetmetal is resonating - that could be fixed.

cheers

[Otto Nobedder]

Try binding it to the cart with a ratchet-strap... If it's external sheet metal rattling, you might kill two birds with one stone.

Just a thought.

Steve S

[Wade Patton]

I tied it down with a mule tape, trucker hitch.

Then the "High" tap on the transformer quit working properly. The machine is buzzing rather loudly SUPER BUZZ BOX, and wouldn't light a 3/32 7018 up at 120 130 amps. I smashed the electrode into the table and it would barely burn the wire up inside the flux.

Put it on "low" tap and backed to to 90, welded normally aside from the extreme buzzing (I do believe the transformer laminations are delaminating).

I have learned to love 7018(ac) rather quickly, can't wait to run it on DC.

The adjuster "fix" has been working great, but now the machine appears to be going to crap.

BUT NOW that I have a regular J O B!!! I'm shopping for a starter TIG/Stick machine. Saving for that (amongst other things) begins Tuesday with that first paycheck.

The job may also provide me with lots of metal, access to a manual lathe and mill, but alas there's no TIG at work. I haven't inquired yet, but I see the "potential" in the stock and scraps, and those "dormant" machines.

Things are looking UP for me, but down for the old Century crackerbox. I'll save the cranker if I junk the machine, configure it for some other solution eh?

[Otto Nobedder]

Wade,

Congratulations on the new job!

I'd suggest saving for a bit above the first entry-level machine you can afford. It's too easy and quick to outgrow a machine and regret not buying up a level or two. With the remarable offerengs available today, you can now get a really versatile machine you won't quickly outgrow for under (approximating, based on reviews I've seen) $1500.

Kudos for the effort you've put in keeping your current machine alive for practice!

Steve S