This is the Kemppi parts breakdown of my watercooled torch. Its part in the grey box that I am replacing to the right side the current line comes in from the left and is then fed cooling water at the junction and makes it a nice compact set of three lines going to the torch. https://i.ibb.co/sgNPxQz...

Yeah I thought it was gas filled but of course its a liquid cooled current line which makes sense. Actually a pretty nice compact design by kemppi even though its old now. I wonder how they did their new line up of torches. I wouldnt mind purchasing a small straight aircooled torch of the new lineup...

Ok looked at my torch wiring a bit more and found that is the correct partnumber as once I cut the sheething back I found the connector about 1.8 meters back from the torch and that is indeed the part that has failed so hopefully this should be easy from here now I know the part number I need.

I don't know the machine but you need to check for continuity from the machine (plug/hardwire?) to the electrode (ie, the gun cable). Within the machine, the main electrical difference between MMA and TIG is a contactor. It might be the contactor that has failed. (Apologies if that is where you che...

OK so now on the phone to the kemppi reps here in NZ. One of them just tried to tell me (I guess its possible) that this kemppi main current line for the TTC 250 W torch is just as expensive as buying a completely new torch (obviously the newer style ones). This main line splits at the machine end w...

Yeah mma mode works perfectly.... It did this briefly to me the other day then was working fine so didint think much of it tried tig mode again still not working.... Im thinking I need to check my tig lead connections in the tig handpiece itself.... The button clearly works. EDIT: Wow I just tested ...

Hi, Just went to use my kemppi mls2300 that iv had for years and not getting an arc out of it. Hf start works and its arcing but no current is coming out of this thing and no errors. Checked connectors on front prob going to have to take a look inside now. Anyone had this problem and sorted it? I'll...

So yeah installed the board and solenoid and im away again. To my surprise the board they sent INCLUDED the display so I guess I hope I have a spare one now (hope it works with the newer circuit board) but that somewhat explains the price I guess. Looked like a few minor changes to the board just ca...

Dealer finally got in touch with me. Claimed the emails were going into spam folder...


421Euro later for the board + solenoid and ship and I might be back in business in a couple weeks.




Pretty miffed about it all but it is what is I guess.



Thanks for everyones help on here though.

^^ I did email HTP. He told actually told me to go through stel initially then in a second reply told me to go through the dealer I purchased the machine from. So im a bit baffled by all this. I bought my alloy torch off HTP after purchasing the machine so I really dont get it theres no dealers down...

Pic of the back. Need to remove the display?

https://i.imgur.com/FrQOuG5.jpg

Hi guys I have one of these machines same as a HTP pro pulse 200. The issue I have is a stuck open solenoid valve. And its NOT the valve itself. I can remove the wiring connector and turn the valve off and on by touching the terminal on the connector on the valve so that tells me straight away the v...

Double post..

This is pretty cool wish I had seen it earlier. I also wish the box was designed to pulse to 15khz! Heres something I found for everyone to read I thought it was quite interesting. https://www.ewm-group.com/en/component/rokdownloads/downloads/english/technical-papers/wig-welding/828-tig-direct-curre...

Buggers dont give details on whats its for... I havent bothered to ask though.

http://www.rapidwelding.com/dynamic/Dis ... ?c=9754141

Yep had a look at mine tonight. Im deffo going to cut another slot in that standard switch plug and use that in the footpedal input plug. The only difference that I can see between it and the footpedal plug is they've rotated the slot about one quarter of the way round. The pins are all numbered so ...

I pulled the red cover thingy off mine today and thought both plugs looked the same but was only looking at the pin out so I assume your probably right about the offset tang. I have a dremel and I dont like tangs so I think I can sort that. 8-) When theres a will not to pay Kemppi ridiculous amounts...

Ahh yes I forgot there were two plugs on this machine. Maybe just going with a micro switch is going to be the least hassle.

I guess if you really want to bypass the kemppi BS (and $$$) you just open it up and connect to the wires behind the plug and work out what they do.

Awesome thanks for the ideas I think i'll just go down to the local electronics store and try a 10k pot.

Thanks a bunch for that.

Do you reckon rapid welding or any other outfit would let us know what size the kemppi pots are?

Can anyone tell me which type CK steadygrip style trigger will work with my MLS2300 and if so which one out of the three to buy? http://www.ckworldwide.com/steady-grip%E2%84%A2.html Im guessing Kemppi use a different method to the three available types...? If I cant use that one can I just use a gen...

Thats sweet but I now wonder how im going to connect the water connectors. CK use the same type of silly screw connector on those. Why doesnt everybody use a quick connect on the water? It just seems silly not to imo??

Who did you buy the CK torch and adaptor through? Im looking at a couple of options. I think I might buy a CK micro torch due to its flexibility for stainless work and maybe persevere with the big 250W, the big kemppi torch considering its not a flex head isnt THAT bad to use its better than most ot...

Nice good purchase these are nice machines. The only thing I dont like about mine is the silly Kemppi torch that you need to buy special adaptors and that to change to an aftermarket torch. Im working on that atm. The TTC 250W torch thats on mine doesnt have a flex head which is kinda a pain at time...