The only thing I ever had any "teaching" on was TIG welding, when I was partnered up with a guy who couldn't fit. We traded skills. I taught myself everything else I know. (Not quite true, as I've used sources like Jody, and other information on the internet, but that's not the same as ha...

Oscar wrote:get a piece of scotch brite pad and wipe down the filler real good, then wipe it down with acetone. You'll be suprised how much crud comes of it.

scotch pad.. ok thanks

I looked everywhere on the forum and couldnt find. what is the scale to measure your posts so I too can be a weldmonger. :geek: It's a secret... ;) Under the current system, 500 posts achieves weldmonger status. I don't recall the breakdown for the other rankings, but I don't put much stock in it a...

Nope. I've seen them almost indistiguishable from a weld. Patience, practice, CLEAN X 3, and more patience. I can't advise you on the "how", though. Brazing is one place I'm still an oxy-fuel/flux fan, but my stuff does not have to look good, only meet liquid oxygen service requirements u...

I looked everywhere on the forum and couldnt find. what is the scale to measure your posts so I too can be a weldmonger.

this is tig welded in ac on mild steel. the bead looks very bad. is this the best it gets?

Otto Nobedder wrote:I'm going to HAVE to start a thread on my next aluminum repair.

The "surgical clean" idea is growing old and wearing thin.

Steve S

ok got it thanks

My gut reaction is to dress the joint down (nearly through) with a hard stone in your grinder (aluminum specific), dress it with a file, and put a fresh cap on it. Flap-wheels will do a fine job, if you use a fresh one and work it gently. Too much pressure, and the binders that hold the abrasive to...

I'm getting a little porosity on the outside corner joints. i used a flap disc to grind smooth. i believe that maybe i have embedded something in the material. how can i fix?

Number1weldingfan wrote:My name is Dennis. I am restarting in the welding industry after fifteen years. What is the possibilities of companies hiring a new school grad with no experience versus welder a with experience but got laid off?

welcome to the forum. its a great sight here. texas is in big demand for welders

this is the color is was looking for. this was my first one. I have a few more and they came out much brighter. thanks for all you help guys

olcarguy wrote:In one way or another we all weld for beer, hamburgers and steak. Just depends how you look at your paycheck.

that is something a car dawg would say. that's a good one im gonna tell my sales people that. lets see if it works

Why would you try it??? What material where you attempting to weld? just testing it out. it was mild steel Now you know, and you won't forget. :D I learned it the same way. Heat flows toward the positive conductor. In this case, it went from the steel into your tungsten. Generalizations... The torc...

first time doing this and very disappointed. put the stinger on the positive side and the ground on the negative side and as soon as i stomped the pedal my tungsten balled up huge. not only that smoked my glass lens and cracked it. what did i do wrong? Why would you try it??? What material where yo...

MinnesotaDave wrote:DC+ is only used for very thin aluminum.
The tungsten can't take that kind of heat - for example, 1/8" tungsten only handles about 40 amps on DC+
But on DC- it handles hundreds of amps.

thanks that's great info

first time doing this and very disappointed.
put the stinger on the positive side and the ground on the negative side
and as soon as i stomped the pedal my tungsten balled up huge. not only that smoked my glass lens and cracked it.
what did i do wrong?

Superiorwelding wrote:You have to at least get us a picture to reward our efforts.
-Jonathan

i will today thanks

dropped down to 3\32 bronze rod and the color came right out. i guess it took less heat to melt. heck i don't know. 93 amps on dc 17 cfh 3\32 filler rod 1\8 tungsten red band. wire brush clean up, and came super nice. well at least for my standards.

Going back and re-reading all posts I came up with a few questions to be asked/answered. It is obvious that the OP has a gas flow issue. Why is the "gold color" wanted? Are you in fact seeing and referring to the gold straw color on SS Tig welds and not mild steel? Could one problem be th...

im trying not to start a puddle in order not to get it too hot so that I can get that color. This statement of yours is terrible. Welding require liquid steel - make a puddle and weld properly. i understand creating the molten puddle. it just threw me off when i saw the lamp post video jody posted....

paul_s wrote:Welcome to the forum.

thanks

Welcome to the site. 1/8 steel weld on DC- and run 125-140 amps. Use regular steel filler rod ER70s-2 No cleaning with wire brush, just polishes the mill scale. Grind down to bright metal. Start a puddle immediately, under 3 seconds for aluminum, about 1 second for stainless. Used the puddle to mel...

If your getting porosity with TIG it's usually a cleaning issue or a gas issue. Make sure your base metal/filler is nice and dry to. Might try preheating the base metal as well to make sure you drive off any moisture. Other than that be sure your torch angle isn't too step or something isn't blowin...

MinnesotaDave wrote:20 degree tip is not necessary for 1/8" metal.
Here is some background on tip profile.

those are bad ass graphs thanks

Welcome to the site. 1/8 steel weld on DC- and run 125-140 amps. Use regular steel filler rod ER70s-2 No cleaning with wire brush, just polishes the mill scale. Grind down to bright metal. Start a puddle immediately, under 3 seconds for aluminum, about 1 second for stainless. Used the puddle to mel...