[Crew Chief]

License Plate Restoration.jpg (38.31 KiB) Viewed 3822 times

First of all, I am still an armature of all that is welding. Still learning all processes which I enjoy, even though I screw things up. Here is my dilemma. I am going to restore a set of 1930 Texas license plates that will go on my 1930 Ford Hot Rod Coupe when I am finished with it. As you all well know, this is very thing metal. My question is do I try using Tig to fill in the holes or turn down the Mig as low as it will go and use a copper backing plate on both? I have a Miller Dynasty 200DX and a Millermatic 212.

[Coldman]

In this case I would spot weld (blat) with mig and dress with a dremel.

[Poland308]

I would recommend a copper or aluminum backer. Thin work like this takes a steady hand and the patience of a saint. Try it on a similar plate before the one you want to save.

[Spartan]

You have two things working against you. It’s very thin, and it’s likely corroded/pitted a bit due to age. That’s a big ticket for someone new to welding, especially since they are “one of a kind” type things where you can’t really just grab another piece of stock if you booger up the first one. I’d recommend getting some scrap metal of similar thickness, letting it corrode a bit outside, drilling some similar holes in it that need filling, and then practicing several times on that first. Also definitely recommend backing material as others suggested, but be aware that some of the reliefs it looks like are stamped into the plate may make it difficult to properly mate the backing bars. Use small bars if needed. Sometimes I’ll use just the tiniest piece of scrap AL for backing in tight places because it’s way better than nothing. Good luck!

Oh, and I would definitely run TIG on that to give me the most arc/heat/puddle control but that is just personal preference. If you’re better with MIG then probably go with MIG.

[LtBadd]

Being so thin and corroded the area around the hole has a good chance of just opening up with any MIG or TIG arc, since this is a one of a kind live or die situation I'd probably not try welding JMO

[kiwi2wheels]

An option would be to chemically remove the rust / paint and use soft brass shim on the backside, fixed with soft solder using an acid flux. Tin the brass and the plate before fixing to the backside, and then slowly, using minimum heat, fill the holes on the front side using a soldering iron rather than a flame, or use body filler.

[Spartan]

....or use body filler.

I think this^ is the best option for that type of restoration. Welding metal that is both thin and rusty is really a nightmare. To hopefully put it in perspective for you, I've got years of experience doing exactly that, and have gotten pretty good at it...but even I would be reluctant to take this on because of how unique the parts are. That bondo is sounding like a dang good idea to me. Just my thoughts.

[eelman308]

JB Weld?

[Crew Chief]

All very good ideas and advice. I do have a partial plate that was attached to an old barn on the place that I will experiment with and see what works best. Thank you all.

Sorry for the late response. It has been very cold down here in Central Texas. Lost power, internet and water all about the same time. We now have power and internet. No water and it looks like we will not get any for several days. I am starting to get a bit rank. Baby wipes only work for so long.

[Poland308]

Snow+heat=water

[BugHunter]

I would start with this process...
https://www.wwgoa.com/video/electrolysis-rust-removal/#

https://www.wwgoa.com/video/electrolysis-rust-removal/

And from there I'd silicon bronze the holes with the Dynasty and clean up the surface with a small grinder / sander.

Ymmv.

I did that not long ago on a sledge hammer head I found. Used a strip of sheet metal 3" x ?? made into a ring for in the bucket, which gave a much larger anode and worked in 1/4th the time he said above in the video. Clean and wire brush when done, and you're ready to weld / paint. Obviously dry it quickly once clean.