everything depends on the state you live/work in, and what the insurance company has to say about it. my last job i certified on 2" s80 carbon and ss tig, and carbon stick. i was able to weld from 3/4" on up. the funny thing is the company i worked and tested for didnt have a CWI. they tes...

i would turn the machine OFF, load a rod on the stinger and figure out what position you can use without your hood on. if you have to bring the peice down or step on a stool or something and put your head right at the end of the test peice and run the rod right at your face. just figure out what is ...

why is the hell would he tell you to run a 1 pass cap on a 4" 6G? the dumbass is smoken some shit. i run 3 to 5 beads on a 2" S 80. but mostly just 3 and no less than that as well. I really hate when CWI's have never picked up a stinger or done any real welding, then try and tell a welder ...

well i'm not a big fan of 6013, i wont use it. the 7018AC does run a little different than DC, but i've never had a problem runniing it on a vert. are you running stringers of weaving? if weaving i always use a tight z. which is just going from side to side with a mini pause on the sides. dont pause...

sorry, i figured the way they worded it it was a mig stainless. but its a tig. i've been practicing on 160 2" mild steel. i have to do a stick mild, a tig mild, and a tig stainless. i didnt think 2 years of being down would throw me off so much, but i was wrong. thankfully shit worked out to wh...

i changed the bottle, the wire, the tips, blew out the hose to make sure it wasnt that. the reg is good. i thought it might be a crack or hole in a hose, but i checked them all and they were good. i run copper coated wire, er70s6, .030. i also changed out the liner, diffuser, and cup. i'm guessing t...

i've checked everything i can think of. the gas is fine, the metal is always cleaned prior to welding. soemone told me once it would be an electrical problem, but it didnt sound right to me either, but i just cant figure it out. i've been using my 110 lincoln fluxcore for all my welding because i ca...

first off take that 6013 and throw it away. i only use that shit to make small hooks out of...lol.... if your running A\C, get some 6011 and 7018AC. if your using D\C, get some 6010 and 7018 and run reverse polarity. that would be the stinger lead hooked up to the positive side. it also refered as D...

you aint shittin there..... they have to come up with something to earn that money....lol

i know this is late but oh well. the side that the slicer is on is just in the begining stages and doesnt conform with fda rules. there are plenty more processes the beets will go through with metal detecter and magnets to catch anything. i worked at a sugar plant for 10 years so i know what hes tal...

i have a millermatic 120. its an older guy and 230v. i stated having problems with alot of porosity in the welds. i changed bottles, hoses, everything i could think of. i havnt used it in a while because of this. but it would weld great, then out of no where would weld like shit. i made sure the gas...

i bought a lincoln 100hd a couple years back. it was brand new in the box and i almost passed because it was only flux core. at the time it was a $500 welder, and i got it and a nib jigsaw for $125. at the time i figured i was going to sell the welder and keep the saw. i have to say that that is the...

i'm taking a 6g 2" mig test hopefully soon. i'm mostly a tig and stick guy. which is good cuz i'm foing the same test with those as well. but wondering what the volts and wire speed should be. i'm thinking 16 or 17V with about 165ipm. i know stainless runs hotter and you have to use less amps, ...

i'm taking a 6g 2" mig test hopefully soon. i'm mostly a tig and stick guy. which is good cuz i'm foing the same test with those as well. but wondering what the volts and wire speed should be. i'm thinking 16 or 17V with about 165ipm. i know stainless runs hotter and you have to use less amps, ...

with 7018 and stacking beads you really dont need to manipulate the rod. just rest your hand on the other hand and take it slow. keep the tight arc and just stay with it. its not something you can learn over night. once you get the feeling of running the beads while keeping the tight arc in a flat p...

when i tested for my last job it was a stainless tig root with 308 and stick out with 308. i think they are mostly for employment testing so they dont have to make you do two test. but i can see the benifits for doing a tig root with a 7018 stick out. no slag or porosity in the root. i also know the...

well i'm not sure about doing 7018 on stainless, but as far as a tig root and stick out its for the quality of the tig without worrieing about slag in the root, and then its a time and money factor with the stick. i guess i didnt read your question right first. although i've never done this or would...

this is what i've done in the past. but the pipes together with a 1\16 to a 3\32 gap, tack them, then run a grinder all the way around till its about 16th thin, then run 308, as close to 90 degrees as you can get it. i've even butted them without a gap and ground it paper thin. you'll know by the ke...

if your running a weave, turn your amps down, if running stringers you can raise them a bit. use reverse polarity. if your running a weave and notice your rod getting real hot or your slad is looking real drippy, pull back and stop, then restart after the slag starts to cool a bit. another thing is ...

309 has a closer carbon content to mild steel.

are you sure its aluminum your trying to weld? looks can be deceiving? even with the rod?

i'm taking a 6g 2" mig test probable tuesday. i'm mostly a tig and stick guy. which is good cuz i'm foing the same test with those as well. but wondering what the volts and wire speed should be. i'm thinking 16 or 17V with about 165ipm. i know stainless runs hotter and you have to use less amps...