So in another thread the topic turned to the possibility of a burned power cable , and that reminded me that many years ago I had a tig torch that leaked so I removed the outer material to find a crack in the water line in the neck, enjoy.
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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Richard,
In that thread there was mention of some type of fused connection, either wire braid or what sounded like a fuse. Possibly not, but I was wondering if you could take a pic showing the electrical side and what that looks like behind the water lines? Or is that just the gas?
I've never been quite clear on how the electrical and gas get to the torch and/if if the electrical travels on the outside of the gas portion.
(looking for some education here! )
In that thread there was mention of some type of fused connection, either wire braid or what sounded like a fuse. Possibly not, but I was wondering if you could take a pic showing the electrical side and what that looks like behind the water lines? Or is that just the gas?
I've never been quite clear on how the electrical and gas get to the torch and/if if the electrical travels on the outside of the gas portion.
(looking for some education here! )
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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Ok, but you didn't actually answer what I was confused about.Oscar wrote:Water comes in through the the 1/4"-20 threaded fitting.
Water leaves the torch through one of the barb fittings.
Shielding gas enters the torch through the other remaining barb fittings.
Is the arc initiated through the gas? Doesn't there need to be some type of electrical connection for the arc?
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
Oh, the electricity travels through the copper wire conductor inside the water hose that goes to the threaded fitting. The arc only emanates from the tungsten.TraditionalToolworks wrote:Ok, but you didn't actually answer what I was confused about.Oscar wrote:Water comes in through the the 1/4"-20 threaded fitting.
Water leaves the torch through one of the barb fittings.
Shielding gas enters the torch through the other remaining barb fittings.
Is the arc initiated through the gas? Doesn't there need to be some type of electrical connection for the arc?
1:53 into the video
Ytbq8viJPJ8
So yea, that looks to be anywhere from 12-16ga to my eyes.
Last edited by Oscar on Sun Apr 26, 2020 9:19 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Electricity flows through the tubing walls.
Edit; so when you over heat a torch it often melts out the solder between the tubing and one of the ends, leaving you with a poor connection.
Edit; so when you over heat a torch it often melts out the solder between the tubing and one of the ends, leaving you with a poor connection.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
TraditionalToolworks
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Couldn't this be re-soldered to repair it? Doesn't the braided copper connect to the threaded fitting which Oscar points out, then through the fitting to the torch head, right?Poland308 wrote:Edit; so when you over heat a torch it often melts out the solder between the tubing and one of the ends, leaving you with a poor connection.
As a DIY type person I as originally thinking to check all connections for connectivity and/or clean/repair them.
Interesting video Oscar posted. Seems even on a gas hose it would be possible to snip the hose and re-attach it to the threaded fitting, or is that a difficult procedure?
Sorry for some many Qs, just trying to understand if in Mark's case it's possible to repair his torch? I realize we don't actually know what his problem is, but Richard shows what his is.
In regard to my question to Richard, I was originally thinking that current traveled up copper braid and attached to the threaded portion, but wanted to see how the threaded portion connected to the torch head. From both of your description that seems to be the case. Is that the segment that fails, as Josh mentions? (i.e., between the threaded portion and the torch head)
I am ANAL but IANAL...
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
I'm sure it is possible to fix, but it reminds me of the guy on weldingweb. He desperately wanted to build his own alternator-based engine driven generator. So he could weld. I'll repeat that: so he could weld (!). You have to draw your own line as to just how far you want to go back down the welding evolutionary ladder before you spend a lifetime trying to re-invent the wheel and never actually get to the project you initially wanted to tackle.TraditionalToolworks wrote:Couldn't this be re-soldered to repair it? Doesn't the braided copper connect to the threaded fitting which Oscar points out, then through the fitting to the torch head, right?Poland308 wrote:Edit; so when you over heat a torch it often melts out the solder between the tubing and one of the ends, leaving you with a poor connection.
As a DIY type person I as originally thinking to check all connections for connectivity and/or clean/repair them.
Interesting video Oscar posted. Seems even on a gas hose it would be possible to snip the hose and re-attach it to the threaded fitting, or is that a difficult procedure?
Sorry for some many Qs, just trying to understand if in Mark's case it's possible to repair his torch? I realize we don't actually know what his problem is, but Richard shows what his is.
In regard to my question to Richard, I was originally thinking that current traveled up copper braid and attached to the threaded portion, but wanted to see how the threaded portion connected to the torch head. From both of your description that seems to be the case. Is that the segment that fails, as Josh mentions? (i.e., between the threaded portion and the torch head)
I am ANAL but IANAL...
That's exactly why I abandoned the project of building my own torch water cooler after exhausting a measly $100 and 10 hours of my life. Quickly realized it just wasn't worth the squeeze, and phoned up HTPOscar wrote: I'm sure it is possible to fix, but it reminds me of the guy on weldingweb. He desperately wanted to build his own alternator-based engine driven generator. So he could weld. I'll repeat that: so he could weld (!). You have to draw your own line as to just how far you want to go back down the welding evolutionary ladder before you spend a lifetime trying to re-invent the wheel and never actually get to the project you initially wanted to tackle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZENA-250-amp-1 ... SwWnFWBauL
Just for you Oscar. Can buy it and do a video review?
Just for you Oscar. Can buy it and do a video review?
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
Can you buy it? Sure. I have no problem with that.Poland308 wrote:https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZENA-250-amp-1 ... SwWnFWBauL
Just for you Oscar. Can buy it and do a video review?
- LtBadd
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TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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Thanks Richard, that does help. It looks solid though once it gets to the threaded connector as that's all conductive up to the torch head best I can tell, through the copper.
Is the weak link where the copper braid connects/crimps on the threaded connector? (your last pic)
Is the weak link where the copper braid connects/crimps on the threaded connector? (your last pic)
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
I would guess 12-10awg based on the relative size to his fingers.Oscar wrote:Oh, the electricity travels through the copper wire conductor inside the water hose that goes to the threaded fitting. The arc only emanates from the tungsten.TraditionalToolworks wrote:Ok, but you didn't actually answer what I was confused about.Oscar wrote:Water comes in through the the 1/4"-20 threaded fitting.
Water leaves the torch through one of the barb fittings.
Shielding gas enters the torch through the other remaining barb fittings.
Is the arc initiated through the gas? Doesn't there need to be some type of electrical connection for the arc?
1:53 into the video
Ytbq8viJPJ8
So yea, that looks to be anywhere from 12-16ga to my eyes.
I know he used the 16-14 crimp, but he mentions he wants a deep groove. Almost as if to say, 'don't use the crimp slot that matches wire size'.
If i ever burn up a cable i will be sure to open her up and check.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
- LtBadd
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Richard,
You better tell them how many years you have been welding full time, to experience so many breaks. Don't want folks thinking they fail every month.
You better tell them how many years you have been welding full time, to experience so many breaks. Don't want folks thinking they fail every month.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
That's why I love my HTP Arctic Chill cooler. Gives a nice, very loud beep at start up when I turn the welder on...actually a bit of a positive side effect of the low-flow alarm. If the brain doesn't hear that beep, it instinctively knows something is wrong, and has saved my torches more than once when I had turned the cooler off due to a torch swap.LtBadd wrote:Don't want to post such a thing, however I will say it's helpful to remember to turn on the cooler BEFORE making that 1st weld
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