Miller 330 a/bp

ejpoter · Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:15 pm

Dose anybody know if the foot pedal should brake the arc when let off all the way. I am having to move the torch away from the work and can't keep the gas on the spot.?

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Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:28 pm

Welcome!

Yes, when you back off all the way on the pedal, the arc should break, allowing postflow of gas with no arc. I'd first look inside the pedal. There are two main parts, electrically speaking. A potentiometer (three wires) that varies the amps, and a switch (two wires) that controls on/off. The switch postion may need adjusted.

I also have a 250DX at work with a pedal that is "slow" to stop the arc. I have to physically push my heel down to get it to stop, and I expect to find I need to adjust the switch.

Steve S

ejpoter · Tue Mar 11, 2014 7:25 pm

Thank you! Just picked up this welder. I've been wanting one of these. Just wasn't sure on the foot pedal.

ejpoter · Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:33 pm

The foot pedal works great once o turned on the contactor switch to remote. My mistake.

Another question. Is the machine scratch start only. And if not. What do I need to check to make it work.

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Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:32 pm

Yes, you should have high-frequency start.

Here's a manual for your machine or very similar:

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o340l_mil.pdf

Here's all the manuals for that machine; Choose by your serial number:

http://www.millerwelds.com/service/loca ... me=330A/BP

These should help you troubleshoot.

Steve S

MinnesotaDave · Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:46 pm

Here is a tech manual (and some others):
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7ijbgx67wuq6ivd/sYvAlvq_LC

Did you turn the high freq switch on?
Also, for tig your balancing resistor lever is in the open position.

ejpoter · Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:33 pm

Thanks. I have tiged a little but those machines were already set up. And my previous setup was a miller 250 dial arc with a 17 air cooled tourch. So setup is new.

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rick9345 · Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:59 am

for the price those big old refrigerators are sweet. Just make sure pedal is tuned up and points set and input amperage wiring are adequate. Get a small 20 series size torch as most came with a big one for their max amp capabities(too clumsey for learning with) the smaller and super flex torch will accelerate the learning curve. Gas lens gas saver will/can really cut down argon usage($ saved) more toys. Stick tungsten out where you can see it. Auto dark helmet for beginers(saves eyes for newbies).

ejpoter · Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:30 pm

Will definitely agree with the auto dark helment. Already cleaned the points for the high frequency and set gap. With the machine set up proper makes a little difference. LOL.

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Scott · Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:20 pm

rick9345 wrote: Gas lens gas saver will/can really cut down argon usage($ saved) more toys.

I have this machine and have a question about this. My gas stays on. Is it designed like this or getting the other torch the answer to help it quit. I have the water system for it buy haven't hooked it up yet. Thanks for any info you can give me.

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Braehill · Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:29 pm

Scott,
There's a solenoid inside the welder that have a tendency to stick open. You can take it out and clean it fairly easy, usually just your two gas lines and two machine screws through the case that hold it in. Contact cleaner works and check for any debri in the ports. It has a spring that closes it and any crap in it and it will not close. There are two wires that go to it so make sure your welder is unplugged. I don't think the polarity on these wires matter but best to mark them anyway.

Len

Scott · Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:33 pm

Thanks a lot Len!! I will try that. I really like this welder but just have to learn its in and outs.

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ejpoter · Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:33 pm

Under the front cover there should be two valves. With two wires going to each. As you face the machine the gas valve is on your right and water is on the left. In between them there should be a black box with a dial on the front with seconds on it. That's the timer for pots flow. Make share all components are there. A lot of machines I looked at before I bought this one didn't have everything.

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ejpoter · Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:35 pm

Sorry missed the post from braehill.

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Scott · Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:19 pm

Thanks for all the info. Every little bit helps. And sorry and thanks ejpoter for letting highjack your thread.

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ejpoter · Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:48 pm

How long have you had this machine?

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Scott · Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:48 pm

A few months. I've used the stick but haven't got in to the tig much.

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ejpoter · Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:49 pm

Just bought a new lead and stinger for mine. Haven't stick weld with it yet. If its anything like my 250 dialarc I'm going to love this welder.

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DCALLWELD · Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:44 am

On your machine do you hook you has supply up to the end of the torch where your power goes ? Or do you hook it up to the machine ? If you hook it up to the machine it will have a gas switch that will stop the flow after so many seconds and some ( my miller scynowave 250 ) have a post and pre flow timer adjustment , how ever if you don't have this option all you need is to get a torch with a gas valve on it . Most dry ( non watter cooled torches ) have one. My torch as one but is just leave it wide on bc the machine will control it. In your case you will just turn the the gas on and drop your mask .

ejpoter · Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:04 pm

I think you misunderstood my post. I have had a 250 dialarc for a long time and love it. But I've been wanting a tig welder. The one I have been looking for I just bought a couple of weeks ago. And bought a new stick lead for it. It didn't have a stick lead. I love the welder. It has pots flow timer and both solenoid valves for gas and water. I have a thumb wheel tig torch set up for my old dialarc and worked good scratch start.

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MCE · Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:21 pm

I've owned one of these 330s for 16 years. Its a HOSS! Here's a trick I learned for making starting easier.
Ground out the tungsten on the work before lighting off, HF starts are much easier for some reason.

TamJeff · Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:23 am

I have the A/BP as well. It is a beast that you know is going to work every time. It is a lot quieter than square wave, which can be deceiving if you have been welding with an inverter or square wave for a bit. But, when you get that instant initial puddle on aluminum 'without' the arc wander of the square waves, welding AC suddenly becomes pleasant again.

Square wave. . . .aaaaargh. A/BP. . . . .ahhhhhhhhh.