Boc seems to have the same modus operandi all over the world. They are losing out to swap and go cylinders here in Australia, so that's a good thing.

I'd never considered that. Always seem to run out completely.

Aren't you doing yourself out of money by not using everything up?

That's it. If you are concerned, just do some practice with the last little bit.

Go until you get porosity. Just make sure it's not on a Sunday or after hours.

I feel that you have porosity in your first pass as well. This is evident in the stops that bubble up. The second pass just let's the horror out. Tig porosity is a horrible thing that we all fear and is almost impossible to get rid of once you have it. My suspicion is that you have too long a stick ...

Rusty Steel cuts heaps better than brand new mill scale. The rust is the starting point of the cutting process.

When trying to find a nice setting, turn the wire down until it hisses. At this point, you won't have enough "punch" to get root penetration. Now slowly increase the wire speed and listen to the noise. It should be a combination of hiss /crackle /even cloth tearing. If you get to a full on...

CLEAN and when you think it's clean enough, clean it again and wipe it with acetone or some type cleaning solvent. Make sure brake lines and fuel lines are not around or well protected. Not sure how this effects the puddle succumbing to gravity? Ultra clean material allows you get the puddle formed...

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but if you have an inverter welder, green (pure) tungsten isn't the best option. Try a 2% lanthanated one. Pure is better suited to big old transformer machines. If you have the transformer, I'm not sure what's going on.

Impatient customers would have to take what they can get. So they would get the helicoil.

It's more than likely a new item. Imagine paying a premium for a new part and then finding a quick fix slapped on it to cover a mistake. I would not be happy.

His flight to Mars, obviously.

In actual fact, I was wishing him good luck in finding a good machine from a reputable supplier. Sorry for not making it clear.

Good luck.

Have heard good things about this company
https://weldingstore.tokentools.com.au/ ... ig-welder/

Also, cebora, weldmax, Olympic from wa welding supplies,

Im using a United Alloys supercast rod designed for cast iron, should I be using a Ni-55 or Ni-99 instead? I have 99X maintenance rod. I don't believe you are on the wrong track with the filler metal selection. Just a matter of process. With 99 percent nickel, you can actually do what's called touc...

Cost versus rewards. Now it's for you pull out of the scrap and practice on.

It's called buttering. For obvious reasons. Like buttering bread. Do a run of each of the parts before hand with a high nickel filler and then join the pieces as per requirement. It's just that the nickel layer provides a crack resistant area. Good luck

100 percent pure for aluminium only

Also, on the plus side, your electrode is called super tit. Which is always good.

It'd not your fault. It's very difficult to get fusion into the very tight gap in a pipe to plate weld. You can grind a bit off the pipe to open up the gap, and a little off the under side to drop it down a bit. You can also put in a little bit of rod in the gap and weld that into the joint.

Hi, I'm from Bendigo. Funny who you meet on international forums.

It may not mean much, but 309 isn't the correct filler for that job. It's specifically designed for welding mild steel to stainless steel.

Bandsaw would be the most versatile.

I have a washer trolley for my welder cart. It's not to bad, but I don't have to go out of the shed