I have the same welder... Mine will do that if I have the spool tension a little too tight. I back it off just a fuzz and it solves the problem.

Never had an issue with Autoset... mine works good.

-Bear

Thanks... I appreciate your help!

-Bear

Basically your plan 1... except I Mig brazed it with silicon bronze wire... I bolted the end piece of the guard to the lathe, then positioned the guard and held it in place while I brazed it with the mig. I then removed the guard and brazed the back. I had planned to tig braze in but it was in too a...

20191012_080212.jpg 20191012_080243.jpg Pics of the repaired guard... it turned out pretty good. Never try to match paint by memory... I knew that I would never get a match from a rattle can, but I think I could have come closer than this if I had taken a painted piece to the store with me... Oh, w...

Well... I just ran into another snag... the bolt holes where the guard mounts are not a standard size... they are tapped 5/16-20. I guess I'll have to make some screws before I attempt to repair the guard. -Bear Is it possible they're metric? 8mm is .314 and 5/16 is .3125. could be 8mmx1.00. It's n...

Well... I just ran into another snag... the bolt holes where the guard mounts are not a standard size... they are tapped 5/16-20.

I guess I'll have to make some screws before I attempt to repair the guard.

-Bear

OK so I’ve had a look. What we have here is a thin one hundred year old casting that’s been repaired a while back with an oxy brazing process. I think you need to minimise further heating cycles as much as possible, for this reason I think you should not heat to melt away the existing braze filler....

Pics haven't come through to my phone on Tapatalk. I'll have a look on the pc tonight. I'm interested in hearing your thoughts... I realized that my pics didn't show the thickness of the casting... it looks like it is about 1/2 inch thick, but is cast with a flange on the front... it is actually be...

I did not do the original repair... so I have no idea how it was done. It's no good the way it is, anyway, so I may clamp the short end in a vise and get it hot with the o/a and see if it can be bent... if it breaks, well, I guess I get to try plan B then... I'm just afraid I'm gonna 'fix' it to the...

20191007_120849.jpg 20191007_120843.jpg I am doing something of a re-refurbishment to an old lathe... it is a Hendey Tie- Bar 12x4 lathe that I just picked up off craigslist. The cast iron guard that goes around the bull gear was broken at some point in history. Someone has brazed it back together,...

Not an expert here, but most axles have a cast iron or cast steel center section and steel axle tubes. All of the trusses that I have seen are welded to the tubes only... (again, I'm not an expert, some may be welded to the center section also). I have built a couple of Ford 8.8 axles to put under J...

dave powelson wrote:

Poland308 wrote:I would pick tig over mig for any build up work.

Amen to using TIG, unless one wants to create even more work in the finishing after,
plus have a half azzed overlay coverage. 4 x 4 forums tend to give and show the worst
welding efforts.

I know thats right!

-Bear

No pics right now... its still assembled... The first thing I plan to do is check the ball joints and unit bearings... if any of them are bad, then there is no reason not to rebuild the entire knuckle assemblies and replace the knuckles at the same time. If everything else looks good, I will test to...

You can't just buy the brackets... they are part of the steering knuckle... This is a common problem with the Dana 30 and Dana 44 axles... and this is a common repair for the problem. Its not something that I came up with just trying to save a buck or two... this is the accepted way to repair these ...

Ok, thanks... still looking for recommendations...

Thanks -Bear

Ok, but I'm cheap... any filler recommendations?

-Bear

I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler... the front caliper brackets have some pretty bad wear areas on them where the brake pads and calipers slide against the brackets. The wear is approximately 1/16 to 3/32 inch deep. From what I am reading online, the brackets are forged steel... I'm looking for recommenda...

I currently have a Miller Dialarc 250 HF tig/stick welder, a Miller 211 mig, a Lincoln Weld-Pak HD flux core wire machine, and a Chicago Electric 40 amp plasma cutter... I also have 3 oxyfuel torch rigs, 2 are Victors, the other is a Smith, I think, (I acquired it as part of a bulk lot of welding eq...

I did this on my '97 TJ, I used my Millermatic 211 mig welder...

-bear

I'm new to this welding thing but yesterday I got my first lesson in how important it is to know what you have in your hand. So, I'm TIGing along, practicing with aluminum using 3/32 filler rods and 3/16 aluminum plate. Go to make a lap joint and just grab another rod and proceed to get all kinds o...

If it is a 6mmBR die, the decapping pin is gonna be a smaller diameter than a standard small pin... 7mm BR and 30BR may be also... be sure to measure the pin diameter before you order any...

It should be replaceable if it is a decent quality die... and replacement pins are cheap...

I'd say even with a pallet jack you may have issues moving something that heavy uphill... and if it gets away from you, its gonna go all the way to the botto whether you like it or not. As far as the 2x4s, thats a no-go... 2x4s will never support it and keep it sitting level. Actually, placing it di...

I disagree with the comment about staying away from belt driven machines... they are just as usable and reliable as any other type as long as they have been well maintained. I have a 14 1/2 inch South Bend... pretty much everything on it is adjustable to compensate for minor wear. Major wear I would...

If it were mine, I would try it... its no good the way it is, right? I would try and clamp a piece of aluminum to it as close to the weld as possible for a heat sink to keep as much heat out of the spring area as possible. Also, I would pick a filler wire material that can be blued to match the rest...