I thought I'd throw this out there. I'm welding 3" .065 wall stainless with 1/16" tungsten & a #8 cup. After getting my settings and process down I needed to have my argon cylinders replaced. After I hooked them up I began work again and found my weld inside was dark in color, almost l...

Great to hear that you have improved your skills and interested to test new things :) Personally I don't like doing little circles on thing walled pipe. - It's slower - It easily create too much heat and you end up with concavity - It usually create rougher bead inside Do you have TIG-finger? It's ...

Is there a benefit to weaving on this thin wall stainless? Not weaving but you can do small circles, steady pull or right now I've been playing with some pulse ,2.5pps, 55amps (my maxstar 15O doesn't all peak and background adjustment it is set at 50% each way) I normally weld around ,45amps on .06...

Is there a benefit to weaving on this thin wall stainless?

Rick_H wrote:Are you making small circles or just a nice steady pull?

I'm using a steady pull, I worry small weaves or circles slow me down and increasing the heat in the metal.

I guess for me the most challenging part is knowing if I'm getting good penetration while running the weld. I'm trying to keep my travel speed as fast as possible while watching the puddle to make sure I don't leave it behind and trying to keep a tight arc with little torch angle. I'm using a #8 cup...

Good pics :) Indeed mostly these welds are made without filler, but sometimes it's needed. Just make sure that your filler won't get oxidized during welding. On your first picture you have a darker area on 6 o'clock. Is it from tacking without purge? Try to avoid blue color on HAZ. Very light yello...

Ah..the all mighty tri clover fitting. I weld those daily 316L stainless for Food Grade apps. Typically with a food grade job you would do a autogenous weld (no filler), full penetration with an argon back purge. Using filler is not ideal as you'll have too much reinforcement in the I'd of the pipi...

That looks great! Okay, I originally wanted to not use filler rod and wondered if an autogenous weld (i'v heard it called fusion weld?) would be legitimate but was worried it would leave a weak area where the two came together. Using the filler metal adds another factor that could cause problems in ...

Obviously I need more practice, then again I just started TIG 2 weeks ago. I have decent penetration but need it to be more consistent.

Great! Your advice was successful and much appreciated. Good penetration and controlled heat with the pulse. I'm only using a #8 cup so I'm running shorter beads but plan to pick up a larger cup tomorrow. Thanks guys!

Makus,
Thanks for the tips, my parts come in this afternoon so I'll play with the settings and see what works for me.

Markus, Thanks for you help, I think that gives me good direction. I know each machine runs a bit different but previously Otto mentioned an amp range near 35, with pulse would I need to bump the amps up a bit and is 20 hz a decent pulse? My machine only pulses up to 20 hz. I like the idea of using ...

Thanks for your help. I am using a number 8 cup, 1/16" 2% thoriated tungsten and have played with the use of .030 308L MIG wire. I don't have a lot of options for cooling but have tried wet rags wrapped around the pipe near the weld. As long as I get good penetration is a narrow weld bead okay?...

I've been tasked to weld 3" .065 wall Stainless 304 but have a hard time not overheating the metal. I can't lose the corrosion attributes of SS since this piping will be outside and used for a food grade lubricant. I'm using Lincoln Precision TIG 225 and purging the pipe with Argon. What advice...