Good questions. I had a Miller Syncro250 and have been using a Everlast 250ex, with cooler, for a year or so. There is some pretty good info available on there forum. Based on that information and my preferences, I changed something straight away. I installed ck20 torch. created my own cooling plumb...

+1 for Otto, advice I agree with. I would add one other thought.

Contamination in the weld can be an issue. Especially if you cannot clean the inside. It can bubble up through the weld. Point is the repair, in this case, does not need to be as thick as the parent material.

Good luck.

+1 Thank you

I agree with the others; good enough to go. Especially C, D, and H. Nice job on the back fill. I do have a couple of suggestions which you may want to try. My setup is not exactly the same, but I do stainless exhaust work with a Everlast 250ex with a wp20 water cooled torch. It looks to me like the ...

To my knowledge, no liquid cleaner, except diluted sulfuric acid (available from your welding supply store), will clean oxide from aluminum. Acetone, alcohol, and thinner will remove oils. Acetone and alcohol are better, thinner is mineral spirits and not as highly refined as the other two.

I would try reducing the balance to about 15%, increasing the frequency to about 2 o'clock, and dropping the amperage to about 75. Move at a fairly quick rate. Try to stay close to your work, less than 4mm (1/8"). If the puddle start getting to wide, stop and let it cool - blow air throughout t...

+1 for Mick, I agree.

On .025 aluminum - that is pretty good. Especially your later runs. I would try dipping the filler more frequently, that is, stacking the "dimes" tighter. That is my preference; I build some aluminum automotive fluid tanks which should not leak. On the etching width; it looks normal to me ...

Good to know. Thank you

I agree with RIS, watch the heat. No more than what you need. And, don't go slow; get a puddle and go. How thick is the base material? I would assume from your amps, about 0.80" to 0.100". Also, are you back purging or using Solar Flux on the inside/backside? Don't lift away from your work...

I use Solar Flux B on stainless exhaust work with good results. First, if it is bench work, like headers, I would back purge. But, on the header to rear of the car - typically 3" stainless, long pieces, it can be difficult to back purge. I mix the flux with Heet to form a paste, clean the stain...

Just setup a 250 ex with a CK200 torch. Got the 1/2" DINSE and CK200 from Arc-zone. Using the Everlast cooler. It works fine; no problems so far. I had a bunch of WP20 torch consumables and lenses; did not want them to go to waste. They all interchange with the CK torches. And, I like the much ...

If the stainless steel job is difficult to purge, I have used a black powdered flex (forget the name and I am not at the shop - your welding supplier can tell you) that you mix with Heet (or alcohol) to form a paste. Put it on the inside of the joints just before setup. Has worked well for me on cus...