I run the same machine and used pure tungsten for ever. I was burning back the tip bad (learning curve being self taught) so I turned up the penetration to 9. The tip lasts longer (shiny ball) but they still deteriorate faster than I wanted. I tried 2% Lanth per watching Jody's testing and they seem...

There is a gasket at the seem . Watch your heat!!

I have similar dreams( let me get real;They are fantasies) at my shop.

I'm far from what I call expert and my boss tells me my welds are awesome also; I think not. From what I see in the pics is that you're using a grit type wheel on the material. I find that it can impregnate impurities causing issues with my welds and spits at my electrode sometimes. I've had bad ele...

Dang! Sorry I got back so late. You're probably right if nervous about Tigging it. I figured you were done by the time I posted. You could go after it just the same since the wood is out because you can get to both sides. That will allow you to grind the outsides flat again and still have the thickn...

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I'm sure you're done with this, but boats are all I get to weld on and red scotch brite roloc is all I use; an acetone wipe doesn't hurt. On the transom can be a bitch tho, with wood behind the weld.

It's not unweldable, just a pain in the ass. The corrosion goes deep in the pores and causes all kinds of problems, but I've welded hundreds if not thousands of corrosion holes in boats. Never thought I would encounter un-weldable aluminum in boat repair, but I will have to give this a try. Thanks f...

If you can grind it back and go over again, you can get rid of much of the porosity. I've had to weld more electrolysis than I care to. Sucks the big one.

Boats are all I ever "get" to weld on. I use these with great success. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/3- ... aQod55IN0A

I've tried to weld .050 with little success in the warping department. The app. I've dealt with is Pontoon boat play-pen replacement. What I've noticed is that there is a tremendous amount of stress in the sheet stock, and the SECOND the heat hits it, it warps. Haven't found a solution yet.

3/32 filler, get the puddle fast, and haul the mail. Try one size up in filler and see what happens.

Kent

There, I fixed it.

Went down that Rabbit hole one night and pissed away at least two hours. Got the "Gotta haves" out of my system.

By George I think he's got it !!


....and just so it doesn't go unsaid; make sure the motor is in the "up" position before backing.

Holy jumpin' Catfish!!

That job would give ANYONE fits. The wood in the transom is smoking. I've done many. On the top though, the paint wasn't buzzed far enough back. The coup de grass was the wind. The advise above is sound; stay away from Emery.

Welcome to the forum! Better suggestions will come soon from others, but from where I sit: Use 3/32 filler turn up the amps to about125 get a puddle fast and start moving. This is easier said than done when you have no muscle memory yet. When I started to TIG it was on Alum. Learning curve was very ...

From the Syncrowave 250 PDF manual. http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o353t_mil.pdf

2 Spark Gap
Normal spark gap is 0.008 in (0.203
mm).

The lower units I have encountered seem to be pretty "clean" as far as cast goes. All the props that come in to our shop get sent out. Balance and pitch are your biggest concern with props. I'd suggest you keep it in the boat for a spare and buy a new prop to run. Sounds like you got your ...

Much fuss in the Home-built world about "normalizing" all welds. I've never found a definitive, but with the weave on a small part, that is just what happened. Heat is fully soaked. A friend of mine said " if you get the torch out to normalize, why not just weld with it and be done?&q...

1/8th inch filler may help.

Many boats are 5000 series, the 4043 is good, but like Otto said, go up to a 3/32 electrode, Pure or Lanth.